310z
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Posts posted by 310z
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That is looking good.
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The parts I see are worth more than the price. The rust I see would send me in another direction but it depends on your local area. In an area where rusted out Zs are the norm that might be an OK car to start with. In my area I would spend a little more and get a body that did not need so much work.
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I had a set given to me and I will most likely pass them on to someone in need.
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17X 9 & 9.5 Rota -13 & -19 245 40 and 255 40 Kuhmo V720's mock-up and finished product
That looks good, fit is just right. Will your car be ready for any of the Trinity Touring Car events this year?
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My 2 cents as I have stated before is that five spoke wheels with a four lug pattern does not look right, no matter how cool the wheels are. There are three solution to this issue.
1. convert to five lugs
2. convert to pin drive and cover holes with a plate. Or wheels made for a pin drive set up.
3. get a different set of wheels
So, I am not sure why no one is interested in Jongbloed wheels. To my knowledge they are still made in Southern California. http://jongbloedracing.com/wordpress/
The first time I saw a set of their old classic race wheels I was hooked. The set I saw were just to wide for my build. Their 214 aero is similar to their old race wheel. Then there are just some old wheels like my BBS magnesium race wheels.
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I also like them both. Without seeing them on a Z, I prefer the Riverside's straight spokes to the slightly curved Miramar.
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The first day i picked up my '75 Z.
Looks really nice. Put some 16x7 or 8in. wheels with 0-offset and you are set as far as looks go.
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I'm currently running 225 width tires front and rear under stock fenders and with stock suspension. With flares that wide and coil overs you should be thinking 255 front and 275 rear.
Or more.
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Watch ebay, they come up from time to time usually from over seas. A set sold for $1200 last year.
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The center fins tend to get broken when a floor jack is used that has raised edges. The raised edges place presure on the center fins and brake them off when the jack is not positioned properly. Make sure you have a good view of the two bottom center fins. I got a buddy deal about 7 yr. ago for $200.
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Another issue on the same topic is tire selection. R-compound tires are available in 15 in. and some non-high preformance tires. However, high performance street tires have a very limited selection. I have 16x8 without flares. As 15 in. tire selections decreased about 6-7 yr. ago used 15 in wheels started showing up on ebay. As long as you are willing to run R-compound tires there will be tires available. Most vintage race cars run a 15 in. wheel so availability will still be around.
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Those are some very nice Z cars being built, Rooger82, Andreas, and The Crusher.
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I know nothing about the wheel and how it fits, although it looks good. However, it looks heavy as Michael noted. A lot of mass on the outer wheel. The Enkei -92 size 15x7 I use to have weighed 13.5 lb. The BBS Magneisum race wheels I run sized 16x8 are 12.5 lb. In my opinion for a Z, if a wheel is near 15 lb. you need to consider something else. Looks are not everything.
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MOMO Champion
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In 2014 I drove the Z to Auto Week in Monertay Ca. USA. It was a great time. I met the guys from Japanese Nostalgic Car Ben Hsu and his co worker who is like a human dictionary on Japanise cars (sorry I can not remember his name). They did a photo shoot of my car while there and added it in a section titled Monterey-historics- part-05 sights-sounds.
We hung out had snacks, dinner and went to auctions. Went to the historic races and the Italiano.
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This might be easier, at least from the stock location across the fire wall.
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First post. I've been going through the posts in this thread and amazing work guys! I've been looking for a project car that is different and I can't believe I've never paid more attention to the S30 cars.
Good looks, light weight, the ability to easily add Hp in many different configurations, it is a hard combination to beat.
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Takayuki,
Your Z looks a lot better than that generic BMW across the street.
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Wow, to bad on the motor, down time and money. The sound quality sounds just like mine using a Cannon sx200 although my videos are the full length of the event. 20 min. in some cases. Your RPMs sound similar to mine I am guessing up to 6500?
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Upon completion of the build the Z had Bridgestone G009 in a 225-50- 16 a 460 tread wear tire. Steering was annoyingly twitchy. In any corner as the tach neared 3800 RPM and the car came into the cam the rear would step out and nicely drift the tail out as long as you wanted it to. At 13000 miles the tires had 2-5000 miles left in them. I removed them due to age.
Upon my drive home with the Bridgestone RE71R in 225-50-16 here are the things I noticed. Tar strips caused a loud noise, like someone ripping paper next to your ear. My car is loud. I do not notice any tire noise unless I touch tar strips. Traction is amazing. I made a left hand turn on to a 4 lane road expecting the rear to step out as before. The tires just held on and shoved me harder into the side bolster on the seat. The next thing I noticed was the twitchy steering and too rapid of turn in was gone. The car was more stable, I could relaxed driving down the road without the car wanting to dart all over the poorly maintained mountain roads.
At the auto-X track I was amazed at the grip, but knew these tires would not last long. Two weeks later I attended a track day at Thunder Hill Race Way, Willows Ca. I was even more impressed with the traction. Turn in is perfect. The tires hold a beautiful line through the turns. The Z likes 33 psi front and 29 psi rear with this tire.While at the track I also got to test the brake pad up grades to Porterfield R4S and air ducts to channel air to the calipers and disks. This change work great. I did not have any brake fade.
I ran into some rain on the way home from a car show. I was concerned with the new tire related to traction and hydroplaining. I slowed to 65 MPH and I did not have any problems.
So, the changes I made were for the better. The brakes no longer fade at race pace. The Bridgestone RE71R tires made the steering not dart all over the road. Traction is better everywhere I tested and the tires were not scary in the rain.
I have read reviews of people driving light cars with R compound tires and getting 10,000-15,000 miles out of them including Z cars, claiming track and auto-x days. I think if I did another track day for a total of 2 on these tires they will need to be replaced, they look great though.
Photo credits to Dito Milian www.gotbluemilk.com.
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I've had an account for awhile(just over 2 years now) to read up on things.
I finally found a Z I wanted about a month ago, and I picked it up a week ago near Richmond, Virginia. I then drove it home to Minnesota.
The SBC had a couple of oil leaks I took care of plus one more I've not gotten to yet. It starts/runs/drives great.
Pretty sure I've already put more miles on it than it has otherwise seen since at least the 90's. The tires it came with were from 1992 and still had the nubs from when they were made. With the shape everything is in and the way the numbers are lined up on the odometer, I think the 71k might be the first time around.
Planning on trying out that 8.8 IRS bolt in swap+updating the front suspension this winter along with adding flares. Gauges will be swapped out for autometer ones in the next couple weeks. Might get rid of the OEM bumpers for something more like the 240z ones, fiberglass or otherwise.
It came with the original book, window sticker, toolkit, jack, radio book and wheel chocks.
Originally when I was looking for a Z I wanted a semi beater one as I was going to tin-can and backhalf the thing anyway. This one I'll feel bad about cutting the fenders to add flares.
There are lots of rust buckets where the fenders need to be cut up just to make anything worthy out of them. What you have is an amazing survivor that was motor swapped back in the day. I, personally would not cut that car up. I would find another one with rusted wheel arches 280 or what ever for a low price. Turn over the current car to someone who will pay top dollar to have a car in great condition. Then you would have money left over from the sale to purchase a car that needs cutting to save it and place flairs and big fat meats on it and what ever else you have plans for. It's your car and your choice but once you cut on a car that does not need it you have taken one more premium body Z out of circulation. You may not be interested in my 2 cents, but there it is. I would like to have a second Z that is flared. It would be a high production number 280Z with some body damage issues. It would have some serious meats attached driven by an LS7 or RB. But, I would not cut on my current Z.
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On the transmission swap look for an 1983. I think it is a direct bolt in. i do not remember what gear ratio is in the rear end of a 4-speed but I think you will be OK. A little searching and you can find what rear end gear ratio the 4-speed came with. A 3.70 to 3.90 will be great.
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The car looks great. It is in beautiful cosmetic shape. I personally do not know why any one would want to keep a Z stock as you can see in photos of my car. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83577-the-build-of-a-240z-by-310z/
However everyone has their own ides and I respect that. Your car has either been maintained exceptionally or redone well. The cars are old and by today's standards many of the systems are not up to what we are accustom to. The cooling system is one that will not stand up to your Texas heat well especially with an air conditioner that I noticed in your photos. Based on your writing it appears you know what you want and like but may not have in depth mechanical knowledge.Then a shop you trust is everything or a shop can just drain your wallet. There are ways to up grade the car and still leave things stock appearing so function can be up to a modern standard. Such as while you have the 4-speed transmission rebuilt for storage install a 5- speed, only you know it has a 5- speed. When and if you sell it as stock you have the proper transmission to go with it. Aluminum radiators are the only way to go if over heating is an issue. Small things like that make a big difference. just my 2 cents.
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Very nice work, looks beautiful.
Recommended tire pressure
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted · Edited by 310z
33 psi. in the front and 29 psi. in the rear is where my car likes it best. Yours may be slightly different.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83577-the-build-of-a-240z-by-310z/page-5