Virussuriv

You sir is top ace in my books thank you for the info Digging a little deeper seems like getting a hold of L14 rods is the hardest part of it. The diff in the lenght is the only thing that can separate this from the L24 rod (correct me if i am wrong) As for now i am trying to find specific info on the piston's Pin. Height and dish volume BTW with the L24 rods the math seems very nice Rod Ratio = Rod Length / Crank Stroke Length L14 rod length = 136.5mm Crank stroke length = 83.0mm Rod ratio = 136.5/83.0 = 1.644

So i was doing my annual research on the stroker kit and landed for some reason in the wiki page. In wich they mentioned that "Without increasing bore size, fitting an L28 with the longer stroke LD28 crank will only result in 2.9L. In Japan and other parts of the world the popular "poormans mod" was the 3 mm~ overbore using the 89 mm ~ 90 mm Honda FT-500 / XL-500 motorcycle pistons along with the L14 rods. The real poorman would use the much cheaper/heavier 89 mm FJ20 or even KA24 engine pistons. All of these were cast pistons and had low endurance and would often fail when subjected to high compression and advanced ignition timing compared to custom forged pistons" So i did i search in here and nothing, looked at my How to Mod.... (the bible for l28 mods) and found nothing. The question is has someone really has done this or is this is another wiki error any input would be greatly appreciated, cause looking at the piston and it does not seem like is hard to find specially with an overbore of 89 and the 90 mm. They sure will be expensive to buy six of them but they really intrigue me as they look really well made. Anyways heres a pic of one of them taken from ebay

my experience doing this with dry ice ... i used to get 40 to 50 pounds free of my work .... a couple years ago when i used to work in a health food store.. btw if u have a friend that works in a grocery store he can probly get u free dry ice ... i mean its only used to keep the frozen items frozen then they are discarded. but if u smash the dry ice with a hammer and place the flakes on top of the dead... stuff it will come out fast ... i guess is cause as u smash the dry ice it starts to evaporate and gets a hell lot colder this way. doing it this way it only took a few seconds on each big section on my 280zx and i didnt even had to bang it forom the bottom just at the top and it came out clean. hope this will help some of you.

I must say Mad skills ..... I work at a truck (the big ones) body shop and even tough we dont spent that munch time on sanding and such ive always wanted to get a paint job just like that on a peterbuilt classic .... tough our only goal is to not have runs thats all. i know theres a lot of time u must put on a paint job to not get a ny orange peel and mirror finish .. so mad props to you for showing us how to really show love to our Z's i am looking foward to see the finnish produc so dont forget to take day & night pictures

Thanks for clarification tough isnt it posted that some parts will fit the vg30dett i think that intake is the exact one ive seen on the z history movie ...

Ive Been looking for this type of info and pics for quite some time now (GTP engine build and such) and last night i came across this web page called rece-cars.com where they had in archive someone from AU selling a GTP VG30dett engine wich had been sold =( but the pics can be usefull for anyone with the skills to actually understand what was inside this engines and the intake .... well it has always been an intresting piece hence i heard that the stock plenum is good and such... would had posted the pics but dont wanna take away this guys stuffs so heres the link http://www.nissanracingengines.com.au/main%20page.html perhaps someone out there will understand those camshaft specs sheets ... cause i dont lol