OldSkuZed

I had just gone through the same issue when thinking I had a bad alternator. I come to find out that I had a newer reman alternator and had also assumed it would be a modern internal reg unit but it was not. It still would have to use the VR so unless you do the ZX swap you would have to get a external reman unit. Also as far as the wiring goes we lucked out having a 75 which only comes with 5 wires at the connection to the VR and not the 6 wire which has that extra wire we need to cut off power when the car is off and wont drain the battery... So there would be a little extra work needed to do the swap for this year. If your VR checks out just get a cheap reman and call it a day. GL!

Well I got her running good and most things sorted out (Thanks for the help HybridZ) and I believe I'm down to the last couple little things that are acting up. 1) My right side blinker wont blink when I engage the turn signal on the left side, The lights just turn on and stay on including the turning indicator on the dash. Hazards do make both sides blink however. 2) I have been sorting out all the connections in the engine bay replacing broken lines etc. But I'm left with NO HEAT on the main center vents, AC blows and I'm able to direct airflow to where I want and will get heat elsewhere just no heat out the vents. AC and air just not hot will blow out the center vents. Thanks! Oh and btw anyone know of where I can get one of those front windshield squirt things? The little "T" was broken and upon replacing the little metal tap broke off...

^haha thanks but its a eye sore for me but very happy to know what that thing is finally!

I havent seen this on other Z's and it doesnt show up in the FSM. Its the tank with two vacuum hose outlets that leads to that other part which has several other hose outlets. Its off a 75 280z.

I have it set at 800rpms.

^Actually your rights its a internal reg unit.... I went by the photo on alanticz which shows a plain back compared to mine which seemed to have the reg unit but it was just the diode and the guy which I do trust at my parts store said it was an internal unit as well but on their site it clearly shows external.... Thanks for catching that for me I would of started to cut and splice that connector to the reg still having a ext. unit... lol Well put everything back together and checked to see if the alternator is charging properly and it seems to be doing its job, battery goes a little above 14v when revved. Lights do dim when on idle and get brighter when I climb rpms but you say that's normal so this leaves me to just go through all the wires and clean them out.

Its a 75 and apparently they only have 5 wires so not sure what to do now. Im assuming still having the VR set up may cause a problem. As for knowing how its a internally regulated alternator when I removed it thinkining it was the source of the problem I noticed it was a reman from Advance Auto Parts and I see the internal reg on the unit itself. Item # 14118 for this unit since it still has the tag.

Just to add to my confusion I only see 5 wires. Missing the GR wire that says I need to connect to wire WB. Only have G/WB/B/Y/W.....

Okay I took a closer look at the regulator side and this is what I found. It seems that's its untouched... Being that it currently has a modern internal reg alternator how is this able to work??? Also would you be able to tell me whats this fuse box/bridge for as I haven't seen it on other cars. As you can see two wires were cut and had a fuse added and bypasses it now just leaving the the one in in the box.

First of thanks to those to helped me out on my previous "help" thread as I got her running good finally! Now to my current issue, the car sometimes turns off or chokes when I decelerate or if I rev the car it will attempt to shut off and sometimes will. Also noticed the lights on my dash will get brighter as I rev so I assumed it was a faulty alternator, also disconnected the battery while the car was on to see if it would remain on and it did shut off every time which confirmed my suspicion of a bad alternator so I removed it and went to get it tested BUT it passed. Now I also noticed that its a modern internal reg alternator (re man "Advance Auto Parts" alternator) and the wires from where the factory reg is has been spliced and had a fuse installed. So not knowing much about these older setups I'm assuming they converted to the modern alternators and this was apart of that conversion. So now I'm stumped as to whats the cause of this issue if the alternator is in fact good. Is there other components in this system I should be checking? Thanks again for the help!

Well it would take a few cranks to get her started and would run very very rough while having to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running but will eventually die out. I figured I go through the fuel system and found out that 5 out of the 6 injectors were clogged up... Cleaned them out and replaced the fuel filter and gaped the plugs since the previous owner did not. So that's where I'm at right now, any tips on other things I should be checking for?

^I will try that alternate fix then. Thanks for the idea.

Hi all, I'm having trouble keeping my 75 280z to stay running so I'm attempting to go over the car making sure all the connections and lines are good and found one wire that was just hanging. I believe it to be the Temp switch, not sensor if I'm not mistaken. I've read that even this little guy can cause the car to run poorly or not run at all.... In my case I need to have my foot on the gas to stay on but even so its very rough and dies. If you guys have any tips of a possible cause that would be fantastic. As of now can you fellows point me to this switch, I've found some online but they all look the same and are mostly always listed as the temp sensor not switch. I looked on Rock Auto but again not sure which part number it is. Thanks!