[1973 240Z LS1 Build]

This is interesting... I had done a bunch of XPipe verse HPipe comparisons on a BMW M5 I had, and I thought that the XPipe sounded more refined, less burbly than the HPipe. I'm sure firing order, and other things contribute to this sound, so it may be with the LS1 the HPipe sounds more refined/smooth. Which mufflers were you running in both of your scenarios, and did you run any resonators? My plan is to run oval Borla's with no resonators, only about 12" to 14" long muffler cases.

I ran Dynomax (aka. Walker) oval mufflers like these (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17283/overview/) with both the x-pipe and h-pipe.  No resonators.  These were run on my '70 Nova with a GM 572 crate engine (I really miss that old girl).

[1973 240Z LS1 Build]

The final piece I am researching for the exhaust is the X-pipe.  In the end I understand that it may make no difference which of these I run, but I wanted to see if anyone knew of any reason to buy one of these over the others.

 

I've used both the x-pipe and h-pipe exhaust configurations.  From a sound standpoint (using the same mufflers), the h-pipe gave more of a deep, throaty tone and the x-pipe more of a raspy, gurgly tone.  The h-pipe configuration was MUCH easier to install/remove, especially if you install a flange in the crossover tube. 

[1973 240Z LS1 Build]

Do you mind my asking how much you paid approximately to get your headers coated and who you used?

 

Thanks for posting the JCI header pics.  In the past I've used Jet-Hot to have my headers coated.  For a pair of big-block chevy long tube headers they charged me $350 plus shipping, but that was ~6 years ago.  I've seen pricing from other companies from $250-$400.  So not cheap no matter who you choose, but between the great appearance and especially the under-hood heat reduction (coated outside AND inside) it's worth the coin.

[1973 240Z LS1 Build]

Subscribed and looking forward to following your progress.    I have a 260Z and am following a similar plan.

 

Question:  Do you happen to have a pic of the JCI headers you can post?  I'm trying to decide between the JTR headers (http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT-Z_LS1-Headers.html) and the JCI and would like to see the major differences between the two (with the exception of the primary tube sizes).

 

Thanks,

Dan

[78 280Z LS3 Project]

Thank you Dan,

 

An LS2 260Z build should be nice, not too many of those around.

 

LOL... I know what you mean about the wife complaining, my project has headed a direction it was not intended to go money wise but it is one of those things that I'm too far into it to change gears.

 

 

As for the transmission I personally think the first thing to consider is the purpose or intended use of the car and secondly it is all about personal preference. If you are building a drag racer then I would go with an auto but if you are building a street car to have fun in on the weekends then I would go manual.

 

 

The shim goes behind the slave cylinder. There needs to be a gap of .125" to .200" between the bearing and clutch. If you have less clearance you need to call the clutch manufacturer and discuss it with them as that could cause premature clutch wear but if you have more than .200” than a shim must be added to reduce the spacing. In my case I had .365" gap therefore I fitted a .0180" shim. I have attached a diagram showing where the measurements are taken. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the clutch/throwout bearing info.  I know an auto will be an easier install, but a manual trans will be so much more fun to drive....  I've been on the lookout for a used/rebuildable T56 for the past few months, but so far no luck.

 

What are your plans for the engine harness/ECM?

[78 280Z LS3 Project]

First off, what an OUTSTANDING BUILD!!!   I'm new here, but have been lurking for a while. I'm still in the "research" phase of my 260z/LS2 build and your thread has given me tons of great info.  When my wife starts complaining about the $$$$ I'm spending, I'm going to point her to your thread to show how bad it could've been.

 

<snip> but could not fit the transmission because I need to add shims. </snip>

 

I'm still on the fence whether to go with an auto or manual, but can you explain where shimming is necessary with the T56?  I have experience rebuilding/installing Muncie's and TKO 5-speeds, but have never messed with a T56.

 

Keep up the GREAT WORK!

 

Dan