evil_datto

Sure thing, my VB files are all written in 6.0 too because I hate the newer .NET versions. I'll go dig out the files and I'll send you a message in a bit.

You could buy something like an arduino board if you aren't afraid of a little coding. I have done this myself and still have the code I had written which does this exact thing, turns the rpm signal into an RPM and sends through the virtual serial port (USB) to a program I had written in VB to receive the RPM and display it.

Seems to fail mostly after finished writing in verification 1-4% with the error "could not read monitor prompt".

I have the unit out of the car at the moment, and hooked up pin#28 & pin #18 to just power up the unit. Bootloader pins are jumpered. Trying to reload the code, but it's acting strange in that it will get anywhere from instantly fail, to almost finish writing/verifying before failing. Does this mean the MS unit is messed up?

I went out and hooked up my desktop computer next to my car, cause I wanted to use TunerStudio and see if I got any different results (TS doesn't work on the laptop I got in the car). So when I had it all running, I was getting messed up values on the gauges in TunerStudio as if nothing was grounded or something e.g. RPM fluctuating 1-32,000. I think the only sensor that seemed to be showing a normal reading was the MAP sensor at about ~101kPa. I then turned the car off and back on again and still got the same results. I then opened up MegaTune and it wouldn't connect at all. Testing the ports came up all failed. Then back again to TunerStudio and now it wouldn't connect there either. This has me stumped at the moment, cause with the laptop all the readings looked normal, except that it thought it was running when it wasn't. Yet with TunerStudio on my desktop it was showing those crazy values. If RPM has been acting like that the whole time, it would probably explain why it thought it was running. Any reason it would be acting like this? Thanks, Scott.

Are you telling me that every single L20A N/A I have seen has the WRONG injectors on it? Are you telling me that JECS just for shits & giggles decided to use the SAME part numbers for DIFFERENT injectors that look exactly the same? These GREEN injectors are EXACTLY the same. I've seen many L20A's, I'm always going to the wrecking yards to grab stuff. And in all my time I have never seen anything but GREEN injectors on the L20A N/A S130's. What can I say? I'm seeing only green injectors on S130 Fairlady Z's & Fairlady 280Z's, I just don't see how every single one (I've seen a lot) have tossed out these original non-green injectors you're talking about for the green ones. I'll edit my posts if you want to show me where in this Nissan documentation it says that the original Japanese RHD S130 2.0 Fairlady Z has something other than the green injectors. If by some chance they are actually still green, and carry the same exact JECS part number (like you said, yet you said they are a different colour anyway), then really it's a fairly honest mistake that someone would think they were the same exact thing.

Just went out and checked the voltage of the coil & CAS, and both have power before starting & during cranking. I just realized I should get power from the fuel pump for the coil. But anyway, so far I still can't see why MS still thought it was running when it's not?

Just checked right now, the part numbers are "A46-00" & "A46-00000" all injectors from every set I have are green. Same part, but some must be slightly newer with the extra '0's

They aren't from L20ET's and are most definitely the same color and part numbers. I find it hard to believe I could have gotten two sets of these injectors from two separate L20A's and have them turn out to be switched out. I'll give you pictures if you want, and I could go a step further and go to the junkyard and take pictures of green injectors on more S130 Fairlady Z's. L20A's are 10x more common than L28's here because we didn't receive many actual 2.8 ZX's. Maybe the cedrics and whatnot ran those ones you are talking about and these 'Fairlady Z' ran 180cc ones. I don't have any documentation but when every N/A L20 Z I've seen is using green injectors, it's hard to think they were switched out or something. Also, I don't read Japanese because they are all Jap imports, and whatever documentation there is would be in Japanese. Also there is literally no such thing as an L28ET here because we never got it here. I'll go out tonight and write down the part numbers. Don't mean to come off like I know this all for sure, but I'm just telling you my experience, which very much points to what I've stated.

I ran all new power wires for the CAS & Coil & Fuel Pump from a relay which also powers the MS, switched from key to Ign. I'll take a closer look and check I haven't done something stupid with the wiring. Thanks for the replies.

I have two sets of injectors from Fairlady Z with L20A's and they are all 180cc green units - exact same part numbers as the L28E injectors. The computer may simply run more conservative pulse widths on them.

I think I didn't have it installed, I had my uncle solder it all up. I didn't want to use direct coil fire cause of the problems I keep seeing people having with it.

Thanks, sorry forgot to mention my details, I've set it as my sig. Yeah I have cranking RPM set to 350. Fuel pump primes for about 1-2 seconds after turning the key to ign which is also when the MS unit powers on. I'm using the pulley mounted CAS, with IGN(input) wired to the CAS Green/Black wire, +12V from my main power relay, and a ground wire from the MS harness. I have +12V and the IGN(output) going to the power transistor (which is now broken after I tried to clean it after my test fire run. Working on getting replacement.) Injectors did not fire either as far as I could tell, had my finger on the injector to feel if the solenoid was clicking and couldn't smell any fuel in the chamber with spark plugs out. Does the pullup resistor for the IGN input signal need to be connected to a separate +12V or can it be wired to the +12V to the CAS? I will check and see if the fuel pump relay does come on during cranking or not. Thanks, Scott.

Well then, I might as well ask about the power transistor. I managed to break mine ('81zxt type) so I'm in need of a replacement. I went to the parts store and the one listed for 280zx is the Ignition Module used for the VR distributor. And the one I saw that looked exactly the same was from a skyline IIRC. Except it only has two connectors on it, not two in, two out like the zx one. I also looked at a HEI 4-pin one, but that doesn't let me control dwell does it? What is a good replacement for the stock transistor?

My first attempts to fire the engine today and some issues. I recorded a datalog while attempting to start it and noticed a few things. Firstly, there was no RPM signal in from the CAS. Secondly, the engine bit 'Running' was =Y the whole time, even before attempting to start it & after. That probably explains why my gauges in MegaTune for Dwell & Pulse Width were always showing 2.9 & 12 respectively regardless of running or cranking. I assume it shouldn't be doing that. So I guess my question is why was it saying it is always Running? Here's the datalog. first datalog.zip