[OG still rockin the RB26....]

Sorry to butt in like this, Where did you guys buy your RB's? I am currently looking to purchase one for my Z.

[Cannot Get Clutch to Engage. 77' 280z]

Hello all,

    I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder's on my 1977 280z and bled the system, the clutch fork moves about 1/2 of an inch however the clutch does not engage at all. Any ideas on what my next step should be?

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

Check your AFM plugs.  Something might be loose.

 

Clutch:  it may be that the little pivot the fork sits on needs to be adjusted, when you look under there and have someone step on the clutch, how far does the fork move?

Checked the AFM Plugs they appear to be connected (they do not snap just kind of sits) [all of my plugs are like this, AFM TPS, Injectors] 

 

The fork moves about 1/2 to 3/4 inches when the slave pushes it. I have pictures on my phone but I need a new battery to get them off.

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

I had to ask the smallest girl I knew if she could reach up there and attach the vacuum line. Ten seconds before she arrived I managed to slip the line onto the water cock.

"line onto the water cock" mhm

 

But, honestly there is not any room up in there!!!

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

New Update:

Swapped the AFM boot and now the car will not start up.... I am not sure what the problem is.... Damn finicky EFI system!!!! :/

Replaced Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder and Bled the lines... clutch still is not engaging so I guess it is clutch time. (woohoo?) 

I guess this is the Z life? lol.

 

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

I had to ask the smallest girl I knew if she could reach up there and attach the vacuum line. Ten seconds before she arrived I managed to slip the line onto the water cock.

Called the girlfriend over! She got it done quick! (little hands!)

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

I had a similar problem on my '76 which turned out to be the computer. It would idle fine, but if you touched the gas pedal, it would kill the engine. I did go through every test in the EFI Bible and was lucky enough to find a computer on Craigslist for $20 which fixed the problem. Note: There are different ECM's for different years that aren't interchangeable.

The ECM is good al the tests came back positive and the injectors ground out nicely. Thanks though!!

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

I had a similar problem on my '76 which turned out to be the computer. It would idle fine, but if you touched the gas pedal, it would kill the engine. I did go through every test in the EFI Bible and was lucky enough to find a computer on Craigslist for $20 which fixed the problem. Note: There are different ECM's for different years that aren't interchangeable.

The ECM is good al the tests came back positive and the injectors ground out nicely. Thanks though!!

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

I would get a new boot , not that pricey . Not much room to work with under dash , get a small kid to do it for you . LOL .

LOL :^) Im 19 and its a pain!

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

PO murdered the vacuum system. Bought all new vacuum line yesterday 6 feet of every size hope this is enough. And some black silicone to attempt to repair the afm boot. Thank you guys for all the help!

 

ALSO. Is there an easy way to put the clutch pedal clevis pin back in???? Jeez or is it some sick initiation ritual?

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

Quick update, tps and afm are fine. I suspect it is the afm boot as it is cracked.

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

You may want to check the TPS if it is working. You can open it up and see if you accelerate , the flap should leave the idle contacting point and touch the accelerate flap. If it doesn't touch, try use to screw driver to make contacting point and twist the throttle to see if it still stumble. My Z has same issue until I found out the TPS never touch the WOT posi

I will check this out when I get home and post the results and take some photos!

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

Too wordy.  Try to simplify.

When the car is cold it will rev up strong but it seems to hit a "wall" When the car starts to warm up it will not stay running.

 

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

Have you done basic maintenance or do you know if all the basics have been replaced? Dizzy cap,rotor, belt, oil change, rad fluid? are the grounds and connectors nice and clean? Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail? that could cause it to cut out as well.

Distributor cap, plugs and wires, oil + filter, radiator flush, gas tank flushed cleaned and sealed, Haven't checked the grounds nor connectors I will have a go at that tonight. Fuel pressure at the rail (right before it after the filter) is around 34 psi.

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

Will do later tonight when I get off of work, It was red, I have no idea why they painted it orange (house paint at that) After I get it running the plan is to go white with it. It was a steal at $200 

[1977 280z Got it Running.]

     Hey all, long time reader and lurker here on the HybridZ forums. Always had a dream to buy and build a S30 series. Finally bought one. 1977 EFI 280z. When I got it it wasn't running, messed around with the ignition system and sure enough the PO had the firing order backwards, then fixed the fuel problem (new lines / fuel pump).
    Now here is the dilemma, it idles fine and has correct fuel pressure. However, it doesn't want to rev up. The tachometer is either unhooked or broken I am not sure. So I cannot tell you when it cuts out exactly. I have the FSM and EFI Bible!
    
Thanks guys look forward to getting to know all of you.

-Brendan