mattyice
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Posts posted by mattyice
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I really hope you don't have longevity issues with all of those, but I fear you will.
with the bondo glass and a thin layer of bondo to thin it out i dont see many inssues with that as long as there isnt a lot of flex on those body panels...that is similar to how i have molded spoilers onto trunks instead of bondo glass though i just used fiberglass fabric then smooth with a very thin layer of bondo
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There's a 10mm deep pipe that goes into the head. It's a tight fit with the hole and uses regular silicone sealant.
I don't have any experience with E85, as we don't have it in Japan. However, with gasoline up to 600 I don't even mess with the quench pads. Over that and you may take just the intake side. Mid 6's with E85 and I seriously doubt you'd need to take anything out. Alcohol loves compression and boost.
As far as the exact amount of power and efficiency loss with removing the pads, I don't have an exact #, but let's say it's considerable. I tell people that removing both pads is a max power drag mod. The pads do more than increase compression and contribute to inert effects. They add to chamber turbulance and increase burn efficiency. It's a trade off. You give up efficiency and response to be able to make the big numbers. But if you don't really need to remove them for 600hp, you certainly wouldn't need to remove them with E85. The GT500 engiens I've seen have the intake side removed, but they're not running E85. That could also be done to unshroud the valves and has nothing to do with knock...
With Japanese Esso high-octane fuel and good fuel trimming, I can run 35 degrees of advance at WOT without pulling any timing until around 6-7psi. Without the pads I don't start pulling timing until around 10psi. Too-retarded timing makes for very high EGT's and will burn thins up, as well. I'm a big fan of efficiency in street motors, so as a rule, if I have to pull more than 15 degrees or drop below 11.5 AFR, I throw in the towel and look elsewhere like lowering compression or octane improvement.
i must say that you are doing an awesome thing by posting all of the info you have! im sure most of us cant say thanks enough for what you have took the time to post here!
so if im reading the above correct that once you would get above 600-650 HP only maybe the intake quench pad would need to be removed? what would be a power level to remove the quench pad/pads? and would it be beneficial to maybe leave them to slightly remove them/round off the edge or is it an all there or nothing situation with them at the powerlevels they should be removed?
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Just looking to see if there are any 240Z's in NE Ohio or the surrounding area...looking for one with a straight body and paint ready for a swap...trying to stay around or below 2000.
Thanks in advance
Matt
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the only reason a turbo is a muffling device is because it creates back pressure and offers a restriction in the exhaust...and incorrect about the SRT-4...its reason for not needing mufflers came from the small diameter exhaust, 2 resonators, and the cat...all of that was enough to keep exhaust quite and dont try and argue i have been an SRT-4 owner since 2004 and know the car and engine like the back of my hand, the most respested SRT-4 tuner in the world lives 45 minutes from me
careless i caught on haha
"its not a woo woo its a WOOO WOOO" hahahahaha
anyways i want a muffler because it makes the exhaust note more attractive then without one...this isnt an SRT-4 that sounds good without a muffler...Plus a muffler will finish off the back of a really plain looking car ass... 4" pipe with no muffler will look ghetto rigged the way im running it...a 4" straight through muffler also does not restrict the exhaust at all
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i think i know of a good machine shop i could trust...do you mind PM'ing me some info on what needs to be done to it and i might actually have one that would do it for me at a good price...also where did you pick up the billets from? im going above 9,000 and closer to 35-40 PSI and want some assurance as well lol
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this is a nissan motor of a different kind though, the RB26 with the Tomei pump has a much higher increased pressure and flow rate over a standard nissan, with a built motor like stony's proper filtration and flow through the filter play a huge role in it...the bypass would only of caused more problems then good in this case i feel
moral of the story like everyone is trying to say is that fram filters (besides their race filters) have no place being in a ultra high performance high modified engine, and i think thats something we can all agree on
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the R33 filter number is AY100-NS007
I read that KA24 filters and VG30DET filters are the same. I cannot verify. I will take a stab in the dark and say that the body and innards are the same except for the number of pleats in the filter element, causing the R33 filter to possibly flow as much or more than the VG engine counterpart.
I hope that helps somewhat in your search.
yes that does help actually thank you
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which the K&N oil filter number compared to a fram PH3682 (RB26 size from RBmotoring.com) would be this filter...if anyone could verify that would be perfect
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has anyone tried a K&N Performance Gold filter...i know of a few people using them on 700-1000 HP SRT-4's
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i think you fail to see that most of the supra guys now are going mid 8's and 9's consistently with the stock 6 speed
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yeah im looking to go about 9,500-10,000 if possible so i would say L19 bolts will be the way to go...looking to do maybe 750 WHP
i feel honored to have matt posting in my thread and answering my questions haha
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well i would say that pretty much answered my question
now matt, on a RB that was going to be running say about 950 HP MAX to the wheels, would you recommend going up to the L19 upgraded bolts on it? or just skip the eagle rods for that type of power, to go with a more expensive rod?
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i use royal purple in my caliber SRT-4 and i pay about 65-75 an oil change, but will never put a fram oil filter on my car, i will only choose the K&N performance gold filters because i know they work incredibly well for high HP and high volume application
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if matt aka cheftrd recommends eagle rods then they much be good in my book lol
either way im not looking to push the amount of HP recommend for rods, but even at only 150 HP per cylinder thats still good for 900 HP of which there is no reason to have that much in a Z unless you have a death wish lol
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well even though i dont personally know you...i would have to say if its good enough for you then its good enough for me haha
especially since matt recommends them they have to have very good then, are you going to keep the T88 or go with a DBB turbo or Borg Warner?
im trying to decide what to go with but im beginning to think i might just piece together a kit with an Ebay manifold and a custom BW for the best performance...also is PM'ing matt the best thing to do? im looking for an R33 crank and some other parts
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well from what i have seen the only failing problem (as internals go) on RB26 motors is the rod bolts snap around that HP...obviously tune plays a HUGE role in that but the rod bolts have already been linked to the main internals problem in the RB26
either way im going with eagle rods and JE pistons with an R33 crank and GReddy oil pump...that should be more then enough internally to support what i would like to do
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i have been wanting to see a badass RB26 build using eagle rods and seeing you use them makes me feel a lot more confident in them lol
your new motor is going to be awesome man, cant wait to see pics and vids of it when its done
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i think i might just end up doing this so that i can clear the windage trays as well but go external pickup
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if stony gets too many replies on the R33 cranks you can send the rest this way, im in need of one
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after looking through quite a few posts on the actual skyline forums it seems like everyone agrees that the only problem with the RB26 in stock form is the rod bolts and that is what the failing point of them is above 600 HP (besides the R32 crank fix), now my question is i found this on ebay
technically those sound like a decent solution along with a better oil pump to building an entire motor...how much more the stock rods can handle, im not sure how much and i dont know if anyone does here, but im sure this would be a "value" route rather then building the motor and still get around 600 HP out of it
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why not just find a R34 tranny and seal off the section going to the front diff...or just use an RB25 tranny and get upgraded gear box for it
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yeah diesel prices are through the roof man, i would recommend getting rid of that truck and keeping the Z the way it is for now and look at something like a used WRX, the new ones are having massive amounts of problems and almost every WRX from built from mid january till now was recalled from what i heard because they all had faulty piston rings...i would stay away from this WRX model for awhile until all the bugs are worked out
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ive never heard of a turbo being the wrong size for an engine, you can put any turbo on a car you want...twin 2871R's should be perfect as a twin turbo setup
It shouldnt be your BOV since the problem is on spool up from what you said
I could see a balance tube helping somewhat, but the stock manifolds dont have one why would your aftermarket ones need one?
maybe since the 2871R is a slower spooling turbo for a twin turbo setup and when it hits it hits hard
from the sound of it though its more like there is some restriction in the charge pipes that is forcing the air back out casuing the surge or the turbo is spinning too fast and its falling back on itself
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yeah thats more then enough ground clearance for me
$350 junkyard find
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
so how much would you be willing to sell it for since im not too far from zanesville