icapture
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Posts posted by icapture
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www.cardomain.com/ride/3218401
I know that variety is the spice of life. But I just threw up a little.
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In my pic they are 513's Il post pics as soon as the car is back.
I knew it! Damn I'm good. haha. The XXR's look really good. I love how they have that deep 3" step lip. But I like how the spokes of the rewinds look like Watanabe's. The spokes on the XXR's look a little fat IMO, almost like they've been squished in there. Not saying they dont look sexy as hell, especially when you slam a small car on them, just not the look I'm going for. If a company made a wheel with the spoke design of the rewinds and the lip of the XXR I would be ALL over it. Too bad.
Rewinds:
XXR's:
So, my question remains. Anyone have pics of a white Z with 16 inch gold Konig rewinds?
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are those Konig rewinds? They look like XXR 513's
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When the wheels are off the car, and I am turning the hubs by hand, should I not feel or hear the teeth of the gearing touch at all? I recently cleaned and painted my differential and upon reassembly I can really hear the teeth touching eachother. I was wondering if this was ok or if I should take it to a differential shop and have it looked at.
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everyone . . . I've actually purchased those exact seats, just not with the grain effect. I will be getting my seats sometime in July. If someone lives in CA and can help me make the brackets I'd love to have the help. If not then I'll prob have to fab onto up or pay to have them made for me.
Did you buy the replica's from Sonic Motorsports?
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Hey guys. Normally I would photoshop something onto my Z, but since it was stolen that is not possible at the moment. So I was wondering if anyone had a picture of a white Z with 16" gold rewinds on it. For the longest time I thought I was gonna pick up a pair of gold XXR 513's, but ever since I saw the rewinds I knew it was the wheel for me.
Thanks a ton.
Adam
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Hey guys. Im in the process of doing the Rustoleum roll on paint job to my Z and I am wanting to remove the rear and side windows. I know I could just tape around the rubber seals, but I will be eventually stripping the car and getting it media blasted, so I'm gonna have to figure it out eventually. Plus removing the rear window will also help me sanding the rear hatch. For whatever reason the paint sands different on the hatch compared to the rest of the car. As for the rear windows I have removed the screws but its not budging. Is there some type of glue in there that needs to be heated up in order to remove the window?
As for the rear window. What do I have to do to take it out? Do I have to remove the chrome inserts first? We just pushed on my front windshield and it just popped right out. But the same doesnt work for my rear window.
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Doing the low-buck Rustoleum treatment here...still have to buff and polish but you get the idea. Better than before though, that's what I keep telling myself!
haha, i am in the process of doing a cheapo white Rustoleum job as well. Question. What did you do to paint the jams? Especially by the rear hatch mounting points and doors? Did you just use Rustoleum spray paint? I would imagine getting in there with a roller would be pretty difficult. Did you just use a 1 to 1 mixture of Rustoleum and thinner?
Any chance to get a close up picture of the paint? Car looks great man.
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Has anyone tried these out for fitment, or know of any installed in a 240z? I'm serious about buying a pair...
** EDIT: NM, I found the sizes for all the critical areas...
I would like to see some pics if you decide to install them. A company here in California makes a bunch of Bride replica seats and they make a replica of this particular model and I was thinking about buying a pair.
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Hey Jim, I am curious how the vinyl paint has stood up to the constant bending of the material due to getting in and out of the car. I painted the back and sides of my Cherokee seats with duplicolor vinyl paint and the paint started flaking off the sides of the seats immediately. In addition to the paint flaking off the seats the area on the center arm rest where my elbow rests has also started flaking. So yes the paint looks good on parts that don't bend, but anything that bends or folds cant withstand Duplicolor, even if you sand it first. Which I did.
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Hey guys. Ive sanded down my Z preparing it for paint. I am looking to make the body as straight and smooth as possible. The car has had a ton of paint jobs. I think I counted 8 different colors on the car not including all the primer layers. Where there was rock chips or cracks in the paint I sanded all the way to the sheet metal. So when I run my hand over these little divots I can feel a slight inconsistency. So I was wondering, should I be covering the entire car with a very thin layer of body filler then use a sanding block to sand most of the filler off? Or should I spray a few layers of filler primer over the entire car and then block it?
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Hey guys. So Ive welded up all the holes and now its time to start smoothing out the body and prep it for paint. Now I know there is a right way and a...not so right way to prep a car for paint. The right way is to sand it down to bare metal, prime, and paint. But my car has about 4 coats of paint on it already and although I could strip all the paint off I've decided that I don't want to invest that kind of time into the Z and have the car off the road for that long. Instead I would rather just rough up the entire car, apply body filler where needed, and give the car a single stage paint job (white.)
My driver side door has a good size patch of bondo that I found when i was sanding the rivet holes along the side of the car. I started exploring with my sander to find where the bondo ends. So as you can see in the picture there are many little indentations. My question is can I apply bondo to just these spots? Or does the entire door have to be sanded to the metal, then apply bondo?
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well Tony D, its when two young aspiring Hipster love each other very much... then they go home and "blog" about they're lives and favorite bands. and in this case, cars.
Fixed gears, jeans cut into shorts, and ray bans are "hipster" - blogs, not so much. The fact that there are blogs devoted to economics and foreign policy tells me its not "hipster"
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Hey guys. I've really been enjoying auto blogs (among others) lately and I was wondering what your favorite ones are. I dont know of many, which is why I am creating this thread, but the ones I will contribute will be.
I know these sites are probably nothing new to any of you, but I had to contribute something.
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i'll post some updated photos
You know. I have a buddy who tells me all the time to eliminate all the chrome on my Z and I keep telling him that the Z looks good with chrome, and that the chrome gives it that classic look. By god damn you have made eliminating all the chrome a viable option. Car is looking damn good man. Damn good.
Now all you have to do is black out the tail light borders. Oh and I've been looking for pics of a tilted up dual exhaust for a while. But your the first one that Ive seen that has sex wheels and a sex stance to match.
I really hope I never see you on the road, because I will be one envious mofo
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Did you put the main bearing caps back on the way they came off? They are line bored with the caps in place, so if you flip one from side to side or top to bottom that could throw things off. I really don't know if that would change the way it felt spinning it by hand, but that's what I'd be worried about. If you didn't change the shims, then the shims aren't the problem.
Jon I am not sure if I put the main bearing caps back in the same place as they were when I took them off. I will switch them and see if there is any difference.
thanks
adam
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hey guys. Recently I took apart my rear end in order to paint it. I took the differential cover off because it was leaking and needed to be re-sealed, but also because I wanted it a different color than the actual diff. housing. When I took the cover off I became curious with the gears inside and wondered how easy it would be to take them out. So I removed the four big bolts that hold those half C retainers in, then upon realizing that I wasnt gonna be able to remove the gears I installed the retainers and bolted everything back together.
Then when everything was back on the car and I spun the rear axles by hand I could really feel and hear the teeth inside the diff. Is this normal? Will it situate better once I put more miles on the car? Did I screw something up? Before I took the rear end apart I could still feel and hear the teeth inside the diff when spinning the axles by hand, but now it seems much more noticeable.
Am I gonna have to take this differential to a shop and have them throw shims in it?
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Blasphemy! I have one of those pearl white Z's! And it's not creamy.
New paint code is QAB. You're welcome.
Whats wrong with creamy? I'm planning on painting my Z a pearl white and I like the fact that its creamy, kinda gives it that vintage look.
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yea that does look pretty damn sexy. Love the way dark gold / bronze wheels look on dark colored cars.
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I see on 240's that they have an indentation on the side of the car where the ends of the bumper lay. I was wondering if these indentations are necessary to get the bumper to sit right. Or is the solution to space the bumper a little farther from the car?
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wanna race my pigs
??? pretty shure the pig will blow the doors of your s30 Do I wanna race your pig? What are you talking about? I was talking about knightoftheround's SSR's.
im confused....
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I thought I posted in here before, guess not.
Here are my SSR Longchamp XR4 wheels.
They are 15x9.5 -33 and 15x10 -40 225/50/15 on all 4.
I never thought that putting make-up on a pig was a good idea, but seeing those SSR's on that ZX are looking GOOD! how much did you end up paying for those beauties?
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sweet! I know what i'm doing that day. Where the KGC10's gonna be at?!?
??? pretty shure the pig will blow the doors of your s30
coil cutting
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted · Edited by icapture
cut that Sh|t. I leveled out my Z and she look 1000 times better.
edit: I like how sh (exlimation point) t gets edited.