PhaTTy

Don't hear a hiss that continues. As I said, once you move the vent / (a/c) / bi-level lever from the left side ( A/C , vent ) to the right side ( fresh, defrost, etc ) , it fixes the problem. Moving the bottom temperature control from cold to hot does not affect it. Turning the fan off also fixes the problem.. This makes me think it is something electrical and not vacuum as turning the fan off wouldn't stop a flapper/door vacuum leak, would it? Would a faulty air regulator do this ( may also be known as Auxiliary Air Valve? ) cause the idle spike? I am referring to this: I can't think of what else on the engine would cause it to free rev when the A/C might be engaged. Does this seem logical, or could it be something else?

Alright.. I have a fun one for you. My friend has a 76 280z L28. He started experiencing an odd issue today. When he presses in the clutch or leaves the car in neutral, the car free revs up to about 3,000 rpm by itself. He says if you put your foot under the accelerator pedal and pull up on it, it stops. He then gave me an interesting tidbit of information. He had the fan on. He said if he turned the fan off, it goes back to normal. I asked him what the top lever on the A/C control is set to and he had it set to "Vent". I told him to switch it from "Vent" to "Fresh" and it also stopped. My question is.. is the A/C engaged when "Vent" is selected and not engaged when "Fresh" is selected? I can't think of anything else that would make this stop by just switching the fan off or switching from vent to fresh. Let me know what you can come up with for ideas on what could be causing this.

Thanks John... Sounds good.. Your build sounds similar to my original plan, which I intended to be fairly rock solid. I'd be more interested in the full detailed listing of what went into the engine. I do plan on doing some reinforcement since it already has the roll cage in it, and is gutted, I might as well. The top being off does reduce the structure stability, so I need to compensate for that

Thanks! All good points but this car has no fuel lines, no gas tank, nothing except the stock cracked dash and the suspension and rearend.. Everything is completely gutted already, and I don't have it.. so I was planning on using a fuel cell and redoing it all anyway. I really like the idea of the EZ-EFI (TBI) system, but just noticed the Megasquirt 3 sequential injection stuff, and how easy it is to setup with the LS1. I initially leaned away from the LS1 because I didn't want to deal with $ injectors and all of the sensors needed. It's still a toss-up at this point, but the engine is a far way off anyway.. Have plenty of body work and enforcement to do before I should even be thinking about it. Just letting my thoughts run into the forum

So.. I am thinking of downgrading the engine aspect of the build to a used stock LS1 w/ megasquirt 3 .. and go from there if I want more power, it's easy enough to add... Should make it easier on me, and provide a cheaper engine build. If my aim is 12-13 1/4 miles, I have a feeling the stock LS1 can get pretty close, or be nudged there with a little help. What do y'all think?

Got it on the pistons.. I'm not opposed to change.. Thanks for the rest of the info also.. I'm saving this all elsewhere for some day when I actually do build the engine. I am attached to this Z.. I definitely want a roadster.. topless Z.. so I'll beef up the stiffness as much as I can. I've seen a couple of other convertible and roadster Z's out there that handle more horsepower than I will be putting out. If a vette, viper, cobra, etc can run the drag topless (and they do.. I see it almost every week) , then I think it is safe to say that you can put enough structural integrity into the rest of the body to be able to handle it. If I do end up twisting the body or doing some major damage, then I figure I can always go grab another 240z -- they are fairly easy to find rust-free and in decent condition here in Arizona... apart from the body work, paint, and reinforcements.. the rest of the parts bolt on.. I've seen somebody swap the engine, drivetrain, rearend from one 240z to another very quickly before I'm confident that I can reinforce the chassis decently. The roll cage that is already in the car is near identical to many of the cars that run the drag strip here locally. Most of those cars push upwards of 500hp and a good amount of them are unibody's .. Wish me luck and I'll do my best. Who knows.. maybe a 2nd 240z is in my future as well to compare it to I REALLY APPRECIATE the comments and suggestions.. This is what I am looking for, and what makes this forum great.

Checked spam folders and everything.. I've noticed that watched topics that have immediate notification turned on are not working. I tried to look at my notifications and it says I have no notifications there either. Not sure what is up.. I've been a member for a long time, so maybe something didn't get updated on my account?

It will be mostly street. I plan on driving it most days. Welding the cage in/through the doors would be interesting. I may have to remove these hollow fiberglass (yeah.. about 5 - 9 lbs each) doors and find some stock doors to place on them. Not sure if the stock ones will even bolt up any longer, but I'll have to check sometime. The idea of welding the stock doors is interesting also, but then I'd have to have a ladder for my wife to be able to get in.. probably not going to happen. Bracing through firewall and front frame rails I am all for. The cage is already welded to the rear shock towers, but I plan on adding a strut bar in the front / back both to further increase the rigidity. I am planning on replacing the floorboards and frame rails. I didn't want to make it look like I was jumping head first into this, but I did want to write it all out and plan it all out so I knew for myself what I was going to do, when I was going to do it, etc.. and to get your very valuable advice about it all. Thanks a ton! Keep it coming.

This Z is very rust free... minus some on the floor plans. I bought it because I actually wanted a convertible eventually -- so I think it fits my plans well. I can add stiffness to the body (or have somebody that has experience do it). My #1 priority on this build is to make sure the unibody is reinforced as much as possible and that bracing is installed wherever we can. Your engine recommendations are actually very close to what I had planned: GM 4 bolt 350 block machined to 383 (possibly splayed.. is it necessary for this HP level?) AFR 180 or 195 street eliminator heads Victor Reinz head gaskets Lunati Voodoo 60103 Cams Lunati Voodoo Aluminum Roller Rockers SCAT Pro Comp I-Beam Rods ARP Wave-Loc Rod Bolt Kit SCAT 9000 Pro Comp Stoker Crank Hypereutectic Pistons (Speed Pro or Keith Black?) Melling High Volume Oil Pump Cloyes true roller timing kit Clevite H-series Main and Rod Bearings Comp Cams Magnum Push Rods Thanks for the suggestions and your input. It's very helpful!

I'm not planning on using it on a track. Maybe the drag strip, but definitely not the track. I was just saying the person I bought it from had planned to use it on his local track. Engine, Differential, and Transmission I figured would cost between $5k and $8k depending on if I built it or had someone else do the work.. and all those small things in between I'm not going to use cheap parts.. want it to last a while

Hey guys.. finally getting around to working on my project car (pics attached). I think I paid about $500 (or less) for the '73 240z , so I figure it was a decent deal. Basically the car was going to be used for a track setup by the previous owner. I'm not sure where he was going with the convertible top, but I do like the bodywork, although it needs some repairing from fiberglass cracking, etc from being exposed to the Arizona sun for an extended period of time. My overall plans: I would like the car to run a 12-13 second 1/4 mile when I do decide to drag it. I don't want anything to break or twist. I'm willing to put a few extra dollars into it to ensure that it does not have issues in the future. Engine plans: ~440hp SBC 383 w/ JCI v8z kit - engine custom built by myself or my dad, or built my a competent engine builder. I'm planning on throwing a FAST EZ-EFI system (TBI) on it for fuel. I've considered a complete MPFI system, but it does complicate things and I've heard nothing but great things about the (quick) auto learning EZ-EFI setup. Drivetrain plans: Built up 700R4 and a R200 Viscous LSD (Q45 3.54 ?) Drivetrain / Suspension / brake plans: Option #1 - Arizona Z Car Track-Pak (Front/Rear -- 7600 $$ wow) , Option #2 - Modern Motorsports Rear Adj Control Arms, Modern Motorsports R200 Mounting Package , Modern Motorsports Front/Rear 13" Brake Package , Option #3 - Techo Toy Tuning R200 Rear End Conversion Kit (http://www.technotoy...0-rear-end.html) I would like your opinions on the above choices.. what would be best and easiest to implement. I would like to do much of the work myself, so the simpler for me, the better. I really like the Arizona Z Car Track-Pak, but it's friggin expensive. So.. after that is all out of the way.. I need to know how to proceed with this car. My first though was to take it down somewhere and have it soda blasted (so it doesn't harm any existing fiberglass). I'd like to know what I am working with before I begin my first attempt at fiberglass repair and fabrication. Is this what you would do first? I was planning on the following "order" for completing the car: 1. Remove dash and have someone soda blast everything we can 2. Repair any fiberglass that has cracks, needs filling in, fabrication for tail light installation 3. Primer it before anything starts rusting 4. Replace frame rails and floor boards 5. Primer floor boards -- Spray or Brush truck bedliner in engine bay and cabin floor of vehicle [edit] 5a. - Reinforce chassis to prevent flexing or have someone else with 240z experience do it (Phoenix area has someone good). 6. Remove old rearend and install new rearend, suspension, and brake components 7. Replace front control arms, suspension, and brake components 8. Install transmission, driveline, and mounting components 9. Ensure steering components are bolted up and functional 10. Install engine and mounting components 11. Install headers and have an exhaust shop install the exhaust 12. Hook up heater components 13. Install new fiberglass + coated dash + gauges Let me know how that looks, and if I am missing anything important. I want this done right the first time Sorry for the lengthy post and might be over-thinking it, but I like being prepared and know what I am in for. Thanks guys!

I plan on insuring it with collector insurance, which would allow me to bypass emissions in my city. "Arizona now has an emissions testing exemption for cars 25 years old or older that have collector car insurance on them." Sounds like it would work to me, as long as I can get collector car insurance on the ole 240z project. I've been pondering over different 383 options, and my real question is.. how "daily" street friendly will the car be at different horsepower levels. I plan to put the 700R4 transmission in, and a R200/R230 VLSD. Chassis will be strengthened as much as I can. I don't want to overdo the power... Since I am planning a N/A engine build, what are your thoughts on a 400hp/400tq (crank) engine vs 500hp/500tq (crank) engine build. I am planning on around 9.2 - 9.6 CR to prevent knock as we only have 91 octane here. It will be a bit more under control with the FAST EZ-EFI since it will train itself to obtain a proper AFR ratio, which can help reduce knock over a carb setup. I want a fun car that I can drive every day if I want to and take to the strip a few times a year. However, I don't think it is worth the effort if the car won't run at least a 12.5 1/4 mile. Let me know your thoughts on all this

Those were just goals.. I'm not going to be disappointed with a ~12.. And then again, if I run 11's I would be overjoyed.. I'm doing it for fun, not competition. Hrm... Now you've got me thinking about grabbing a block and building up an engine with my father.. Good bonding time, eh .. I like the idea of the Lunati Voodoo cam and you seem to be pleased with it. I've heard from a couple of sources that the sanderson headers fit in a sbc v8 swap, so will have to check that out also Awesome.. If it were not for you guys, I'd be lost. I know this is going to be a drawn out project, but having some help is always nice.

I've ridden in a fairly quick car.. It was heavier but was an El Camino pushing 600-800hp depending on boost.. Enough to scare me, but it was fun once I got past the initial shock. I don't plan on running nitrous at all, I am looking for just all motor. I would be plenty happy with a 12.2 1/4 mile. Wasn't planning on having the shop send me a crate, but work with them to create what I needed, or build it with my dad, who has experience. Do you have any idea what type of build that 383 was that you ran a 12.2 on? I'm thinking 443hp in a 240z (lighter than stock even) would be a lot of power for that car... Don't want to overdo it.. Good comments.. This is what I was looking for.

Those were my thoughts exactly.. I'd love to get just around 500hp without having to supercharge or turbo the engine... I noticed the same engine builder has (http://www.tuffdawgengines.com/chev_383_500hp.htm) .. I could probably work with them to create a reliable SBC that runs on pump gas. All the engines they list, they claim run fine on 91 octane. Just FYI - I am heading up this weekend to look at a '73 240z with a complete fiberglass molded one piece tilt front-end (-weight, +easy engine bay access).. It also has fiberglass doors (-weight), and made convertible (-weight), which I will have to get a hard top for. I'm thinking with the reduced weight on the front, having a non-aluminum block will even the weight ratio out pretty nice.. I'm guessing 450-500hp in this will be enough to scare the living daylights out of a passenger, and pull some decent 1/4 times as well. What do you think? I'd love to strap a turbo or charger on, but it does add cost, time, fabrication, and more parts that can fail.. I know the cool factor is definitely there, but not sure if I want the extra complications.