aarang

Just curious, did you trim the sheet metal on the hood below the vents as well? If so, would you have any pics? Thanks.

You could use two regular barn doors and put a small hinged section at the corners that would fold away (think door hinges) when you open it so they don't touch the ground.Use a slide latch on each so they can be secure when the doors are closed. You can trim out the doors in a way that they won't be noticeable from the outside.

Is it cast iron or cast steel like the exhaust manifold? I would think that how easily it welded that it is cast steel. I also carved out the hole in the cut off flange to 2.5" for the downpipe and ported the wastegate housing to 2.5" as well. There is not much left after that. It is a tight fit on a ZX, but the tight radius bends are easily obtainable.

All of the 'NISSAN' valve covers that I have seen have come on the import engines. I bought a few L28's back in the 90's from an engine importer and they had those valve covers.I don't think any made it onto US engines, but you never know. An interesting side note is that both of the engines were F54 flat top P90a engines with the Nissan ECCS system. Probably out of a Cedric or Laurel would be my guess. They also both had the dual throttle plate throttle body and intake as well.

Take the stock downpipe and cut the flange off. That is what I did. My new downpipe easily welded to it.

Just a heads up, I was at the Sherwood, OR Pick-N-Pull today and a 78 Black 280Z had just arrived in the front lot. Sorry I don't have any pics. It is all there in really good shape.I don't know if it was the Pearl one or not, I couldn't get close enough to tell if it had been resprayed. I hope someone gets the whole car before it reaches the yard. They also had a 944 Turbo complete car as well. Finally scrounging together my Megasquirt EDIS parts!

Why not do the Z32 trans swap? The adapters are still available, and the trans are pretty easy to find at the wrecking yards.

You will probably want a manual boost controller. If you want to go to 10 psi, you will most likely want to take the POV off the intake manifold and put a 1" pipe plug in its place.

Did you check the fusible links for current draw or just voltage? They can be bad even if the voltage across them is good.

Check the fusible link for the injectors.

I would not reuse the key or the pulley/damper. I had one come off a long time ago and I reused it thinking it looked OK. It came off again a month later after it cracked through the woodruff key slot, tearing up the end of the crank and destroying the front cover and radiator to boot.

The sensor with the 'nub' on it is for the temp gauge. You should be able to use the ZXT sensor with your Z gauge. The other sensor with the wire pigtail is actually a switch for the injector fan. You don't need to use that one.

You need to bleed the master cylinder.

I'll take it if it is good shape with all the connectors (uncut) and its for the later 82/83 turbo . My zip is 98607 to calculate the shipping. LMK your Patpal, thanks

Hey, I'll take one (or two ) of the engine harnesses uncut when you are ready.

Bump, still looking......

I am looking for an 82 or 83 280ZXT engine harness in relatively good shape. I will pay for shipping. Looking to pay around $50 or less. I just need this until my Megasquirt is installed to drive my car, as my current harness is fubar. Thanks Aaron

Damn, I think I had the same Huffy as you for my first BMX bike. Was the three speed shifter a twist grip? After my dad backed over the Huffy with the car on accident, I got a Redline Raceline BMX and raced for quite a few years. Sadley, though, the bike was stolen years ago.

I like those wheels as well. They have +15 offset which will make the backspace a little over 5".It would work in the back of the ZX, but will rub in the front on the strut. You could get some 1/2" spacers, but then there is more work involved in fitting them.

The plastic piece goes on the pedal. I had to put a nut and bolt in my pedal after the plastic piece broke and killed the battery. I had to readjust the switch a bit to make sure the new stopper did not slam into the switch when the brake pedal was released. Works good now.

Call Ross directly and send them a sample of a turbo piston. Tell them what you need and they will do it. They might still have the piston specs they made me ( dished turbo with floating pins) on file. I ordered the pistons through Summit Racing to get the best price. This was about seven years ago now, and I got pistons, pins and rings for $463. I am sure it will be more now, though.

Just wondering, are you using one of the crap stamped impeller water pumps? I have had nothing but problems with those things. Get a genuine Nissan water pump with the cast impeller and see how you go.

Rotas look better, in my opinion. The 2+2 looks pretty menacing with the Rotas.

A&P for over ten years. Currently working on FedEx airplanes at PDX. I also have a Private pilots' license which I have had for 15 years.

Thanks Tony for the info. I am trying to stay away from the store brand thermostats and stick with a genuine Nissan product. I have had bad luck with the Stant brand of thermostats as well. I might try one of the Mr Gasket high flow thermostats and build a spacer for the thermo housing like JeffP did. My car never overheats ( I have two 12" fans with a shroud on the stock ZX radiator), but I am unhappy with the temperature swings my car has. I do not have the thermostat bypass to the inlet of the pump currently. I have a 180deg Nissan thermostat in it currently with a hole drilled in it for the bypass. I was wanting to try the 160 Deg with the proper Nissan configured bypass to see if it would help with the temp swings and the slight detonation problems I am having. I have read through all the cooling mod threads and am tryng to come up with a solution for my cooling "problems" without actually reverting to the 5/6 cooling mod. I may still have to do it in the end.