[Installing GC Camber Plates using a Template]

I think that might actually be one of the cleanist installs I've seen.

 

Very clean indeed! Nice work.

[Bought a used MS-I box that has minor damage, need advice]

Jeremy,

 

Thanks so much for your time, patience and persistence. We owe you a ride when the car is finished, and of course, some beers!

 

-Ryan

 

 

 

Jeremy has helped me out a lot looking into this for me and getting this thing up and running. I owe all you guys a lot of thanks.

[Looking For Advice on a Camshaft]

A slight bump to this thread...

 

BRAPP, when will we see this "very custom" head you speak of?

 

 

 

 

The intake manifold itself is the biggest red flag I see, especially when looking at your torque curve.

 

Your torque curve is indicative of typical OE L-6 EFI intakes. Keep in mind that the OE EFI intakes, ALL of them, have a runner cross sectional area that is only 53% the cross sectional area of a 280-Z intake valve! You can see the bottle neck here.

 

Now there are couple/few members that have been able to produce torque curves biased more towards the upper end of the RPM band with the OE EFI intake, but most if not all of those have some form of modification for enhanced flow, and those examples are the exception, not the rule.

Once you swap out to different intake, whether it be an SU intake modified for EFI, a custom scratch built intake, or even the 4bbl intake set up for EFI, with everything else you have, just retune the MS for optimum power, your torque curve will be much more robust above 3600 RPM which means your HP figure will be much higher, if not being a larger number than your torque figure!

 

Regarding cams. For Turbo L-6 engines, cams are still in the magical black art realm. With what little documented development regarding Turbonic L series cams, it seems everyone has an opinion on what lobe specs work, many have had a custom cam ground, and as far as I can tell, pretty much all of these have worked successfully for that particular application! Even David Vizard talks about a wild beyond belief cam profile with NO overlap that produced over 1000 HP on street driven SBC! We have members here that have made great power and run phenomenal ¼ mile times with the Z-gad grind. Garrett has ran low 11’s in his Turbo L-6 powered street 280-Z car with the stock Turbo cam and Thagard intake manifold! Another credible source prefers a particular stock N/A grind on performance Turbo L-6’s!

 

If it were an N/A, Supercharged, or Nitrous charged L-6, or even an SBC, I feel comfortable with coming up with cam specs for those application as the variables involved are pretty consistent and fairly well known. Make it a Turbo and with the continually changing intake to exhaust pressure ratios involved, the optimum intake and exhaust valve event timing now is going to be totally different, and depending on the always changing int-exh pressure ratios within the RPM range, throw in differing intake and exhaust Turbo housing designs, different turbine and intake impellor designs, just slightly changing the cam specs, lobe separation angle, etc, will alter the intake to exhaust pressure ratios again therefore requiring a different cam lobe profile for optimum performance. You can see how this becomes a viscous cycle, akin to a dog chasing his tail….

 

I will offer this tidbit of advice, first time mentioned publicly anywhere regarding Turbo L-6 camshafts. I keep in touch with Rebello Racing on a semi regular basis. In those talks with the owner, the discussion of L-series heads is always the core topic. Being as he has probably more L-6 dyno time than anyone in the country, I personally put a lot of faith in his opinion regarding what does and does not work on the L-6. Regardless of the absolute numbers his dyno declares, it is within those numbers of what combo produces more and most consistently that I’m interested in. In his playing and tinkering with the Turbo L-6’s on the Dyno, he has developed an affinity for one of the stock N/A L-6 cams. Which one? Well, I am not at liberty to divulge, lets just say, he prefers it over the stock Turbo grind and even the other aftermarket Turbo grinds he has tested. (we are currently building a very custom P-90 head for a Turbo application, with 1mm oversize Ferrea exhaust valves and one of these cams with Rebello springs, which will be up for sale, very soon…)

 

I short, I recommend you leave the cam alone and spend your money/time on an intake manifold. Then, if you are not satisfied, look at a different cam, possibly a stock N/A Cam...

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

[Rota RB/RB-R, 4x114.3, 17", Z-Offset Wheels]

Someone please post a picture of a set mounted with tires. I just sent my money off and wanna see what they look like mounted.

 

Thanks,

Stewart

 

 

Check out Myron's car: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135728

 

I have not weighed them, but I believe they are around 19lbs...I'll try to get a close number (read: crappy bathroom scale) for the 9.5 and 9 tonight.

[My car is finally back on the road!]

What metal stock did you use for your spreader plates? I'm thinking of trying to add some structural pieces much like yours and am wondering what is the best course of action. I currently have some 1.5 .120 DOM sitting around just itching to go to good use ...

 

Also, how are you mounting your radiator now? Any other pics?

 

 

 

I've eliminated most of the bushings and replaced them with metal heim joints. On top of that i'm running 300 Fr & 325 Rr springs. Arent you using all the stock rubber bushings? you do the math...

 

This made all the difference though.

 

We should set up a socal track day in the fall. I know SR240Z would be interested as well.

[Project Datsun 810 has begun]

Joe,

 

Glad to see you held onto the 810! Let me know if you need some wrenching help...I've been meaning to get up your way and check out the 240 for a while.

 

So any chance she'll be ready for showing at ye ol Burger King out my way?

 

-Ryan

[L28 NA with F54+P90 and original engine...?]

Word of note, my 72 came with an "ATK" crate L28 (P90A F54) ....original owner had replaced the L24 when it hit 170K miles.

 

It definetly has some solid compression for a N/A setup....with 70K miles it puts about 180-190psi per cylinder and could get a otherwise stock SU'd 240 to mid 14's. I have never opened it up to look at pistons though.

[Compression Testing L28ET - Out of car]

Very good point, thank you sirs!

[Compression Testing L28ET - Out of car]

Anybody here have some good ideas for compression testing an L28 while it's out of the car?

 

I removed mine from a non-running donor last week, and wanted to check the general health before deciding which direction to go with it. Problem is that I can't get a flywheel + starter to fit on the motor while it's on my engine stand. Could turn it over with a 27mm on an impact, but figured that might hurt things?

 

Any ideas/thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

Happy Holidays

[Fusible Link alternatives...]

Hey Guys,

 

I searched around, but didn't find anything specific....

Originally, I smoked my fusible link from the starter to the main hot lead. I cleaned all my connections and replaced the link with one from my parts car....and then the Ammeter finally shorted and blew up, and fryed another fusible link.

 

So now, I have removed my Ammeter from the path completely and am in search of a quick fusible link replacement, as I won't be able to get one before this weekend.

Would a 30amp inline fuse be a decent replacement for the original? I don't have any "slow blow" fuses, but I have some regular 30amps and one barrel 60amp. I don't want screw anything up just assuming. My car is a 72 240z....all electrical is stock.

Any help or advice is much appreciated!

 

-Ryan

[How do I check my ampmeter?]

Corrosion in my fusible link connector (starter to main hot lead) caused my 240 to die a few weeks back, which in turn smoked my AMP gauge. Weird thing is, the gauge still works! I cleaned out all connections under the hood and replaced my fusible link....cranked the car and the AMP readings look bouncy and "normal". I'm wondering if I need to pull the dash and give the AMP meter the axe! Thoughts anybody?

 

 

 

 

My advice is to ditch the amp gage. The OE shunting resistor across it (in the 240Z) is prone to burn out, and then the milliamp-range meter movement gets the full brunt of the load across the gage terminals and promptly goes up in smoke. Then many parts of your electrical system go dead.

 

Simply remove the lugs from the studs on the gage, and bolt them together with a good sized bolt. If you do this, make sure to use several

layers of heat shrink tubing over the bolted connection, and mount the wires near the splice to something so it doesn't flop around. If you leave the gage in, but not working, you can just put both lugs/wires on one of the studs to get around all that.

[Tow Hook - Your input needed]

Hey guys,

 

I recently had to have my 240z towed (via flatbed) which required removing my fiberglass MSA airdam to reach the stock tow location.

 

I'm looking to fab up a 1/4" thick - flat tow hook that extends out beyond the front air dam....possibly through it. Has anybody here done something similar? Keeping in mind, I want to have the ability to flat tow at the track if something breaks....also, are there any materials you used or reinforcements made to avoid screwing up the frame rails?

 

Thanks,

 

Ryan