240zchevyv8

Thank you slow 280 ill look at the cam tommorrow to see if any marks are visable, im going to check the timing first chance i get, to make sure everything is opening and closing as it should. I also think i have a few other items causing problems,these being no PCV valve on the engine block, i removed it before i took the engine out of the car, and it ran ok then, also the edelbrock carburator im sure that when i removed it there was not a conversion plate under it, but it was sat straight onto the inlet manifold, the dual plane type and not the 4 hole type, what effect would this have on running of the engine. i would appreciate your views on this regards heath

Yes the keyway in the damper lines up with the timing mark, just curious when setting up the timing should i set the small bottom timing gear on 0 facing straight up, or move it to one of the other marks, there are several markings with various numbers from 2-12 before or after top dead centre facing straight up, could anyone explain in simple terms how to set up the timing correctly, and also does anyone know what effect power wise running the camshaft 180 degrees out will have on an engine regards heath 240zchevy v8.

UREKA:mparty: i think i may have found the problem upon taking the timing cover off, after setting top dead centre with number 1 piston at the top using a wire through the plug hole, i removed the harmonic balancer and the key way was facing the one oclock position which is correct, once i removed the cover saw that the crankshaft 0 mark facing straight up which was also correct, but the camshaft mark was also facing straight up meaning that the camshaft is 180 degrees out, but in my book it says on rare occasions camshaft sprockets are sometimes marked 180 degrees out??? i thought bloody hell how do i tell if mine is correct or mistamped, then it says note the position of the cam sprocket dowel if when the dots are aligned the dowel is opposite the position shown, then the sprocket has been marked wrongly, the way mine is now if i move it 180 degrees to line up the dots the dowel will be as shown in the rebuild book as correctly marked, meaning that it is running with the camshaft 180 degrees OUT is this possible:icon5::icon5:, this may explain the stumbling on de-exceleration exhaust gases trying to escape when the valve is closed, but how is it able to run and dont the valves hit the pistons on these cars if wrongly set up, ill also check for blanks on the carb i know i removed one from the rear of the block that went to the carb, but was told it did not do anything it was behind the distrubutor on the block going to the front of the carb do you know is it needed, or was i told correctly, i would appreciate your views on this regards heath 240zchevyv8

Hello thank you for the advice, i worked on the car today and put car to top dead centre and looked at the harmonic balancer mark, it was virtually bang on 0, i then removed distrubutor cap cleaned all the terminals, and fitted new plugs gapped to 38 rotar arm was right over number 1 plug lead so i know that the timing was right, but when i took car out for a spin it still stumbled also when i stopped the car and came to restart it it srtuggled to turn over, meaning the timing was out, but nothing had moved, i checked timing and was at the 12 oclock position on the balancer and not at the 2 oclock position for 0 where it was set up, this would indicate at least a 30 degree before top dead centre, is it possible that when i changed the timing chain and sprockets, that the crank shaft timing is slightly out because i did not line up the holes like i should have done, meaning that the timing is in but the valves are not quite right i then adjust the timing using the distrubutor cap to bring it in line with the valves, then the timing is out, only slightly but enough to cause a slight back pressure hence stumbling, also could you explain what is an eddy is have not heard that terminology before, what im doing now is stripping down the front cover to check the correct alignment of the cam and crank:violin:i could now kick myself for not doing so first time, i would appreciate your views on this regards heath 240zchevyv8

Hello ill answer what i can, i dont know what camshaft is in the car it came with it in and i have not stripped the engine, i have not got a device for reading the vacuum, as regards to the plugs they look fine a light greyish colour, as for timing thats a good one when i tried to set up the timing, i marked the harmonic balancer and 8 degree before mark and fired up the engine but the strobe light showed the line way above the 12 degree mark???, i attempted to bring the timing mark down by moving the distrubutor but the engine was strugling to run and would have stopped if i had took it to the 8 before mark, this confused me but i read somewhere that it is not uncommon to have a chevy set up 30 degree before top dead centre, so i assumed that this was set up that way, and also because it was running, when i changed the timing chain/gears the old chain was well stretched, i removed the old items and refitted the new ones without moving anything so thought that this should be ok, or am i wrong and now the timing is so far out im lucky the car runs, the gearbox is a t5 with no stall converter fitted, it came that way, car ran fine prior to removing engine to set it back further and striping front cover of to fit a new one this is when i noticed the timing chain wear, the problem i have to me is not gearbox related it changes gear fine no noises and is really smooth in operation, one thing i thought strange was when i refitted the plug leads on the distrubutor( i had not touched it at all before this), was that the number 1 cylinder in books shows it at a six oclock position or facing the radiator of the car, on my engine its at a eight oclock position, or has someone put the leads on wrong and i followed them:confused: i find this thought to obvious, because surely like this it would not run at all, i would appreciate your views on this regards heath.

Hello guys i need some advice from people who know chevy engines. Ill be as detailed as possible, my 240z has a 1962 327ci v8 installed. Im having a lot of trouble with what i think is a timing fault, the distrubutor has mallory electronic ignition in it, but no vacuum advance i cannot see where it was possibly ever fitted to the distrubutor. When first starting from cold car starts ok, but does not tick over very smoothly, as if it was slightly missing, i know the car has supposedly got a lopey cam but it doesnt sound or feel smooth, i know lopey cams could make it do this, but car seems to struggle to tick over mor than it should, also while driving on exceleration it is fine, but take my foot of the gas and the engine sort of stumbles, as if moving but i know nothing is loose, i have new plug leads fitted new timing chain and sprockets, ive just bought new spark plugs but not yet fitted them, but do not think this is the problem, i think it is the distrubutor that is at fault, but would not having a vacuum advance cause this type of problem, it is really annoying when car continually jerks when taking your foot of the gas, the fuel mixture and tick over speeds appear ok, it has a nearly new 600 cfm 1406 edelbrock 4bbl carburator, so do not suspect this, i put lead additives in the fuel because only unleaded is available here, i have adjusted the timing but cannot stop the car stumbling:cry2:, i would appreciate any advice because very few people in the uk understand chevys, i always wanted a 240z chevy v8 but its turning into a nightmare, i think the way forward is replace the distrubutor with a type with vacuum advance, or does the car not need it. regards 240z chevy v8

Hello on the 240 tach the common wire (black one) is on the top but on the 280 it is on the bottom so swap these wires around and connect the white wires as normal and see if it works. If you use the 240z plastic back piece change the little metal clip to the new common place other wise you will put a live short through your tach regards heath.

Hello there i have a 240z with a 327 chevy v8 connected to a borge warner t5 gearbox with a hydraulic clutch. My problem is it has always grated going into reverse, in the forward gears it is fine. If i switch the engine of before puting it into reverse this obviously stops it grating, but would like to sort this out so i can put the car in reverse with the engine running. Ive tried bleeding the clutch system and it did not help, the engine revs are normal, is this gearbox not suitable for an hydraulic clutch, or is there a way to get extra clutch travel, it has a chevy clutch master cylinder so do not think this is the fault. I was wondering if the hydraulic hose to the clutch is expanding and requires changing to a braided metal hose. I would appreciate any advice on this

Thank you very much for the excellent advice it is most appreciated, best regards heath:2thumbs:

Hello guys need the advice of people who know chevy engines. I have a 240z with a 1962 327 chevy v8 installed. It was in the scarab position but ive removed the engine and am presently in the process of changing the engine to the JTR position. Ive removed the mechanical fuel pump and fitted a blanking plate, but wasnt sure if you have to remove the item that moves the mechanical pumps arm, its like a little piston. Secondly i dont want to run a heater matrix, so do i just blank of the heater matrix pipes from the inlet manifold and water pump, or do i have to join these pipes together to allow water to flow from the inlet manifold to the water pump, i cannot see the sense in joining these pipes because the water pump already flows through the manifold and radiator, but im not sure if doing so:nono: would create air blockages. I would appreciate advIce on this from people who know regards heath.

To 900ss i ordered several parts from the USA, i paid roughly £40 tax for items costing £170, this includes handling charge by the delivery company. Just curious are you changing the engine if so what are you fitting. I have 327 chevy in my 240z, i live near sheffield if your ever in the area let me know and well meet up. Also you only pay import tax on items valued over £18 on the shipping notice regards 240z chevy v8.

Car is used on the street no bumps at all. I would say it looses the back end on entry to mid corner because by then ive eased of for the exit or id be driving backwards. Rear gear is standard r180 3.9, picking up an r200 this weekend dont know the ratio, thought id wait until the r180 fails before swopping it. The ride height is around 1" above tyre to the wing lip all round so it is just right for me. Im just repairing a sill return at the moment then ill try what jon said with the rear sway bar. Its been raining for 3 days and i dont take car out in the rain. But ill hopefully try it at the weekend if this improves things ill order softer springs. Any idea what strength would be best regards 240z chevy v8

Hello sorry to jump in and hijack the forumn but do any of you guys know how to calibrate the stock 240z tach. I have a 240z that came with the 327 chevy but the tach does not work. I think it requires calibrating but do not know how to do it regards 240z chevy v8.

Hello ive got a 1970 240z with a 327 chevy installed in the scarab position. I imported the beast:twisted: from the USA and noticed straight away that the rear end was very loose compared to my previous 240z. I have since changed all the bushes for superflex, sectioned the suspension and fitted coilovers to lower the car, fitted 440lb springs all round (these came in the trunk so i used them). Car has strut braces front and rear. 25mm sway bar on the front, and 20mm on the rear. But on driving the car it obviously handles better and feels better in a straight line, but has a horrible oversteer ( on the plus side it would make a fantastic drift car:2thumbs:). Well probable causes, is it the engine in the scarab position set to far forward altering the centre of gravity on the car causing the problem?. Are the rear springs to stiff causing to much stiffness on the rear end, and would 250lb springs on the rear be better?. The car came with 4 brand new FUTURA GLS SUPERSPORT tyres fitted size 225/50/15, because these are only a budget tyre, could this be the problem? I read somewhere that these are very hard compound tyres and do not provide much grip. If anyone else out there has any possible suggestions why my car behaves this way i would be most gratefull. I have checked over the whole car and cannot find anything loose , cracked or badly bent. Im a bit confused :hs:and just want my car handling like it looks without paying for a rolls royce, :violin:on parts that dont need replacing regards 240z chevy v8