240zBoy

Mounted correctly. Best assumption is not having a return line hooked up but it is possible debris got through the filter. Getting that tank down will tell me more there. Many people have had the same problem as me deadheading these red pumps and it was pretty hot when I touched it after failing. Possible it was something else but most likely due to not having a return line

Huh lol I did some more reading and the carter pretty much can be ran unregulated based on an internal regulator that holds it at 7psi which is perfect for a Holly. Now most edelbrocks run less so using a regulator with a return back to the tank will provide that consistent 5ish psi and the return line from that regulator should be a bit kinder to the pump. To add though I believe 5/16 will add strain to this pump as I read that it is meant to work on 3/8. Trying to push fuel through a smaller line is more strain so

Good read, I will dive into that a bit further. Planning on running a FPR with a return line at the regulator with the carter pump. Would like to find one with a gauge port to dial it in right there. I first ran it simplly just pre filter-pump-filter-carb which I learned it what caused it to overheat/scream/die lol a return line will remove strain and lower any heat that would be at the pump by not heating fuel up.

Holley red pumps can be run deadhead according to a lot of people but I only got 160 miles out of it that way haha If it's going to end up costing me 4-500 just to have the tank cleaned and modified for 3/8 then I'm better off buying one of those custom tanks around the internet (grossly expensive)..Guess I will have to get some price quotes and be safe. The 5/16 is more than likely fine and lightly modified v8s up to 450 sometimes more seem to have no issues but it definitely is a limiting factor there. Like already said, just would be a PITA to later on need 3/8 haha But I do feel that a 1/4 return line is oftly small even for a stock Datsun :/

So after replacing a wheel cylinder and putting in another r200 differential, I thought my 72 sbc swapped z was ready for the road which it has rarely seen. Backed her out on the driveway and while idling she died. Even more concerning though, the scream of my holly red pump was nowhere to be heard lol. Pushed back into the garage and the fuel pump was rather hot. After some reading I discovered that it likely burnt up due to being ran deadhead style (no return line). Now I never liked that pump, so I purchased the Carter p4070. My plans are to drop the tank to inspect and replace as many of the rotted hoses up there as well. I am thinking about cleaning the tank out but I have had clean filters ever since running a couple gallons through from when she sat for about 13 years. So that is still up in the air.... But anyways I was going to switch over to 3/8 hose but have now decided to stray away from that as the only simple solution is to plumb a 3/8 fitting at the drain plug and I do not like that. Plus I am only around 330 hp and don't plan to ever go over 400 so the 5/16 hose should be just fine. I am going to replumb a return line to the original location which I believe is only a 1/4 nipple at the tank but that has been ok according to peoples experiences. So place the Carter Pump right in-front of the tank with a fresh new pre pump filter. Add a fuel pressure regulator (to make sure I am around 4.5-5 psi as I am running an edelbrock 600cfm) with a return line option near the tank as well and have it go right back to the original return line location. Also, I have the vapor line currently plugged closer to the engine bay and it hasn't seemed to cause a problem...? I am new to fuel systems and still learning so if anything sounds like a recipe for disaster please let me know. I did do a bit of research to hopefully get this right and I think this is my most cost/time effective route to be back on the road without cutting to many corners!!

So I replaced my gauges during my v8 swap with vdo gauges and within that my fuel gauge is now 0-90 ohms. This does not seem to be working right most likely because of the sender. Should I be able to take a sender like this and mount it despite the 240z having a side mount sender?http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-226-164/overview/ I think it should work, or does anyone else have any other ideas besides going to a fuel cell.I honestly do not care to much about the fuel gauge but it would be awesome to have something to atleast give me an idea of where I am at. A fuel cell could be a long ways down the road but I still have no idea of where I am at fuel wise in its current state.

Thanks! I might have to be purchasing a clip then for the one. Time for the real challenge of finding that haha

So my halfhaft is moving in and out of the differential. Not really the halfshaft but rather the flange that the 4 bolts mount to that goes into the differential. That whole unit is moving in and out as if it has broken loose from the differential. Is this flange compression fitted into the differential? Or is there potentially a clip that I did not install when I put it in. When I installed one of the flanges was on the differential and the other had it still stuck to the halfshaft. I slid it in and pounded it then installed but now I have a ton of noise coming from the right rear wheel and the halfshaft is loose from the differential.

Anyone know what voltage it runs at... My thinking is I can play it safe and use a voltage reducer like I have used for an old heater to get it down to 6v. I don't know if that would be enough for it to fully function though, or if it is fine I will just run 12v there.

So I have a defroster and was wondering how you guys rewired or would go about rewiring the defroster with an aftermarket kit. There is no supplied wire for defrost so it is going to have to be done pretty much from scratch off the fuse block. I have a switch still on my center console I would like to use too.

You might have hit it on the head, my dash is out sitting in the hatch for easy access. This might explain why my new revolution gauges are working that are not grounded through the dash framework. I will try it out and play with that before I end up ditching these gauges too lol

Okay I am still having a little bit of trouble but it must be a grounding issue at the gauges for all 3 to have issues. I have been looking at my fsm and would like some confirmation as to if this might be my problem since I am not home right now. It seems as if the casing of the gauges are also seperately grounded. So there is a black wire coming from each of the connectors "Only ground I have to each gauge currently" and quite possible a ground that should go to the mounting nut on the behind the gauges? If so that would be wonderful. As of now my oil pressure does nothing, water temp just rises all the way pretty quickly, and fuel does nothing. Ammeter appears to work though.

I have been rewiring the z and my middle 3 console gauges are not working right. I have 12v being supplied to the power wire of each. Is this the correct method or do they run off a different voltage. My grounds seem to be good and I have tried grounding at multiple locations :/ Any help is much appreciated.

Well I can faintly see the bulbs on when the car is not on and they are being fed 12v. That would definately explain why they are dim. I am going to redo the grounds tommorow though and definately consider the led mod. The only thing bugging me is that the revolution gauges illumination turns off also when the car is on. This is what is making me think the grounds might not be good enough. Probably a combination of the fact that the other bulbs are 14.4v. I remember seeing something about led's that are plug and play but I am also aware that they are very voltage sensitive so some research is definately in my future haha.

I am going to wire up a headlight relay like I use to have just to make sure, would a dash light relay be a good idea? edit: Just wired up a headlight relay and nothing really changed. I rechecked voltage and it sends 12v to gauges when on now, dunno why that changed.