YoSammyT
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Posts posted by YoSammyT
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And thanks for posting that... did you do that?
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Boom goes the dynamite.
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Has anyone tried to put in a round fuel cell designed for a spare tire area into an S30? See link...
I'm thinking about giving it a try.
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What kind of driving will you be doing? You want something pretty gnar, or just a bit of an upgrade?
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I'm buying it... Just waiting to pick it up.
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I've seen a few 300ZX's around the web with powered by an SBC... Below are a few links to help get you started.
Having done a few s30 V8 conversions, which aren't exactly easy, I don't think the 300zx has the V8 parts support. Some modifcations/welding may be required.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39566-300zx-v8-breif-instructions
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=387884
http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.html (this site goes up to 280zx)
Good luck!
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They had $30,000 in that turd???? Unbelievable.
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RebekahsZ nailed it.
From what I see I'd guess you're probably closer to 275 hp. Around a 13s qtr mile.
Good luck and congrats on the V8Z.
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The JTR tranny mount is fine, but I used the Motorsport one in my last build. It bolts into the transmission tunnel And is really rigid.
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interested in a small block chevy 280z?
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I don't use a cable, but here is one from Motorsports Auto... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic13/10-1862
No sure on the zx, but on the s30 there is a smaller metal arm on the firewall that turns when you press the gas pedal. I extended that with a small piece of metal, then hooked it up using a throttle connection rod.
TH
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Does it fit a V8 Intake and work with the stock gauge?
I bought a stock temp sender and went to the hardware store and found a 1/2 NPT that was wide enough in the center for the sensor to fit into. Then I JB Welded all around it. Looks great and works like a champ.
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Thanks jhm. I finished my Black 280z mid last year and all of my free time went into that. My golf score went up 10 strokes by the time I started playing again. I'll keep in Swift and Tein in mind, these springs are 280 lbs/in which is stout.
SleeperZ - I wanted to just make sure these are what I wanted. Right now I can go back... I'll probably cut them off at some point, just wanted the option. These slicks fit under there nicely and could go a little bigger if need be.
Here is my black one... (notice the driver in the first image?)
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I bought this 77 280z from a post on here from a guy in Florida. I found a good deal on eBay for a set of Cosmo Racing coilovers and after my research decided to give them a try. I couldn't really find anyone who had a Datsun who had used them, just a bunch of questions about them and some 'bashing' that they were too inexpensive to be good. I did find several good reviews from folks who had put them on different makes and models, so I purchased them and installed them on my 77 280Z. I got the single spring setup with a heavier duty springs due to a V8 swap.
I haven't been able to try them yet as there is no transmission and I'll be pulling the motor out this weekend. As soon as I know how they ride I'll update my experience here.
Here are some other pics of the car.... you may remember this car being in the For Sale forum, but the pictures of it were terrible. Hard to tell what was being offered. I've cleaned it up and put a coat of 'undercoating' on the inside. It's got a new paint job from P.O. who was learning to paint. It's decent, but sat for a while in a body shop, then a garage and has some minor scuffs here and there. I'm looking forward to a good buff and wax job as I think it will remove a lot of the blemishes.
I found a set of Weld Draglites (15x7 front & 15x8 rear) on craigslist I had to grab. They are 4.5 back spacing with new tires on front and practically new M/T drag radials on back.
What do you guys think?
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I picked up a roller 1977 280Z partially assembled. One of the things I'm missing are the Front Caliper Bolts.
Anyone know what size they are? I'd like to go grab some nice ones from the Hardware Store.
Tory
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Stock rear end will last a good while. You can get a custom drive shaft tfrom any driveline company in your area.
Last one cost me about $300.
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Just realized I never posted my findings on this. The rear main seal was broken. Had to be faulty as it had a huge crack in it. Pulled the tranny and replaced it... I'm dry.
Never had a one-piece RMS leak (much less break), but I guess there's a first time for everything.
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The MSA mounts are what I chose this time and I'm using my stock hood on a 1978 280Z.
The transmission mount is better on the MSA kit for sure. Unfortunately, you cannot use a mechanical fuel pump. However, if it's a fuel injected z car the wiring is already ran for you.
There is a ton of room with this kit... http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/29108-20140811-205407/
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As far as cheap and easy goes, can't beat a th350. I've done 2 that way.
Are you putting the engine in as is, or send it to the machine shop?
If keeping it stock I'd still budget at least a couple grand. The conversion has several big hits to the bank, then will $50 here and there you to death.
A couple tips to save some money.... 1. radiator for an 89 Chevy G20 van is less than $100 brand new and fits well and cools perfectly. 2. Electric fan for a 91 Ford Taurus fits well and moves a lot of air and aftermarket is less than $100.
I can post pics of the fan and radiator if you like.
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A 350 in a ZX is cool. If you're building a 'drag car' you may want to hold out for a 240 260 or 280z because they are a lot lighter and less electronics.
Not trying to deter you at all, just something to consider.
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It is a brand new build. Definitely not a wearing out challenge.
I have talked to Paul. He called me this morning with an idea. Hook a drill up and 'prime' the oil pump and turn it for a few minutes to see if it leaks under a good constant pressure. That will help isolate/exclude where it's coming from.
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I just finished a rebuild on a 1990 sbc 350 roller motor mated to a 350 turbo tranny and put it in my 1978 280Z. I probably don't even have 100 miles on it.
I have a difficult to find oil leak. No leak at idle, but after driving it it will leave a puddle under it, and it smokes from oil slinging on the header when driving. So, I put the car up on stands and let it sit and run for around 15 minutes. Again, there is no leak at idle when hot or cold. No noticeable leak at 1,500 rpm either. However, if I rev past that it drips very noticeably from the bottom of the rear main seal housing. Some of the drops hit the outside edge of the fly wheel which slings oil on the header and up in the transmission housing.
If I rev the car up a few times to 4,000 rpm or so and then quickly get under it, I can actually see it leak several (7 plus) drops of oil, then it stops leaking.
I had two breathers with no PCV, but they pretty quickly became saturated with oil, so I utilized a K&N part that vents the valve cover directly to the side of the air cleaner and I'm not using a PCV valve, just a straight vent to the air cleaner on both sides.
It's my understanding that a one-piece rear main seal... 1. typically doesn't leak 2. when they do leak, they'll leak at idle as well as any other rpm. Am I wrong? I've never had this happen and I'm at a loss here and could use some advice. I really, really don't want to have to pull the engine back out.
Thanks for any advice.
1973 240Z with Chevy V8 - Monguuz
in Cars for Sale
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