G Gress

I race a Legends car with a Yamaha FJ 1200 engine. An adapter on the sprocket shaft allows the engine to be turned 90 degrees from the way it was in the bike so the adapter can be attached to the driveshaft. It works in an 1120 lb. car, but double that, I don't think so. The clutch runs in the same oil as the engine and tranny and it is going to slip alot. We run aftermarket clutches and still have a lot of slip at 90 mph and above increasing the oil temps at the same time. Save it for something lighter.

Bought a car that must have been sitting under a pine tree for months. There are drops of pitch all over the horizontal surfaces of the body and they are hard as rock. I tried bug and tar remover, WD-40 and mineral spirits to no avail. I plan to repaint anyway but the paint is good enough to get by for awhile but I may just try lacquer thinner on a small area. Any other suggestions?

I've tried a search with no results. I'm thinking dry ice blasting may be the way to go to remove undercoating, rust and paint in the nooks and crannies. Sand/soda blasting seems to just smear rubber around. Talked to the ice guys today, but they had never tried blasting undercoating but did say it worked well on sticky glues and adhesives. Anyone tried it yet?

Paul, no you don't need a return line. Your 6psi pump will just think the surge tank is a carb.

P.S. T-Bird center sections are cast iron, Lincoln MarkVIII and Cougar are aluminum. Ford is supposed to have a new aluminum center with traction-loc for 600 bucks, but I haven't checked.

The cobra boys use them quite a bit, center section, half shafts and uprights from a T-Bird supercoupe. Supposedly the ones with a driver side cv-shaft diameter of 1.2" are the strongest. Factory Five Racing (cobras) has an option for the T-Bird rear that comes with shortened cv-shafts or Moser Engineering will shorten and re-spline for $100. I believe? FFR has a turbo 5.0 running in the 10's with that rear. I like all the ratios and lsd choices for that one.

You should be able to make it fit without too much trouble. I like the idea of a 250 -300 hp motor with mild manners, would make for a great daily driver.

Hey RacerX You said in another post that the SHO engine was kinda heavy. Any idea what it really weighs? Seems like it should be fairly light, all aluminun though the intake looks heavy. Was just looking thru an old Race Tech mag with an article on Ford Duratech V6 for SR2 racing, very similar to SHO, without accesories but with custom water pump and dry sump oil pumps and flywheel 265 lbs.

Thats great if you live somewhere you can find a turbo engine. There are none in this part of the country.

30 over is .030" (thirty thousandths) not tenths. You cannot bore a 305 .300"

Heavy We were pulling a 16' fiberglass with 85hp Merc No were near light.

Thanks John, I know what you are saying, and I would love to run 50-15s, but 225s seem a bit narrow for a relatively light car with 400ft/lbs. torque. Anything wider in a decent tire is impossible to find short of Hoosiers and thats why I'm looking at the 17s. Thanks, Greg Gress

John I plan on a bunch of suspension work. Want to build a car around the tires, but need to start with the right size tires in the first place. I'm not lost around suspension setups, but most of my experience is with circle cars, same size tires mandated all around. Thanks

Question for you V-8 guys. Thinking about running 275-40 17s on the rear, for the best handling should I run the same on the front also or go smaller in the front. BTW I realize I will need flares

I was just watching them on speed channel. The Fords were running what appeared to be -4 to -5 degrees camber, seemed like an awful lot for a purpose built race car. The Holdens looked more like -2 to -3, a little more realistic. Then the announcer comes on and says that the Fords have the better front suspension design, sure didn't look like it to me.