joey j
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Posts posted by joey j
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Joey,
You'll at least want the sensors for the AEM (MAP sensor, IAT sensor, and Wideband gauge/controller). I can get you a package deal if you'd like.
The stock ecu can be fitted with a nistune board or nismotronic (can't help you on that one). They need internal mods for bigger MAF though.
Also, another way you can go is using an RB20 ECU or a Z32 ECU. With an RB20 ecu you'll lose the VVT, but the Z32 can be retained. However, to my understanding with the Z32 ecu, you have to modify a Z32 harness. On the RB20 ECU swap, you only have to move a few pins. There's actually a lot of information on Skyline's Australia about both setups, the RB20 is more popular for them though (since there's an abundance of them over there).
I'm going to shoot you a PM regarding that package deal.
Z32 doesn't need a harness. You do however have to add just a couple resistors inside and a couple wires inside the ECU (mainly fuel temp sender (since we don't have one) and stub out the knock sensors (cuz RB ones are too sensitive and false trigger), and I think EGR or FICD needs a wire moved).
I used the exact same ECU.
I had an eprom emulator already (Moates ostrich), so all I needed was the ECU ($40 for NA board), socket the board ($10), get a consult cable ($20), and get the nistune license ($200).
Otherwise, the Nistune board/package is a better all in one solution for $515 AU = $406 USD plus whatever the Z32 ECU costs. They are making the software better all the time as well. They now have an injection multiplier which makes injector resizing simple. Nistune is however a just a hopped up stock program mod, so it doesn't have quite the full features an aftermarket ECU would have (little support for boost control, meth injection, launch control, 2-step rev limit, etc.).
I'm almost ready to get on the dyno with my RB. Just need to iron out the LS2 coil swap finishing touches, and get my interior back in.
This method seems a little more intense which i dont think i can handle. I'll stick with the AEM S2.
I am in the process of getting everything hooked up on mine. You will need the MAP and AIT and wideband sensors as mentioned before as well as switch the CAS disc out with the AEM disc. You will want to take your time with the CAS disc swap as it is very easy to damage the parts in the process. Other than that the AEM should be plug and play or at least I am hoping so.
Let me know how it works out. I have to look into the CAS disc, i hadnt heard of the need to replace that. I hope there is nothing else that would have to be done.
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I say g for it if you have the funds. Aem makes fantastic plug and play stuff for all the sought after engines most of us cant afford lol. best of luck!!!
I would like avoiding that $1700 expense but to my understanding you have to go with a aftermarket ecu if you plan on getting more power out of the rb25.
Can the stock ecu be tuned? I plan on at least swapping out intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds so I can run a top mount. Would I be able to run the stock ecu with those upgrades?
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So I'm thinking about getting an AEM s2 but get the car running with everything bone stock. Is that possible? I'm thinking I should do this since I do plan to make upgrades in the future but I don't want to have to swap ECUs and mess with the harness in the future( I'm planning to buy a wiring specialties pre made harness)
I plan on upgrading injectors and manifolds and turbo so I can run a top mount.... BUT the money isn't available for all that right now.
What do you all think?
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I wouldn't trust anything other than McKinney mounts. Everything else you can opt to cx racing, I wouldn't cheap out on the mounts. They're too important. I actually ordered my McKinney mounts, driveshaft and throttle cable last week.
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I used an old harness from McKinney motorsports and like helghast7 said it could run the motor on a stand with a battery. There is just a couple of wires to connect and you are good to go. I read through Chris' instructions and I would have done it my self if the package deal I got on mounts and drive shaft hadn't already come with the harness. You shouldn't have to do any thing to keep your lights working just make sure that you don't cut any of those wires out when you clean up the engine bay. I took everything out of mine except the head lights, wipers, the wires for the starter and alternator. Your tail lights are on a separate terminal so there is nothing to change there.
I thought the lights were all connected to the ECU together with the engine harness. Is that not correct?
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I am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1976 280z. I am located near Youngstown Ohio and would prefer large items to be within driving distance. Send me a message and we can discuss anything you may have. Items I'm looking for as follows:
- ZG flares
- Z432 rear spoiler or BRE
- Ground control coil-overs (280z)
- Camber Plates
- Toyota Front brakes vented or non-vented setups
- Rear Disc Conversion
- MSA 6-2 Headers (coated)
- MSA Twice pipes
- Fender Mirrors
- Rota RB stagger package wheels (black or gunmetal)
- Triple Carb setup (complete)
- Ignition Box
- Universal Fuse box and or Wiring Harness
- 5-Speed Transmission 280Z or ZX
- R200 LSD
- Flat top pistons (new not used)
- Cam (new not used)
I have a tranny off of a turbo 280zx. I'm not sure if it's good or not. Got it off a car that wasn't running.
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Just installed it this weekend, I love it! No kidding what so ever, once i connected all the sensors on the engine it was literally 4 wires to connect and she's running without a hitch.
Like I said its nothing like a 240sx, whether you wire it yourself or you buy the harness, its not designed to replace the body harness like in the SX, you wire it as if you wanted the engine to run outside of the car, you keep all the factory wiring for the car. You simply give the engine constant power, ignition switched power, ground, starter circuit and fuel and thats it.
Headlights are from the car, tails, turn signal, if you wire yourself so is the starting and charging wiring are all from the car.
Thanks for the info buddy, it greatly helps. I'll most likely go that same route and try and find a shop to wire up lights and stuff.
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After doing this swap myself I'll say this; you pretty much want to wire up the engine as if you want to run it off an engine stand.
Personally I bought a wiring specialties harness, but even if you follow Chris' guide up further, its pretty much what your doing. These cars are too old and simple to have an integrated harness like a 240sx would.
How do you like the pre-made harness? I assume those are literally plug and play. I was comtemplating going that route to keep things a little cleaner.
The car is going to be a show/weekend car so I need to make it street legal. Head and tail lights are a must for me.
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I've been a long time lurker of Hybrid Z and now that i am looking into doing an RB25DET swap into my 280z it's time to introduce my self. I have a 77' 280z with some minor cosmetic modifications (flares, low, wide wheels.. you know the basics. Now it's time to work on the motor, but i need some help. A lot of it!
On to the noob question... If the OEM ECU is replaced with the RB25DET ECU how does the wiring for the headlights, tailights ect. work? Is the wiring harness for all that separate from the engine harness? This picture below is telling me otherwise.
I am relatively mechanically savy so i will be attempting to do all the wiring harness using the great info from this forum's members. I'm trying to gather as much information as i can before jumping into this.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
1971 240z rb25det build thread
in Nissan RB Forum
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I just went through your whole thread as I am stock piling parts for my RB25 swap. Thank you for all the time you put into this! I will definitely use this as a guide.