Nizzan
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Posts posted by Nizzan
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out of just a random flange???
I pm'd you, but if anyone else is wondering the same thing, YES.
I simply asked the machinst to modify the outer casing (ie. cut off the spilnes and add a flange)
How/where he got the flange from, is unknown to me.
Hope this helps,
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Haha that's really neat. They should do the same with a Zcar!
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I've rebuilt two 5speeds so far, one being the 240sx, the other 280zx. While they are pressed on pretty good, it's pretty easy to tap them on and off. A gear puller can help in this situation as well.
I found with putting new bearings and syncro's in, that the hard part was remembering HOW it all went together, not actually doing the work.
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a local guy has a 240sx 5-speed he's letting go cheap. anybody know if it will mate up to my L24?
[EDIT] o.k. after searching it seems like the SX tranny does work but requires an adaptor. is that correct? sorry for the n00b post but you guys are posting about rb747 something-or-other into an et9478205 something-else, and i have no idea what the hell all the codes are.
You won't need an adapter, what your going to end up doing is use the back half (gearbox) of the 240sx, and use 280z bell housing. (The 280z bell housing will bolt up directly to your L24 block.) Here is some information on this topic:
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html
If you still need help, PM me, for I have recently done this swap.
Cheers
EDIT: You will also have to do some mounting modifications, it's just some fab work.
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Sounds great man!
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or a 10x scale so I can drive it!
Don't you mean 1:1 scale?
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Well I just gave a deposit at a place in my town in NC to have the dash covered like this:
I hope it comes out good. They are even going to make stitching that says Datsun 280Z on it over the glove compartment area. The estimate was $300 I hope it doesn't go too much higher.
Looking forward to see how it comes out. Keep us posted!
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Here are some:
I guess the prices generally went up then. Average price is about $450
Which is still very good considering that they have about 10,000-30,000 miles on them. And a brand new (o miles) r180 LSD differential from Subaru is about $2100.
EDIT: Sorry for double post.
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Thx.
yes, the whole unit. I wouldn't bother getting the center and finding out there there issues
. did you get yours from a junk yard? the sellers on ebay charge more than 4x more for what you got yours for.What?! I got mine off ebay, not even a year ago, axles as well.
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So, this is going from the stock nissan R200 to the subaru R180?
How difficult would you think it would be to put one in a datsun with a nissan R180?
Great writeup BTW.
EDIT: BTW how can you tell if an sti diff is lsd (i.e. ebay)?
For your first question, yes it is. My differentials over the time of owning the car went from the original open 3.36 r180 --> open 3.90 r200 --> Subaru "k" r180 clutch type LSD 3.90.
Second question; Your talking about swapping in the Subaru r180 for your original Datsun r180 in a s30?
In fact I believe it would be somewhat easier going from the stock Datsun r180 to Subi because you already have the r180 mustache bar. Also the Datsun r180 driveshaft flange should swap out with the Subaru one. So there is no issue there.
Third question: If it's from an STi, and it's fairly new(as in 2002 or greater) then it should be an LSD. Also it would be in the best interest of the seller to state that's it's an LSD in order to achieve maximum $ for it. So it's most likely that the seller will state it. I believe the type of LSD unit changes throughout the years. ie. Mine is a 2004 which consist of an clutch type LSD unit. In 2007+ it's a helical unit.
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Here is a more complete write-up for the Subi diff and axle swap, and it's in it's own thread so it'll be easier to find.
If you come across a Subaru STi differential and axles and are considering swapping them into an s30 like I did, here is what needs to be done:
Before spending any money I made sure that this setup was even remotely possible. Because I planned on using the STi axles with the STi Diff, I knew there were no issues on the axles-to-Diff side, with splines and what not. his is because the Axles and differential are from the same year (2004) STi. I also noticed that the input flange, for which the driveshaft connects, on the differential was a different bolt pattern. But this problem can be easily resolved by simply swapping the r200/r180's input flange (from the datsun's) with that of the Subi.
Note: I used the r200 flange and needed to do some trimming on some of the inside dust shield in orded to prevent contact with Subi differential front seal.
Now there were two big issues that I came across. One: Is that the Subaru axles are about 4-6 inches to long. Two: Is that the hub side(outside part) of the subi axle has splines that go into the STI's wheel hub assembly. And I needed to somehow modify it to a flange.
Below:
Picture 1: is a Picture of the Subaru axle, without the end CV, going through s30 hub.
Picture 2: Is outer Subaru CV case, with 280z stub axle flanges.
So...
1. For the length issue, I thought, there had to be a place that made a shorter center shaft for an STI. Sure enough, The Driveshaft shop make a shorter center shaft for the STI. The stock shafts are 20 7/8". And after measuring and calculating I determined that the ideal length would be 15 1/4" to 15 1/2".
For my Calculations: Since I won't be using the stock center shafts, I cut them in half with the CV cases still on. Once I FINALLY cut through, I snapped in the inner half into the differential, then the outer sat into the s30 hub hole, similar to Picture #1 above. Then let the two axles cross, and then I make a mark on each one. Like this:
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: The center shafts of the Subaru axles have different combinations of splines on either side. I don't know why Subaru did this, but pay attention to this so you don't get the wrong center shafts. For my 2004 axles they are 30-30. Meaning 30 splines on each side. (Remember this is the spline count for the centershaft.) Other combination can be 32-34 for example. So if your ordering these from The Driveshaft Shop, make sure you know what yours are by COUNTING! Then let them Know you desired length and the spline ratio/combination/number, and your good to go.
As a bonus, these new shafts are built handle 400 Hp +. Now I'm just running a L30 stroker, so there is no chance I will break them. Oh I should mention these new shorter center shafts were about $400. That also includes: 4 New CV boots, 4 Tubes of CV grease, and 12 clamps. (6 small, 6 large).
Here the stock shaft and new shaft are side by side:
2. For the other issue, the problem with not having a flange. I took the outside axle case and the 280z stub axle flange to a machinist. I told him that I wanted the spline section removed and a flange welded on to match the 280z flange. Like this:
Notice the yellow ring on the drawing, this is used to line up and center this flange to the Stub-Axle flange. Same as the stock design. I made sure to include this with my notes to the machinist.
Here is some of the initial planning, with the Stock outer CV case and 280z Stub-Axle flange
And this is the outcome, notice the outer CV case (yellow) with it's new flange welded up and painted. The red circle shows the little grooves I had to make in order for the bolts to fit through the flange.
These are the axles in pieces and ready to be assembled:
Well once you put the new
CV's together your pretty well all done. Here is a picture of them in the car after about 3000 miles:Works flawlessly!
The axles fit perfectly so it isn't a PITA to take out, like it was with the z31 axles. But best thing about this setup is that I got Limited Slip, the 3.90:1 gears that I wanted, both my axles and Differential have less then 20,000 miles on them, and it's lighter! Price wise:
-The 2004 STI LSD differential with 3.90 gears. (16,000 miles) cost me about $360.
-Both the axles (18,000 miles) cost about $280.
-The new center shafts, and boots. etc. cost $400
-Welding/machining on outer CV case cost about $100
-Some POR paint and Redline gear oil. Under $100
While it cost a little over $1,200. Spending $700-$900 on z31 r200 LSD is sort of ridiculous. Considering how many miles there are on a 1987-1989 differential. Maybe a couple of years ago the r200's ran for a lot less than that. But I am very please with my setup. And I would highly recommend it.
I hope this helps those considering this swap.
Cheers!
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Sorry about that. I'm looking for the ones below. They are for the Z31 turbo axles.
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=56
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=46
Well I have the z31 axle to 240z hub (25 spline) adapters and extra rebuilt z31 axles. But thats all, so guess I'm no help.
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Your links to modern motor sports aren't working. What adapters are you looking for? What axles are you using?
1) From a previous thread:I'm looking to buy a set of these (the 27 spline 280Z companion flange type)
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ca...products_id=56
or these
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ca...products_id=46
2) A set of rear Modern Motorsports 240SX caliper brackets.
3) A set of front spacers for the Toyota caliper upgrade using 280Z hubs.
4) A JSK or Pallnet 11mm fuel rail for Supra type injectors
PM me if you have any of these parts available. Let me know the condition, price and shipping (if not local in Southern CA). Thanks.
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Ha Ha thats pretty funny. Yeah it was definitly staged, the driver of the "dual vtec" g35 was smiling and laughing the entire time.
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I think it all depends on what you find more appealing. I'm running a 16x8 rim with a 225/50/60 tire. Your other option is to run a 215/50/60 or 205/55/60, which will have less of a bulgy look than the 225. If you go with the 215/205 your less likely to be rubbing on the rear fenders. Mind you the 225/50/16 will bring you closer to that 24.5"-24.9" range on the overall diameter. Although it's hard to distinguish a 1/8" difference.
225/50-16 fits very well and is pretty close to the stock diameter so you won't have to change the speedo gear. I wouldn't go wider with a 7" rim.I have the 16x7 panasports with that size tire and only had mild rubbing with the rear fenders. Fronts were fine.
I have noticed that the width of the tire will vary a little between the various manufacturers. For example, I had Yokohama ES100s in that size with only an occasional rub when hitting a big bump. Then I tried Kumho MX and it rubbed more often. Now I have the Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec and they're just a little wider than the Kumho.
Side note: you didn't ask, but of the 3, the Dunlops are by far the best track tire, followed closely by the Kumho. But if you need to drive in the wet, the Yok ES100 was the safest of the 3.
Like Zmanco said, a lot of the tires manufactures will vary from each other marginally. I am running the Dunlop Direzza star spec in the same size as well.
This is the 225/50/16 dunlop on the 16x8 rim:
Although I'm running a 1" wider rim than you, the proportions of the above setup would be very similar to a 215/50/60 or a 205/55/60 on a 16x7 setup.
If Zmanco could show a picture of his setup it could really help show you the difference between a 225/50/16 setup on a 16x7 and a 215/50/16 or 205/55/16 setup on a 16x7.
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I will be rolling the rears. So seems like the 4s will be best.
But I am running tokico lowering springs so would it be better to just get the 10's and a front spacer? I was wanting the 4s for the extra bit that sticks out. (looks) But its really only 6mm, isnt much for the cost of rolling fenders. Ill think about it.
You got the 10's right? And are you running 225/50's or 45? Wasnt 45 v. 50 making a difference on rubbing too?
Yeah I'm running +10. 225/50/16 on all four corners. And it clears the rear fenders. I think to be on the safe side the 45 series might be better, but I like the look of the 50 series much more.
I don't know what cost more. Rolling the fenders? Or getting two 5mm front spacers?
What color did you get? I love the look of my Rota RBR. I went with the 17X8.5 because I wanted Hyperblack with a polished lip and they don't come in 16X8.I think your car would look awesome with gunmetal and a polished lip. Hyperblack would look good to, but its a little lighter than you expect.
Who are you asking?
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Hey Derek,
I agree with everyone else, go with a dark color. Flat black looks good, but maybe you should consider Hyper black. Just my .02. I got my 16x8 RB-R's in hyper black all around, not too long ago.
Are you going to be running coil-overs? If so, go with the +10 offset instead of the +04, if you don't want to roll your fenders. If your running lowering springs then you can still go with the +10, but you will need a 5mm spacer to clear the front perch.
Hopes this helps you with your decision.
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Hi John,
The betamotorsports site states its for the 25 spline later "K" R180s (while the STi "K" R180's are 27 spline)
Yeah I realized that as well. That's why I ended up going the route that I did. With the shorter Sti axles. Both differentials are "K" type cases, but the Sti's assembly is obviously different. If John.C could make the custom snap in 27 spline stubs, that would be a good solution aswell.
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I haven't done business with this company, but they might be able to help with the custom axleshafts. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/index.php
That's where I purchased my shorter STi axles. That's about as custom as they will go, concerning this topic. They don't make anything along the lines of what John is talking about, with the custom snap in Pieces.
Speaking of which, Don't you already make custom snap in pieces for the later "K" r180's John?
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Awesome link, Nizzan! Good description and great photos! I'm surprized there aren't a lot more people going this route. BTW, I searched for subaru not subi... silly me!
Thanks, hope it helps you out with your dilemma.
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I've been looking for an R180 out of a Subaru WRX Sti to put into my '71 240Z. They are fairly reasonably priced and come with 3.9 gears and are LSD. I've searched here as well as the subi forums and the 510 forums but I can't seem to find a definitive answer if these can be modified to fit in the early 240Z's. Has anyone here sucessfully done the swap??? What all is involved to make this work? Details please!
This is what I did: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117916
Hope this helps you out.
And Jon is right when he says it wasn't easy. But my post pretty much covers it all. If you have any questions let me know.
Mike.
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Whats also nice about that is that you now can get new cv axles that arent "rebuilt" and arent 20 some years old.
Thats what I was thinking too, I previously had an open r200 3.90, and had to get rebuild axles for that.
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Jon...
I too thought this diff was a helical differential. But before I installed the diff, I had the LSD assembly out to set the breakaway torque to about 50-60 Ft/lbs. What I discovered was that it did indeed have 4 pinion gears. (6 total gears)
This is exactly what the Subi LSD pinion gears looked like:
Note: This isn't a photo of the subi LSD. I found it on google, infact it came from the thread you started Jon.
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You are correct. So I benefit from using he lighter differential AND because I went to a newer (2004) "K" type r180, the differential is a 4 pinion diff as compare to the older r180's which are 2 pinion.You also have the bonus of less weight in the rear due to the R180 vs R200 so that will be worth a bit and I am sure this centre and axles will be more than strong enough for a lot of the engines we hybridz'er run.
Yeah it was more like $65 for each CV case. And that's also because I've done business with the guy before. I also had my 280z bellhousing machined out to fit my 240sx 5 speed gearbox. I think he charged me $100 alone for that. So in total it was about $220-$240.$100 for machining and welding? That's cheap!I'll wash the car sometime this week and take some good photos of the setup in the car.
CV's together your pretty well all done. Here is a picture of them in the car after about 3000 miles:
Subaru Sti R180 differential and Axle conversion. (Revised)
in Drivetrain
Posted
Seems you have a "Know it all" machinist on your hands. The welds are a uniform all the way around, at most being maybe x-amount of mg out of balance.... 2cm from the center of rotation.
I'm surprised he's worried about that on the axles, when there is more severity of out-of-balancing on the wheel/tire combination. Not to mention the back end of my Z is smooth as butter. But no one ever wants to be liable, which stands to reason. I had the same "safety" issue when I wanted to have a driveshaft shop weld on new universals on the steering rod. Sorry it didn't work out for you, good luck!