DavidBoren

Thank you for the feedback and links. Upon realizing how severely I underestimated what it takes to get 250rwhp out of an L-engine, be it the L24 I have, or any L28 I could pick up, I think a swap is more in order. It would be easier, both financially and mechanically, to just drop in a powerplant producing the ponies I need/want. I did want to keep the numbers matching block/head out of vanity. And the same vanity drives me towards an RB-swap, just to keep it all in the Nissan family. I will probably pick up a RB25DET with transmission from JDM for about $1,500. And a McKinney Motorsports 240z-RB-swap kit for $500. I want to find a RB26DETT, but so does everyone else, and so they are hard to find and expensive when you do. However, I really do like how three cylinders feed each turbo. I would love to build an odds-and-evens inline six turbo set up with the odd cylinders exhaust feeding a turbo that feeds the even cylinders intake, and even's exhaust feeding a turbo feeding the odd intakes. Anyways, thanks again for all the input. Looks like I will be moving over to RB engine side of this forum for the rest of my inquires.

I am a huge fan of the 2jz motor. Which is loved and respected for being a tiny little engine capable of being a reliable 10,000rpm/1,000hp monster. It is an inline six. And it has a square bore/stroke ratio. I do not want to rev up to 10k. I do not want 1,000hp for my 240z. I was just using the basic principle of that engine as a building point for the one in my Fairlady. Seeing that everyone and their brother borrow freely from one L-engine to another, to create hybrid strokers and everything else imagineable with the combination of parts available, I thought maybe someone has done something similar. I honestly do not know which cam to get. Maybe the L20A cam is too small. I would like a more aggressive cam. I would. I can go aftermarket if I have to. And probably will. I had read somewhere that L20A cam was a little more aggressive. I obviously read wrong. As for the valves, I do plan on having the head thoroughly ported and polished, and larger valves installed. Probably the largest ones that I can find that will fit. My goal is to get the engine producing a reliable 10+hp per pound. Curb weight, that means I need 220rwhp. Race weight would be closer to 2450lbs, so I am really wanting closer to 250rwhp. I do not think that I am asking too much. I know The Purist engine build boasts similar power figures. I also know that a respected racing company does that build. I am hoping to do most of this in my garage, as my first real project car... not send my powerplant off to get built for me. I know it would probably be easier to just drop in a 2jz-gte stand alone crate motor. But I have a numbers matching 1970 FairladyZ, and I thought it would be cool to keep the block and head casting original. Well, the head would be ported and polished, but still the same chunk of metal that was in the car when it left the factory. Just looking for a super fun, quasi-classic car that I can autocross when I feel squirrelly.

I have asked a similar question regarding making a totally square bore/stroke (83mm X 83mm) L24, and was directed towards the ozdat engine calculator. Thank you, by the way, that was very helpful. Now that I know what I am looking for, I want to know if anyone has a similar build. Is anyone running anything comparible to this: L24 block with stock 83mm bore, LD28 crank with 83mm stroke, L20A 128mm conrods, E31 head, L20A cam. According to ozdat, I would be looking at 2.7L (2.694) displacement at 9.854:1 compression. Bore/stroke ratio of 1:1, rod/stroke ratio of 1.542:1, with a maximum rod angle of 18.918*. To be perfectly honest, I do not know if those numbers are good or bad. I do want a compression ratio close to 10, as I will be using 91+ octane fuel. And I like the square bore/stroke ratio. But the rod angle seems a little steep, and the rod/stroke ratio seems a little low. Any help, insight, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, in advance, for any productive input.