[Jtr mounts]

I just purchased my motor mounts, JTR plates and spacers. I am hoping to get some more current feed back(since this post is 5 years old) on which way is best to bolt them all together. Some pros and cons to motor mount to set back plate to spacer to motor vs motor mount to spacer to set back plate to motor would be appreciated. I know either way will work but I am just hoping to see what most everyone else has done.

 

Thanks

[engine compartment frame question]

yes thats perfect, i am going through this process at the moment on my 280z before i swap in my Lt1/t56 combo. Another question i had when drilling the new holes how did you keep the stock hole location or did you just drop one rail and mark the new rail with the old ones locations and replaced each rail as such. Thanks again for this information.

The center of the hole closest to the firewall is 20" from the firewall. I have seen a few people say 19-3/4 but mine is 20". Just take that measurement before you remove.

[engine compartment frame question]

Can't tell if serious I suppose after all the rust repair is done, engine and suspension back in, hopefully it would be many years before removing it again.

I am glad you asked, I wasn't sure either!

[engine compartment frame question]

This weekend I made all of the measurements and cut out the passenger engine frame rail. My suspicions were confirmed when I measured and found that if I use 2.5" tubing and align it with the fender, then the crossmember bolt holes are right at the outside of the tubing. You could fix this by moving the frame rail outward, but then it would portrude into the wheel well. To fix the problem I extended the width of the frame rail at the crossmember location and then built in the pocket so the bolts will still drop in. Supposing I would have just put a pocket in the 2.5" tubing, the bolt holes would have ended up with no steel on the outside to support the bolt. All of this was based on stock locations. My measurement showed that the width of the stock frame rail was ~3" including the lip in the fender well. The outside edge of the bolt hole for the crossmember was then ~.5" back toward the engine. Putting the edge of the bolt hole at the edge of the 2.5" tubing. You can see what I did at

 

engine frame rail

 

Does this sound right? I double checked ten times, but maybe I missed something.

I know this is an old post but after days of searching for the same info I still cant find an answer to this question. As stated above, the center of the hole on the frame rail / cross member mount location is 2.5 inches from the inside of the frame rail. That means if I use 2.5 wide square metal tubing the hole will be penetrating the outside edge of the tubing. Does this mean I have to use something wider than 2.5? move the rail outward? or weld some type of plate / angle iron to the outside rail?

[Not sure what route to take....]

Any decisions yet? sorry I don't have the advise you seek but i'd like to see what route you take.

[My plan for chassis/subframe fabrication...]

I did the 2x3 0.083 frame rail connectors, you do end up in the cabin if you try to maintain the rocker height. I have seems some people run 1x3 .083 to get around that problem.

 

 

In the front I used 2.5x2.5 .120 to replace the front portion of the frame rail that had rotted away, I will have to echo that .120 really is quite thick, had to use a lot of amperage to get good penetration, and welding that onto the thin sheet metal was not a fun task.

 

I think .065 might be a little bit on the thin side, but as long as you didn't crush the tubes and used posts where applicable it should be just fine, I think .065 is that's the thickness of the tube that is holding up my fuel cell, structurally sound, but I'm not sure it would handle a twisting load from the chassis directly for long periods of time.

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have a question I have been searching for, for hours. This is the closest thread I could find to answering my question.Is the bottom side of the frame rail level with the rocker or is it lower? If lower, how much? Thanks

[Complete floor/subframe/firewall transplant to pre-smog Datsun]

Thanks johnc, ThreeDeadZs and RebekahsZ! You guys gave me all the advice I need to continue rebuilding and upgrading my stock suspension.

[Complete floor/subframe/firewall transplant to pre-smog Datsun]

I don't mean to hijack an old thread but I am looking for an answer to a very similar question.

 

I have searched this site and the web for someone doing a complete 240z body/full frame swap with no luck. I am only researching this because my body man (owns and builds old skool rat rods for a living) put the idea in my head. He seems to think it can be done with the right frame.

I have done some research and have found that a Chevy S10 is only a few inches wider and a little over a foot longer than a 240Z. The frame could easily be cut down to get the wheelbase correct and the width I don't think would be enough to cause problems. Especially since I am going to be installing a V8 and if I went this route would want to install a narrowed rearend anyway.

 

My question is, why don't I see anyone attempting this? is it weight? or just a bad idea?

 

One reason I would consider this is because I have owned and built two V8 S-10's and they were pretty easy swaps and a blast to drive. Another reason is because I believe doing this would give me a stronger chassis and also updated suspension and brakes. I also have access to numerous S-10's as a buddy of mine has a towing/wrecking yard.

 

I am looking to build a fun, reliable, cruise night/weekend cruiser. My 240Z is currently completely apart. I just had the body sandblasted and am currently doing rust repair. My floors are completely cut out as well as the frame rails.

 

This is the time that I need to make a decision on what direction I am going. Another thing to keep in mind, I have a 280Z parts car with complete suspension including the R200 rear. So, basically I am ready to go in either direction.

 

Let me know your thoughts, Thanks.