[Any new developments with radiators?]

Here's a Griffin (made in S. Carolina) I just got from Summit ( part #1-55201-xs ). It's a 2 row with 1-1/4" tubes, and measures 15-1/2" X 24", just about perfect for an S30!

 

A 14" Spal (puller) electric fan fits the rad just right. PM me if you go the Spal route, I found a really good source!

 

I'm replacing my JTR (Stealth Conversions) rad, it's barely adequate for my stock LS2.

 

Steve

Steve,

 

How did you mount the Griffin?  My taurus fan caught fire and destroyed my JTR radiator and mount!

 

Thanks

[Brake Proportioning Valve Location]

Spent a couple of weeks deciding where to locate it, ended up with this

 

[Can i see some Zs painted BLACK... post some up!]

Expensive??

Said it was my lucky day... didn't have the radar on.  Made me install a front licence plate though

 

[subtle z kit]

I wanted to do 275's as well.  Figured I would play it "safe" and do 265..  I'm running the MSA coil over kit as seen in this pic.

 

Spent over 5 months working on the rear speakers...

[subtle z kit]

 

Subtle Z kit, lots of time spent getting it to fit nicely.  Pretty happy except for a gap at the front edge of the passenger door.  Probably could have been fixed if I had spent another two weeks before paint.

 

Going to try and stuff a 265/45/18 on the rear, it seems like it's going to be tight.....

[Can i see some Zs painted BLACK... post some up!]

[New weatherstrip alternative]

I purchased the Precision kit in 2001 from 1aauto.com for my 240. Finally put the seals on last July (2010). Had to slam doors to get them shut, bottom and top was being pushed out about 3/16".

 

All the pressure kept making the strips come loose by the door latch. I got fed up after gluing them on a couple of times. Decided to try the McMaster seals. Looks like the actual part number is now 1120A333.

 

The McMaster seals are great. Doors shut perfectly, 25' was plenty. The built on welting looks great.

[Practicallity of a long rod 352]

A couple of reasons.

 

 

1. I'm not a Wall St. banker or a public sector employee (I'm poor)

 

2. The heads I got off of Craigslist for $650 and they had just been completely gone through with new springs etc, but the springs are setup for flat tappet cams. I don't want to spend the money for new springs (See #1)

 

 

If I win the lotto I will do a solid roller cam!

[Practicallity of a long rod 352]

I am planning to build a long rod 352 to replace my 327. I am hoping for 450-500hp I want a quick revving motor, and I want to rev it past 6000 occasionally. I am wondering if my cam choice is a decent one for this combo. I would think that so long as I have my rotating assembly balanced I should be able to rev far beyond the 6000 or so red line of the typical 400 because this setup is internally balanced and should put alot less stress on the mains.

 

400 block .030 over (Got it)

JE forged pistons with .125 compression height

6.250" rods - Debating between H beam or Light I beam

327 forged Large Journal crank (1130)

Dart 220CC aluminum heads 2.10 intake 1.625 exhast (Got em)

Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake intake

COMP Cams #12-677-4 Small Block Chevy XTREME ENERGY XS 274 S Mechanical Flat Tappet Solid Camshaft SOLID: Very strong mid-range, torque & throttle response, 2200+ stall.

1.5 Rockers

T56- Transmission (Got it)

 

Thoughts?

[CALLING ALL Zssss]

I have had my suspension apart for years, putting it back together now and spent about an hour looking for this answer....