emaster
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Posts posted by emaster
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Okay so I was able to get it apart with just a rubber mallet and penetrating oil by hammering on the fin instead of the rear extension itself.
Now that I have the housing apart, I will call it a night. I will have a camera ready for what follows
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I promise I'll take pictures and do a write up for the rebuild!
The rear extension is just stuck on and I dont know how much of a beating I can safely give it, or if I am going to need to do anything else.
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I have a shop manual that I have followed, I've removed all the bolts for the rear extension, removed the speedometer housing thing, the pin for the striking lever, then pulled it out as far as it could and turned it counter clock wise. I've been spraying the crack with penetrating oil, beating it with a rubber mallet, and trying to break it apart.
Any tips?
I've identified it as the FS5W71A 5 speed from years 77-79. I bought it from a guy who got it from a junk yard, so I figured I would overhaul it before swapping it into mine.
I'm sure after I break into it I will have more questions
I bought an online shop manual, and I have a printout one as well and MR. google and search haven't showed me anyone else with this problem
let me know if you guys want pics of anything, thanks for the help!!
Eric
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If I need to replace my camshaft, what should I replace it with?
What are the odds I can get one for 200$ or less? I've been trying to find them they seem difficult to find
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Yeah well I broke the screw extractor inside the bolt... I am going to take a hammer with a punch to it to shatter the screw extractor, if that doesn't work I will use an air chisel with a punch attachment to break the screw extractor. After that is gone then jolts from that should break the rust and stuff around the bolt loose and I can someone else who is better at this help me out with the screw extractor. If we cant get it out we can just then drill it out with the right size drill bit and use a tap for the threads...
Sound good?
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I am trying to use a screw extractor, So far it is slipping inside the bolt. I think I need a bigger one.
I have a ton of screw extractors, in fact I have the EXACT same set as shown in the picture, the problem is, is that one is made of a metal way too soft and the threads of it bend. I will show pics after im done with school today.
I never thought of welding something to the bolt and then spinning that...
but thats a last resort. Putting my header on wasn't supposed to be this much work
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hey guys, I broke an exhaust manifold bolt inside the engine block... what do I have to do to get it out?
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haha okay I normally would not have asked that question but when I put it to start nothing happened, I just realized that I probably painted over where the cables connect to so it probably got insulated...
yeah. Time to pull out the paint remover!
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so red cable is positive battery cable and black one is negative battery cable right?
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Thanks so much! I was totally about to F that up and probable give it a short circuit haha
that would have been bad.
Thanks!!!
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the photo is currently unavailable, could you do that again??
sorry haha
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I just got my transmission back in and I cant remember which cable goes where... I have a picture of my starter, which you probably shouldn't need. Basically I forgot which cable goes on which part of the starter, or at least where my cables should go. Negative/ positive on top or bottom... thanks
oh and there is another cable that goes on one of the terminals as well and it has a plug as well, does that go top/bottom and does it go with the negative battery cable?
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Use a timing light...
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That sounds like it would cause some problems... dont you need to like, cork/plug it up or something???
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I broke a bolt in the exhaust manifold so I am thinking I am going to need to replace it with a header (which I already have). There is a valve coming from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold and it is an emissions control thing that re-burns fuel that was not burned the first time around. I need to get that loosened in order to get separate the intake from the exhaust manifold. I have some pictures im posting...
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I ended up buying a new flywheel
105$ because they wouldn't accept my core
dang.
Well now that I have that finished, I need to replace the manifold with this header I have since I broke a bolt in the manifold that I cant get out (unless I take it to a machine shop where its not worth the cost.
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I called a transmission shop and they said that it will blow up because of the imbalance
the parts store will not accept my core because of the broken screw extractor.
I found someone who is parting a car out and I am getting their flywheel used for 25$ and I will get that one cleaned off and I will use that.
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alright, so, I got one out, and I cant get the other one out it seems
is it okay to drive it like that? will the unbalance have a negative effect on my drivetrain?
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well, I ended up buying a 5 dollar tool at schucks to hold the flywheel in place, ha ha. I got the flywheel off and my neighbor apparently has a drill press
, I got a titanium drill bit and an easy out to go with it, so hopefully I should have them out today, have the transmission back in, AND have extra time for some studying tonight -
the nut at the front of the crank broke loose
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I broke two pressure plate bolts inside the flywheel, the front of the crank broke loose so I cant use it to get off the flywheel. The flywheel is brand new, but there are two bolts stuck inside of it for the pressure plate. Can I just use 4 bolts instead of 6 for the pressure plate?
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I need to put my transmission and driveshaft back in the car and take of my exhaust manifold and put headers in, should I put my transmission back in the car first, or is the exhaust project easier with the tranny out?
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thanks for the shrinking tip, I used a can of compressed air to get it shrink to extremely low temperatures, the shaped kinda deformed while doing it.
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How do I remove the exhaust manifold on my car?
L28 Timing
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I've been searching for quite a while, I know this is going to sound a little dumb, but what is the easiest way to get to top dead center for the camshaft allignment in post #2? I was thinking that since you are taking the valve cover off that you would just turn the engine and eyeball it to where both valves are closed?