Qcsfinest280z

One last question. After searching this forum I read that people prefer the 82-83 turbo donor cars. Are there major reasons for that? I'm not in a rush on this swap so if I should hold out for those years I will. Just saw that 81 was pretty cheap so I figured I should snag it. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Six_Shooter thats the first time Ive actually heard someone recommend it your way. The motor i have now runs great although i swapped it in there too. My goal is 225hp so I was planning on upgrading. Im trying to plan it all out before I start but i figured at $500 its worth jumping on it.

Ok, Thanks everyone.

Not exactly the answer i was looking for. I guess a more specific question is should i hold out for a better running car or is $500 a decent price for the car. I have been looking since feb and Ive only seen one l28et for sale at $1000 but it was the engine only. Thanks, Brandon

Here is a link to the post. And here is the information he sent me. I live in charlotte nc and have not seen anything in the area that is a reasonable price. http://blacksburg.craigslist.org/pts/4425060358.html "Compression on the cylinders are around 105 psi (rebuild rec is below 100), new for the turbo engine is 120psi . Since it does smoke a little, I am thinking a head job to replace worn valve guides. I had it running about a year ago and drove it around the block a few times. Turbo would spool up. ECU works as the car would not run if it was bad. I replaced the pigtails on the injector harness and a few other connections." is $500 for the car a good price?

Yes I have noticed it seems to be expensive to get good power out of the L28. But I am pretty sure thats the way I want to go. Im looking at the MSA 6-1 headers and premium exhaust. They seem to get pretty good reviews from my search on this thread. Also on my old motor I am trying to save as much as I can. The block has 2 pretty nice size holes in it but i figure i could save a few items for back up or sale. What do those parts go for these days. Hopefully can break it down this weekend if it stops raining in NC.

So problem solved and the engine is now running smooth. Turns out my mechanic mixed up a few wires (at the transmission/ bcdd and the temp sensor and thermo time wires were crossed). The guys and Nisstech Imports did a great job and got it back to me in a day. Thanks NewZed for trying to walk me through the trouble shooting but I doubt I would have been able to figure it out with my limited mechanical skills. My next problem is the exhaust is pretty rusted and is now hanging inches from the ground after a little driving shook it free. I have already decided that I want to stick with the stock motor and build up to 225-250hp. My question is with the end result in mind and trying not to do double work what route would you go to fix my exhaust problem. For example go ahead and do headers and and exhaust etc. All suggestions and parts recommendations are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Did not get 720 ohm when i tested those two wires. I got around 450.

The red wire has 12v. Didn't pick up anything from the green

Correction. Only a spark when tapping the - to a ground. Still nothing from the coil. Blue wire is seeing 12v all the way through.

NewZed I did your test and it created a spark. I'm moving to the inside to the module now

Yes, That is the frustrating part. I feel like he is just guessing and swapping parts instead of finding the issue. Not sure what he did to make the key not start the car. still has power when its turned to on. and when he use to start the car with the starter the key would turn it off. At this point I'm just going to drop it off at Nisstech and let them bring it across the finish line.

After reading EE-42 of the FSM the only thing I come to the conclusion that its the Transistor ignition unit. But again I am not a expert.

OK sorry for the not so clear post. I was a little frustrated while posting. So here it goes. I have my mechanic swapping l28 engines in my 77 280z because the kid that had it before me blew the motor. After the swap it started a few times (only at the starter, You can turn the key and it wont turn over just a click on the inside of the car) and then all of a sudden nothing at all not even when he tries at the starter. So we got a new starter, then a ignition coil, then tested another Accel coil to be sure that wasn't the problem. We played around with the distributor and swapped the one over from the first motor as well. NewZed I tried to follow what you said in this post to find the problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108380-77-280z-ignition-coil/ I have 12v on both (+) and (-) of the ignition coil with the key on. But no spark leaving the coil going to the distributor. I am by no means a expert and I am just trying to help my mechanic figure out whats wrong with the car so I can bring it home. Thank you in advance for any assistance that anyone can provide.

We see power on the + and - side of the coil and have even replaced the coil but there is no spark coming for coil to the distributor. Ive looked at old post and people have suggested a new ICM but I wanted to double check before I cough up the money and order it online. This Car is driving me crazy. 1 step forward..... 5 steps back