83turbo280zx

and i also wasn't saying it nose dove before i put these Big brakes on, i was just saying it doesn't nose dive like a severly front biased brake system would.

Hmm, even with dual pistons? Well I may have to reconsider what I'm doing for rear brakes then. maybe for now EBC pads and drilled/slotted rotors will suffice in the rear until I can do more research. Well maybe what you're saying nose diving is and what i'm saying it is are different. I'm referring to a vehicle that has no rear brake actuation at all. I've driven several s30s with 4x4 brakes up front, stock drums in the back w/ the stock master and stock proportioning valve that had no rear brake actuation at all after the swap. Now whether its because a. introducing clean fluid into the brake system caused the proportioning valve to hang and send all braking power to the front, or there's more fluid displacement in the fronts now that the rears don't grab until after the fronts start to. Who knows. Or drive any tahoe or chevy truck that still has rear drums that are WAYY out of adjustment (which essentially creates a WAY greater front brake bias). Thats what I was getting at. The nose dive created from the front brakes actuating before the rears because of a severly front biased system.

Yes i am really enjoying it! I will try and find those links, i found them through different Z forums when i was researching months before i bought the kit. Anywho, i was planning on using a z32 rear caliper setup in the rear, i found someone that bolted it right on to the factory control arm, i haven't mocked it up yet to see if it uses the stock rotor, or uses the z32 rotor re-drilled, and what pad selection. But yes i will eventually attack the rears too and I can agree with you on the basis that front brakes do you no good if you leave the stock rears on. Although the current bias is more than acceptable, there's never anything wrong with further improvements

Well i read into that with the 4x4 setup. Dave @ AZC said this was a bolt on and go setup. Especially with the ZX 15/16" master. I'd imagine the same amount of fluid displacement would take place between 4 smaller pistons versus one big piston on the ZX stock calipers. The 4x4 calipers however are massive. Dave does offer an adjustable proportioning valve for i'm guessing the older Z's that originally had drum brakes. But since mine came factory with 4 wheel disc, it hasn't been an issue. It doesn't nose-dive like an unproportioned vehicle would behave. Its extremely smooth, great engagement, very positive pedal feel and no grabbing or locking up issues. I read a write-up that dave wrote a while back about fluid hydraulics. It really made sense of the whole bigger isn't necessarily better. Just because the piston is a certain size has no indication of the actual fluid power behind it, which is what makes this kit superior to the 4x4 brakes.

Ok so I've gotten to the point where bigger brakes is becoming a bigger and bigger issue with my car. I'm able to accelerate very fast, need to slow down just as fast so I bought the "entry level" Big brake kit from Arizona Z Car. Its the Wilwood 4 piston caliper w/ the 12.2" diameter rotor. I paid $826 shipped to my door. Came in the box, was very well packaged, Dave was very informative on the phone and very friendly. Had a little hiccup on getting the product shipped out to me, but wasn't his fault, just the way things go when running a business of your own. Nonetheless I was impressed with the packaging and quality of the parts right out of the box. Now his website states that these brakes will clear 15" wheels minimum. This is true, just not for the stock 15" turbo wheels on the 280zx. They have a drop center that will hit the front of the caliper. So you can either get 1" thick wheel adapters, or do it right and get bigger wheels. So i opted for some 16x8 XXR 532s which I am very pleased with. Will have another write up on how to modify the factory center caps to fit the XXR wheels. Anywho, the installation is very straight forward if you're handy with tools. If not here are a few things that you may want to take note of for a smooth install. Of course with upgrading wheels, I had to get longer wheel studs because the stock mag wheel lugs will not work with aftermarket wheels. Tuner lugs don't thread in far enough with the stock studs. The rear studs are longer than the front studs on the 280zx, so you won't have to upgrade the rears if you're on a budget. I did all 16. I used Dorman part # 610-320 from O'reilly Auto parts, they are approx 12-13mm longer than the stock ones. Remove all the old brake stuff INCLUDING the splash shield, Keep or discard this depending on your preference. Use an impact driver $11.99 @ O'reillys, this way the rusted bolts will come out without stripping the phillips head. Once you get the rotor swapped over to the hub, install the caliper bracket bolts into the spindle with the bolt head facing outward towards the rotor. If you do this the other way, the lock nut will hit the rotor and wont turn. Use one washer with the supplied bolts. Once you get the bolts in, put the rotor on, pack the bearings and tighten. You will now push the bolts back into the rotor so you can get the caliper bracket and caliper assembly (leave them bolted together) onto the spindle. Before you put the caliper assembly on, put one washer on the other side of the bolt on each bolt, to shim the caliper assembly and center the caliper. You also want to remove the brake pads as this makes it easier to get into place. Tighten everything, then run your brake line, and put your brake pads in. Bleed all the air from the top two bleeders. There is no sense in bleeding the bottom bleeders other than to get clean fluid through the caliper as air rises and you will never get air out of the bottom bleeders. Get everything bolted, tight, and bled, and go for a drive. I noticed right away the HUGE difference in braking ability. It grabs MUCH better than the stock boat anchor system. I had a problem with it pulling hard left under heavy braking with the stock system. Between the stiffer braided lines, and the fixed caliper, There is definitely more braking force for less pedal effort. You will definitely be able to out-brake most cars on the road so be careful when braking in traffic lol. It will require a lot less pedal effort to get the same amount of braking as the old stock setup. I am VERY satisfied with the results of this brake setup and wouldn't flinch to suggest this to anyone looking into a brake upgrade. I feel that brakes should be something you spend the utmost attention and care to. You should NEVER skimp out on something that could save your life one day. One of the biggest reasons I picked this brake setup over the Toyota 4x4 brake upgrade. I've read numerous reviews over it being somewhat of a spongy setup and having to play with proportioning and everything, I said screw that. Dave has been working on Z car brake systems for a long time and he definitely knows what he's doing. Would EASILY recommend this brake upgrade to any Z car owner out there.

i have a turbo coil and CHTS. For those i'll let both go for $40 shipped. Also have the turbo ignitor, as well as a plug and play HEI swap w/ a Borg Warner chip, $50 for the HEI swap, $10 for the stock ignitor. email me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested also have a turbo AFM, dunno if you need one.

need a turbo AFM or turbo downpipe? i have both if interested email me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

I've got one that came off a running 81. e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested. $80 shipped if you're in the Continental US

I've got one, $15 shipped. email me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested -Chris

i have a freshly rebuild p90 non hydraulic, was machined at a well known japanese engine machine shop. $250 plus shipping email me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

I have a turbo wiring harness, complete off of a 82 turbo. E-mail me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

i have a dizzy and driveshaft out of a 82 turbo, $200 shipped e-mail me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

I've got an aluminum intercooler pipe 10" long with a greddy type s/rs blow off valve flange welded onto it. $25 shipped if interested. E-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

Oh and I also have a 81 ZX distributor if interested also. Good working order. $55 shipped email me sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net Thanks!

I've got a t-stat housing, $25 shipped e-mail me if interested @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net Thanks!

I've got a good working CAS out of a 86. $40 shipped email me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net Thanks!

i've got the TO bearing collar. $20 shipped if interested. E-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net Thanks!

Thanks man! Yea I'd been wanting to try it for a while, just didn't want to take of a good looking lip in place of one I didn't know how the turn-out would be. But since it was damaged, that was my que lol.

yea i need to get out with a real camera and not use my phone lol

Thanks to my friend Pablo over at Tandem Automotive. His muffler flew off while we were going down I-20 to the Park n Ride meet and ran straight into my lower valance and front bumper. So he paid to have my front bumper repainted, and I had the idea of trying a 280z lip on my 280zx, so I had him order me a s30 lip for me to see if it would fit. I like the aftermarket lips for the s30s better than I do for the s130s so I figured I'd give it a try. Well the ZX i found out the hard way is 8" wider than the 280z. So i had to cut the lip straight down the middle and extend it. Thankfully the lip was fiberglass, so I just added some aluminum strips to make it rigid, and added fiberglass sheets to it, and filled the small gaps with a touch of bondo. I'm fairly pleased with the way it turned out, the only spot you can tell there was fiberglass work done is the top part of the area i extended. I kept finding air pockets in the fiberglass when I was sanding it down to smooth it out, so its kinda patchy with bondo, but other than that, its flush everywhere else. Sorry for the crap cell phone pics. I know I could've done a little better with the body work, but considering I have absolutely no body work experience and this was my first go around, I think I did a decent job

Problem solved. I pulled the plugs, cleaned them and re-gapped to .030". Also edited the noise filtering settings and set it to .1ms and the concern has been solved.

can you e-mail me the specs of the turbo cam? and is it for hydraulic head or non hydraulic? and also what are you looking for in terms of trade? my e-mail is sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net Thanks!! -Chris

check with a test light to make sure you are getting power commanded to excite the starter relay, if not, see if its coming out of the ignition switch. If its not coming out of the switch, and you have power going in, you need a switch. If you're getting a command at the relay but the relay isn't clicking, check for ground. If you have ground, check the relay

would definitely be interested in a reproduction of these emblems. I sourced a complete turbo emblem set from Japan a while back and it was going to cost me $160 shipped by the time currency exchanging was done, etc. etc.

Ok so I recently installed a Megasquirt 2 setup. For the first month I was running just the basic MS2 code, 2.905 B&G Firmware. I got it running really good, got the VE and Timing tables pretty much set, 10psi it would pull to the redline with no problems. I recently switched to the MS2 extra 3.2.3 firmware to run a 16x16 VE table. All of my settings were the same including my timing map, but all of a sudden I couldn't make it to the redline under full boost. I played with some timing options here and there, ended up chaning my dwell settings that I read from another thread on here and that corrected the problem. Now while i'm driving I will get the occasional misfire as I transition into boost. I notice on my laptop on Tunerstudio, the tach will show a spike to 8k rpm as it misfires, then reads normal again. I never had this problem with the ms2 code. Also my rev limiter does not work, even though i have it set to hard limit at 6500 rpms. I am running BPR7ES plugs with .040" gap. Was thinking of switching to .035" but I never had this problem with the old code. I did notice there are a lot more trigger settings with the ms2e code, so maybe I'm not running the correct trigger settings? I have my offset set to 83 degrees like on my old ms2 B&G code and that was perfect, showed 12 degrees base timing at idle on the timing light which is where I wanted it. I am also not using any noise filtering options as I wanted to get more information on it before I started playing with it. Here are pictures of my current settings under spark settings, etc. etc. Any info would be greatly appreciated!! General Settings Ignition Options More Ignition Options Rev Limiter Settings