socal73HS30
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About socal73HS30
- Birthday 05/14/1987
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San Diego, CA
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Im researching as much about MS and wiring it up before i dive headfirst into my engine bay. My question is, since an IAC valve is optional, how many have used it and is it worth the extra effort to install? I have MS2 pcb3 board. L28et into '72 240z, mostly stock motor. If you used one, let me know why you chose the type you did (stepper or fast idle valve). how did you install it for your application? I already used the search function and couldnt find the information I was looking for. If this topic has been covered, perhaps you would be so kind as to point me out the thread? Thanks!
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hey, im located in the san diego area and recently bought a set of zg flares for my z. i'm wondering if anyone local has a z with them installed and would be willing to let me look at how they installed them? ive been following the stickied guide, but want to reassure myself by looking at someone else's finished work before i go hacking up my fenders with a disc grinder. let me know please/thankyou
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i guess the idea is to remove oil weight from the crankshaft so that it isnt as cumbersome at high rpms. the same friend who told me about it said he put one on his race z back in the day, and saw some hp goin from it. now, i dont know much about the car that it was put on, or exactly how much hp was gained. all i really know is that he built the car for terry allen of terry allen datsun down here in san diego. and that the car was a 3.1 stroker with turbo blowing thru 3 mikunis. he said it was at 450 hp or something. but seeing as i wasnt even born yet, all i can tell you is what he's told me. and he doesnt talk about it much. but, long story short, they do work, but you probably wouldnt see a noticeable unless its a fully built race motor. in which case the extra cost for the scraper and windage tray wouldn't be a big deal. i asked him if it would be a worthwhile investment for my street motor, and he said i probably wouldnt even know it was there. and in a motor like his, everything is done, even polishing the inside of the block for better oil drainage.
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hmm, ill have to find out where he was going to buy it, but my friend found a guy who made a dual layered crank scraper. the first layer, a metal layer close to the crank to get the majority of the oil. but then also a teflon layer fit to the crank that would wear to fit the crank for a very close wipe. dunno if the second layer is standard practice as far as scrapers go cause i've never bought one. if you want me to find out the maker, ill ask him again for you.
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RB25det or SR20det in S30
socal73HS30 replied to FastRabbit24's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
my vote would be RB. and, Armand your car looks really sweet. mine's that stock z-orange and i thought it could never look good. yours makes me think twice. beautiful. -
thank you, and you as well. i'd like to see what kinds of ideas you come up with in your swap. helps the creativeness (or intellectual plunder, however you wanna look at it).
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it all depends on how much money you want to put in. personally, i dont know if an l28 can handle that kind of hp on stock internals. my guess would be no. but even if it could, i'd spend the money and replace the internals anyway. i'd rather be safe than sorry. also, upgrading to turbo depends on your car setup already. will you have to buy a new fuel pump? pressure regulator? how nice do you want it to look? it's all money, and how much you are willing to spend to make it right. ... which is the stage i'm at. look up, research, read, test, ask, etc etc etc. and do my homework before i take any action. there was a 280zxt for sale here in so cal. complete car for $600. i was 1/2 tempted to go buy it for necessary parts. but then i have to think, will i need a bigger turbo than the T3 it came with? do i want a p90a head for the quieter lifters as compared to a p90. the car wouldnt turn over, what is wrong with it before the swap goes in? simple wiring problem or is it something worse like a fried ecu?... so i waited. and part of it is, my z-mentor doesnt know much about the l28et's, all the racing he did with z's was in the late 70's, before the turbo car even came out. all hail the internet? this site was pretty helpful for me for the basics, and in getting a general idea of what could be used from stock and what would need to be upgraded and replaced. http://www.xenons130.com/l28et.html
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hmm, perhaps you should look to see the "childish bratt" who is the first to throw insults. you are the one who came in here "suggesting" that i consider a rotary.... i gave a list of engines that i would consider in my car, and rotary is not on that list. so, without being insulting, i was direct and said... in essence... get with the thread, or gtfo. and while a rotary was suggested before by gritz, he did not directly and deliberately say that i should consider such an engine, whereby forcing his opinions and bias upon me. which you chose to do. so that in and of itself is disrepsectful of me. now, i guess calling names and pissing on others is acting like an adult according to yourself. so maybe you should get younger. cheers
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as far as i'm concerned, they look like crap, sound like crap, i can't work on them, it would be just as expensive a swap as any other, parts are unavailable and/or hard to find (or i can pay mazda dealer prices.. not), not nearly as much resource or market for the engine, not as much R/D on rotary engines... so the engine design is not advancing as rapidly, etc etc etc. i could go all day thinking up reasons for me not to choose a rotary engine, and any one of them is reason enough not to put it in my zcar. sorry, wont even consider it. not a snowballs chance in hell of a rotary in my z.
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EDIT: and this is very clear, there will never be a rotary in the car, that's a fact jack. sorry. i bought the Z so i could learn to work on cars, and a rotary is not conductive to that. budget: not more than 10k. that has to cover everything. engine, engine rebuild, trans, mounting, intake/exhaust upgrades(or mods), fuel pump, ems, fuel regulator, etc. this does not include suspension, brakes, etc. just cost to get the motor, install it, connect it, and get it running and running well. and, depending on the choice, a reasonable power level. im looking for about 300-350hp. which is achievable with all the options i listed (except for maybe the stroker build). of the engines, style played a little part, but as well did brand. i'd prefer to stay nissan. and of the engines, im left with rb or l28. the rb is more right off the bat, and parts are much more expensive and hard to come by. leaving the l28 to be a better option in that respect. although the dohc cross-flow head would look really sweet. and in addition to that, the l28 would give it that nostalgic look, with i do like, leaving me with the feeling that i'm driving a modified z, and not a GTR in a z shell. i had wanted to stay away from v8's because of their weight. but the ls series seemed to remove this problem, and can put out a large amount of power. plus torque, which i'm a big fan of. i included the 2jz because it seemed to be the counterpart to the rb engine. as an option, it had several strikes against it because of it's brand, and cost. but compared to the rb, parts are more attainable, thus making it a little bit more acceptable option. i started looking at the 7M because it cut out the initial cost and also left parts still easier to come by than the rb engines. and finallly the 3.1 (or 3.0) stroker because it would allow me to reuse many of the parts i already have from my current engine/rebuild. and as i said before, i'm a big fan of torque. this was my first choice when is started investigating. i already had an n42 l28 block... which would have to be bored since the cylinders were taper'd and out of round already... so just bore it a bit more for larger pistons. the crank has been ground more than once and doesnt have enough meat left on it to be ground again, so the crank has to be replaced anyway, and then the junkyard replacement would have to be ground, polished, and balanced. my head needs a valve job, but it's already been ported and polished, and the msa cam is still in good shape. so this option is the most cost effective since i already have to do all the work that would be needed to build the stroker. so, in short, 10k engine budget, and i was looking for an inline nissan motor as a first choice. the car has already had a considerable amount of mods that some could be reused, or modified to fit a particular application. thus another incentive for me to go with the l28et. it already has a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system, up to the headers. i could connect that with a msa downpipe and keep the exhaust piping without having to replace the whole system... in theory. whether it will actually work out that way, i dont know. i'll have to look into it a lot more. the suspension is already fairly good, just a few more things i would do but are not major mods... CV halfshaft conversion, rear discs, 300zxt LSD (it already has an r200, so the lsd should just be a bolt in at this point, from what i've read... probably not the case, but i'll deal with it when i find one for a reasonable price. the car shell was a california car, so there is virtually no rust or significant structural problems. so there is no need for money invested there. painting and body work has already been scheduled and it separate from the engine budget. i was intending to look into weber type ITB injection because i don't particularly care for the stock injection manifold, even after it's been cleaned up. i havnt decided what i'm going to do with this, but i'm leaning towards building a custom set of injection runners with a single throttle body that will bolt to my mikuni manifold. and sell the carbs to recoup the construction cost. but budget depending, i may go with the stock injection to a time that i can fabricate such a thing. itll be pretty sweet when i'm finished. i'll start taking pictures as i do the build and make a thread about it.
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i dont really care for the stock intake piping, so the manifolds would probably be redone. dunno about the exaust manifold. yes, true the 2jz was imported quite a bit to the us, and is in a lot of cars besides the supra. but the 2jz compared to the 1jz is the cost, and finding one. parts are likely to be on hand, but its from a newer car... gl finding on at a junkyard. so, im stuck in the dilema of pay more for the better(2j) or slightly less for the 1j, or only a little for the 7m and have a handicap on engine potential. otherwise it's track down a parts car or buy a motor swap from ebay or something. all of which are likely to cost 2k plus just for the engine. so yeah, 7m and 2j would have parts available. but imo, a 7m would be easier to come by than a 2j (or for less damage to the wallet) average price for a 2j on ebay: 1900... with auto trans which i dont want. (only one with manual trans offered is 6500, ouch) 1j swap on ebay w/ manual trans: 2100 7m at the local junkyard next weekend: 600 out the door with manual trans. that leaves 1500+ additional for engine mods and setup. perhaps i'm beating a dead horse here. ive already pulled an l28 from an automatic 2+2 w/ 140k miles and going with the l28et. i'll dream more when i get bored with it.
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the reason i was interested about the 7m over the 1j was, while the 1j makes more power, the 7m seems to be a much more common engine than the 1j. i know the 2j was imported by toyota, but other than the supra mk3, i've never heard of any of the cars it was put into. and the mk3 supras imported into the US had the 7M through 92. so only the jdm supras had that engine. so to me, it seems like an engine, and or replacement parts would be much more expensive and harder to come by for the 1jz. and ya, having a LS swap does have that appeal to it.
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well, perhaps i should stick with an l28. its what i know, its easy, and reasonably cheap. and as far as what is out there, i don't know much (partly to the fact that i've only had the car 2 years, and it's my 1st car). i went to the local junkyard and walked through the toyota section. i was looking at the 6cyl engines and saw a 7m from a supra. looked very similar to the jz's, so i was curious about it. from what i hear; it's cheap ($250 for complete from junkyard) but also parts are cheap cause it was an import older and came in cressida sedans so it's more of a common motor, its a reliable engine stock (aside from the headgasket thing), and made 230hp stock with the single turbo... roughly same power as 1jz. Clifton, what's your take on it? i see u have one. anyone else have some input? only problem i can see is that there isnt much info about it on the net.
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i finished measuring everything and the block is going to have to be bored from piston wear. the crank is also going to have to have the lobes straightened and polished. so, if im gonna have to do that, i might as well have it done to a vo7 stroker crank instead of my stock l28. i found a good deal on one online. that way i can get another job over the summer and really do a nice swap when the time comes... and as someone else said, i can play with the stroker while i build the engine in the garage. as far as engine, im kinda leaning to a l28et, maybe with itbs. have sorta a nostalgic look, decent power with moderate boost, and there is a lot more knowledge out there about the l-series than a 2jz or rb swap.
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suspension is where i like it. i already have tokico illumina adjustable shocks in all 4 corners, toyota truck brake upgrade, steel braided brake lines, ground control stiff springs, polyurethane bushings everywhere, techno toy tuning TC rods, newer Dunlop DZ101 tires on 7x15 JDM 3 piece wheels, 1" front sway bar, datsun competition .75" rear sway bar yeah all the other things would need to be upgraded. most engine swaps already come with the ecm and fuel management control, along with the wiring harness etc. so headers/exhaust, fuel pumps/hoses, custom intake plumping, turbo plumbing/intercooler, etc.