flibuoy
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Posts posted by flibuoy
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Thanks everyone for the sales pitch for my 260Z project in classified section!
John
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I ran that carb on a warm 350. Took it our of box, bolted it on, set idle mixture and speed and drove it 5 years on my first HybidZ. Easy to work on as stated above if needed, though once it is cleaned up good I bet you are very pleased. Of course there won't be as much fiddling as with Holley if that's what you want. I did not run a regulator by the way...mechanical at 5#.
John
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I drove my first 240Z/350/700R4 for 5 years...everyday.. in Houston. I got it with Scarab position and went to JTR immediately as well as 700R4 with overdrive locked out except in 4th to replace 350 (winds up at 60mph). This car was A/C and had mild cam, headers, intake, carb etc that was pretty stout. 200 rear with trial of both 3:55 and 3:90. Absolutely dead reliable...family has Camries so I know about reliable. It was in build and details...junk won't commute for long no matter what it is. Oh...don't forget...my second Hybrid is for sale....John
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Not an LS but have LT in League City...in storage awaiting finishing...be happy to show it and talk about common FI problems like fuel and in this area A/C. Of course it is for sale too....John
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This may be bad form to use this forum...but... my 90% plus Z is in the classifieds without any inquiries. I do need to sell and ad doesn't fully list/describe completeness. I do not wish to E-Bay if it can go to a good home to someone here at HybridZ and I travel too much to list in local paper and answer questions like "is it a 4 door?". My cell is 281-734-0728 and I would be happy to chat about it/arrange specific photos etc. Oh...for you gold diggers the E-Bay reserve will be higher than asking here on HybridZ.
John
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On third set of plugs in a row trying to diagnosis running problem...all correct for LT1/all different manufacturers/gaps experimented with and caused no change. All eight, on all tries, are showing exactly the same results
I don't want to give symptoms...just appearance of plugs after just few minutes installed...to keep from influencing your opinions
Plug stays clean..as new.. on one side of tip....rich soot on other half. Not half tip to bottom/bottom to tip...but half as in left/right sides. Transition from white to fuzzy black is not gradual, but almost a clear straight line.
I have read every article I could find on plugs...not even a close match to this appearance.
Ideas?
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I am in the el cheapo bracket...that stock clutch in a Z should be just fine for a long time if not continually abused....perhaps the clutch is not fully engaging due to linkage adjustment....I have stock 305 clutch/flywheel on LT1 5.7 and it is fine John
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You might try a search on my name as I have submitted at times on A/C.
The stock LT1 mounts will not work...hit frame. Bad news...good news is that Street and Performance in Mena AR has what you need...bad news around $800 plus a Sandel compressor...just over $200. I used the Hot Rod Air evaporator and parts which are nearly identical to Vintage and their largest evaporator fits like a charm. Total cost was around $1400 with tri function switch on dryer, controls, hoses etc. If you decide to go this way you can email me as needed. John
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Reread my post...maybe I wasn't clear enough....MC=master cylinder
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Aha...the fly in the ointment...the Datsun and Ford MC rods are different and Datsun end doesn't fit Ford...I used Ford rod with a SINGLE Heim end at clutch arm I happened to have. I think a better solution is search out Ford compatible fork. If rod length is set too short you won't have enough travel after bleeding so it seems like the setup is not working...leave end attached to arm and adjust the rod....way easier than cutting hand to half size so it fits in openings down there. Long nose pliers worked for me. John
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I used the Ford half ton pickup master cylinder. Sorry on year...mid eigthties...it fits center hole perfectly with rubber boot in place. One bolt hole has to be elongated outwards and one is perfect. The hose that goes with the MC also fits the slave on T5, even is about right length. It come with o rings and I think new roll pins. Pedal feel, release etc is fine...like factory wanted it to be. I misplaced the #s and in past I had emailed them to some members so perhaps one of them will respond. The thing is plastic and is probably filled with helium it is so light! Use caution routing hose as it too is plastic and attracted to headers. Price was very reasonable...maybe $80 range for both...the MC is probably a stocked item so you can carry your old one in to compare if nobody sends # in for us. Hope this helped...John
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I have a set on my LT1, but really was disappointed with lengths and size of boots on plug ends...nice color though. I have a random miss and suspect a plug or wires. I did a search...thank goodness for being able to say that! It seems that I have heard of some problems with core breaking down with ok external appearance. Accel? John
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Maybe I'll try a clip. The ones I have experience with... the single exhaust flowmaster stocker through true dual big cam engine all seem to sound very similar and not enough definition to form opinion....volume is not a constant from clip to clip also. Maybe when I retire....naw maybe sooner John
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I have JTR setup with T5, motor mount holes are slotted as above also. I put adapter yoke in position, slid front of chev driveshaft into transmission and measured universal joint center to center...mine came in at 19 1/4....measure twice cut once as the carpenters say. My shaft was cut, new quality chev yoke welded in to replace the press in/welded factory end, balanced, new unversals installed and back in my hands in about an hour while I watched. John
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Just picked up my LT1 after 2 1/2" dual exhaust installed from block huggers to 2 2 1/2 Flowtech "afterburners". Had oxy bungs placed in the bend just off collectors. Good install really, both oil filter and starter accessible without needing trick tools. Tuck up nicely.
The mufflers are compact and appear well made. Installer and I agree they are similar to small Flowmaster in noise level but sound crisper without the deep resonance. I would have chosen quieter...but of course I had already bought and supplied these to replace wee generic ones. Did bring out a grin
I had posted a year or more ago asking about these, never got an opinion, so this represents mine. John
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Mexia is a "fer piece" from Houston. I did a search (sound familiar?) and came up with a good place to start in Houston area...hope they are a help
http://www.delsplating.com/coatingservices.htm
John
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I think your intake plumbing is just what I need....have similar routing now from bits and pieces of Lowes stuff, dryer hose etc....would you mind taking a minute to detail yours for us? Numbers...source etc? Stuff like this is what makes a driver a driver. John
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My first 240 swap I had (came w/car) the rear bar in, drove a few months and decided too "twitchy", took bar out, much more benign street driving particularly in rain. This car (260) I have left stock rear bar in with loose older rubber bushings and front bar with poly bushings set snug. I'll compare the 3 combinations soon I hope and let list know my opinion on latest.
Oh, if you recognize the name it is because my LT1 was giving me fits with no starts...well....this morning I fired it....gotta hook up hoses, bleed clutch and go to paint/exhaust shops....whew a LONG process...learne dmore than I wanted to! John
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Oh happy days.....
Just fired it.....held throttle full open....fired right off....and I had suspected TOO MUCH air! Once it fired it was very smoooth and eased down to near a stable idle, but had to shut off after few seconds since no water in it at all. Pick up lower hose later today I ordered and get water in it and I believe I can lick anything minor that shows up. I feel same about IAC as you noted...may not be good idle quality but should not prevent start....there is possiblity that MAP vacuum source was plugged....there was loose gasket material from old gasket in top of throttle body under the plate...hmmm
John
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solid 12 volts in crank...it trys to start in start position, no change as key released
note the injectors are brand new from SLP
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This is probably easy for someone:
Engine is 94 w/Painless harness, ECM has VATS removed
Engine sat over 2 years but was running when donor hit.
Cranks and almost starts.....not quite enough of ?, sorta like a cold carbed engine with no choke, acts lean
new:complete Delco opti, coil, ICM, wires, plugs
test ok: MAP, MAF, TPS, various circuits, fat spark at plugs, noid light OK on all injectors
fuel pressure 45#, drops a bit on crank, raises if return blocked
no obvious vacuum leaks
questioning the IAC which appears very dirty, stuck or stiff. Does the IAC have enough input to prevent the start? No default value for limp home as other sensors? Too lean a mixture can come from not enough pulse width too I imagine, but this should be ECM controlled. Easy way to answer is to get a new IAC but you see list of "new" above that did not answer. $$$ If that isn't fix then ?
The list knows I have been ready to finish swap a LONG time, but for the failure to start... John
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I had been a Holley person for 20+ years until I put an Eldebrock Performer on a warm 355. Had all the tools ready....prepared for several test blasts....took it out of box...started it up...set idle and drove it 6 years...of course a larger Holley probably would have provided several horsepower over 5K RPM...this one was decent on gas, good response and absolutely troublefree...no power valve blowouts...no nothing. Maybe I was just lucky. John
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I asked the same question some months ago and received the same answers you have received so far!
Both points you mention are sources...the aftermarket harness I have has a dedicated "tach" wire that comes off the red 13 and is noted as the "cleanest" signal". I am prepared to add/delete resistance and adjust through slot in back of tach...I doubt it will miraculously be correct and steady.
Again, addressing grounds...ALL grounds in the entire aftermarket harness are joined to a single ground within the harness, to then be a single ground to battery ground...just be sure chassis/engine/pcm grounds are all good then the single point is apparently OK idea.
There are some really well versed folks on the list...LT1s are becoming more common as is the LS....it is just that sometimes they miss the post..or figure somebody will answer John
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sleeper...external changes subtle and "coulda been stock", color "coulda been stock"...although Zs look great in almost any color...especially bright...I like sleeper coulda been stock don't bother the nice policeman
sleeper means anything goes under skin..more is better...too much is almost enough... but retain good handling/brakes so it is fun and safe to drive in spite of lots more power than needed.
My first Hybrid always amazed everyone who found out it was no stocker, that was an amusing reaction everytime. Even the interior was stealth "coulda been stock"
John
260/LT1/T5 has good home
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Well I just deleted my HybridZ classified ad. No...I am not going to Ebay the car.
It sold to a member of this list who is Kuwait after his tour in Iraq before returning home to Dallas area in a couple months. His dad and a couple gearhead friends hope to complete the project before then.
If he shows up asking questions do you best for him John