Mobious9

thats likely, im to the point where starting all over and taking it slow this time is my best option haha

I got this far today before i realized the chain had slack and may have jumped a tooth. Now im trying to pull the front cover with out having to pull the head again after its been torqued on.

... I put everything back on and torqued the head back on, everything lined up perfectly except i couldn't get the cam sprocket over the dowel. which leads me to believe i jumped a tooth, so ive been working on removing all the bolts on the cover. Can i take it off with the head on?? talk about leaning haha after this i'll probably be able to do this with my eyes closed haha

thanks lol i was hoping I'd be able to slap this thing together tomorrow and it run fine again. As you guys can see, Im doing everything i can to avoid taking more stuff off with my limited knowledge BUT it looks like there's no other way haha SO CLOSE!

Thanks JSM and Stretchnuts, that clears things up with the cam because at first I had the number one lobe pointing straight up and both valves were close. ( And i was assuming that was TDC) Your photo was helpful to because the FSM has no good illustrations. I also repositioned the distributor at TDC SO the stage is set but i had one last question before i go torquing everything back together. Why are the #2 small valve and #3 big valve open?? while everything is at TDC, or are they supposed to be open?

Thanks for all the help guys, this where i am now.. I have the block at TDC and the lower timing notch at zero With that out of the way, I got my head back and reinstalled the cam and sprocket. I need to know if this is correct or not, does everything look good? Are the #4 and #5 valves supposed to be the only ones open at TDC? I put the rocker arms back on first, then installed the cam and pedestals but have not torqued them yet. thanks everyone!

@ Macambra, can all this be done while the black is in the car? I've been following haynes and FSM's but their both really jumpy. So radiator, fan and crank pully comes out, then i should be able to take the front plate off.

NICE!! this is good news, so make sure BOTH #1 valves are closed on the head and the #1 cylinder is TDC.... seems simple enough haha

thanks, I have a feeling I'm heading in the same direction if im not careful but it might be unavoidable. I keep hearing the same words "you might as well replace ..." since im down there haha. more work

Hey everyone, I'm putting my engine back together and I want to make sure Im going to go about this the right way. Heres the story till this point.. I bought this blue 83 5spd with a blown head gasket, i managed to get it to run before taring it doing to cycle through and change the bad fluids. The jack-leg i bought it from had no thermostat or cylinder head temp sensor in it and drove it hot. The blue one has 258,000 miles on it. The primed auto 82 was my daily driver until i drove it into a ditch during a tornado we had in north carolina. It flooded out and now it not working. Just my luck haha. That car had 170,000 miles on it. This is where i am so far... I decided to rip anything that was good left in the grey car and put it in the blue one, which was nothing. Either way, a head needed to be decked and put on the blue car so i opted for the one with less miles (primed flooded car) and i sent the head off to get cleaned, decked, and valve stems replaced. Well the head it done, but this is where it gets kinda sticky.. The head on the primed car is going on the blue car,,, but when i to the original head off the blue car the block looked like this... Simply put, the block and new head do not match and neither are at top dead center. So what exactly do I do to get everything aligned and running good? short of taking off the front plate if i dont have to. Thanks! and Sorry for the length i wanted to put in as much detail as possible.

yea this one has been sitting. thanks guys I'll deffenitly try those things and see if i can get the breaks to work.

Setting the stage: Hey guys, I got my hands on a near mint 83 NA 5spd coupe that had been sitting for about 2 years. I was told the car had a blown head gasket, but i managed to get to car to start up and run fine. The problem: the break pedal wont budge an inch. I can press it as had as i can but it wont budge AT ALL. There is fluid in the revisor and i even tried when the car was running just in case but nothing. Question: Could it be the break booster it gone? im not sure the breaks could be locked up because i rolled it back to my apartment on campus. Anyone have any good ideas? Thanks alot!

will the driveshaft out of an 82 MANUAL coupe fit in an 82 AUTOMATIC coupe???? im in Raleigh, North Carolina and i ripped one of the joints out to the point where it damaged the yoke, and i cant seem to find any but 5spd shafts. HELP both cars are no-turbo

well the linkage did have some play in it. I have no clue how to fix it though short of replacing it.

Thanks JM, your right the ebreak might be getting stuck because the rear right caliper dosnt work. Jsm lol I tried that for a while but I deliver pizzas and it got annoying. I guess ill go for fixing the caliper.

Yea i've checked the linkages, the bars coming from the shifter to the trans did seem to be a little lose, but then again they were connected with cotter pins so i expected a little play. I've tried lubing the ebreak cable but it still seems to lock up. I can manually open and close the calipers but when i pull the ebreak, and it locks, i have to go under the car and tap the caliper open. alot of work to park lol. And that trans sounds awesome but im way out here on the east coast, North carolina. Thanks for the insight man

Hey everyone, To make a long story short, my Auto trans goes into gear and drives but the shifter wont go into park. So im thinking i need to rebuild the trans or get a working emergency break cable because mine will lock the breaks but will not release. I cant afford anything new off the net because im a college student on a budget, so i was hoping someone would have either one of these items collecting dust willing to sell for a decent price. I have a couple buddies in the local community college automotive program that can install it all for me. Thank god for who ya know lol. I was looking for: Rear right caliper Emergency break cable (coupe not 2+2) or anything that would make up an decent auto trans rebuild and might get the shifter back into park Thanks a lot everyone.

Hey everyone, It's been a while since i've had any problems with my 82, but of'course, now somethings up. I think my automatic trans is going out or a shift linkage problem. A couple weeks ago i was driving and when i went to park, i slid the shifter into park and nothing happened. It didn't go into park until i pushed the shifter forward forcefully a little more. NOW, the shifter will not click in any gear slot, but the car will still go into all the gears minus park, and i can drive it in the drive gear fine but its almost like neutral has taken over the drive slot. anyone got any ideas on this matter? thanks!

Guess i got to get ah book. you guys are right the book should help, i guess wish i could get my hands on the shop manual cant find those anywhere.

OK thanks, but what am i supposed to listen for, nothing? or what do they sound like when their fireing properly. What is the leak down test? I pulled each plug about the week after i popped them in to check the gap and i found that they were sult black, so what dose that mean? i guess and injector problem is better then not knowing, i hope replacing them isnt to hard so i can avoid the machanic ya'no.

Well, im pretty sure im getting spark, i did that test where you take the lead plug, try to start the car while placing the plug agenist the valve cover. You can see a purple-bluish spark gap between the two, i dont no if that means it was running rich or not. As far as the pressure, i havent checked that out yet. But when i turnning the pump on and off a couple of times you can smell fuel in the front where the engine is. I guess because i may have flooded it, i dont know. What i do know is, i got the replacement fuel pump made by Master from autozone, they said it was rated up to 90psi. The old one i had still works, its just i thought the car wasnt getting enough fuel causeing it to sputter and shut off. This only happened when the car got hot, like in the afternoon. It hardly never happened in the morning where the temp outside was around 50-60. Now the funny things is, i thought it was vapor lock too, even though i dont no what the symptoms are, i heard that 280's were good for getting vapor lock in the injectors. I guess thats why they designed that fan on the engine over the intake. But while im talking about the fan, one time i shut the car off and the fan kept going for about 30mins. that was the first and last time that has ever happened. i dont no if thats what its supposed to do or not, i have no clue. The car usely gives me trouble when its hot. but i still dont no why, if it was vapor lock, the car refuses to start? What tha hell is going on!

(this may take a while) I bought my 83 280zx na 2+2 about a month ago. It ran fine, i drove it daily. It has about 208 thousand miles on it and was "re-built" at 150. the guy i bought it from just had it sittin in his yard. 500 bucks, couldnt complain So i notice a small fuel leak coming from one of the hoses on the fuel pump underneith , i ended up replacing the whole thing. To make a long story short,(whick is still long) the car used to idle down to REALLY low rmps when in drive sitting at a light. This would also happen sometimes when she was running for about 15-20 minutes in the drive way in park. The car would idle down, and when i went to give it some gas, it would sputter really hard then come to. but this would happen often, over and over. If the car was sitting still running or at a light, and i went to give it gas the car might, well eventually, sputter and then shut completely off after a coupl times. So you see y i may have thought it was the fuel pump. Well it kept doing that, so the next couple of things i fixed were the:fuel pressure regulator, Fuel fillter, distrubitor cap and button, msd blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm cables, ngk plugs,EGR, air fillter(tune up)basicly The sad and confusing then is, after all this is done, i go to start it up, it starts right up and runs better than ever. i take her around the block, acceleration is good so i take it up to high rpms, everythings good. but when returning to low rpms then stopping at a light she starts to drag again. luckly i was around the corrner because it sputtered and dragged right into my driveway. I turn it off then on to let it run, it sounded almost lik the fireing order was off by lik one or two,but it wasnt because i checked lik 6 times. then it finally shuts off. and i havent been able to crank her sence, about a week. i dont think its the starter because the crank and belts are moving... So basicly before i fork out the money to have it towed and then looked at by a machanic that may have never touched one of these before, i was wondering if one of you guys, who no damn near everthing about these cars could help out. i didnt want to post this anywhere where it would become an eyesore but i had to get the word out please help someone thanks

aw man.. that freekin sucks thanks alot for lookin that up man, i guess i'll have a better chance looking around ah junk yard than on the internet.

thanks i hope they carry vinyl for the spare tire are

thanks guys. being 17 and not knowing anything about these cars really is a down fall ya'no. i should be able to find a replacement hose at autozone