vdubn

I am working on the fuel system right now as well, and I made a diagram of the fuel tank as you can see below: I found these AN fuel fitting adapters that adapt the GM push on connectors to 8AN and 6AN. I am trying to figure out what exactly I need. I think I need two of these to adapt to 8AN for the pressure and return hoses at the tank, and then I think I need 2 more to adapt the fuel rail and return at the engine. Can anyone confirm that 8AN is the size I need? Also, I am trying to determine what to do with the fuel filter. Since I am running the factory camaro tank and fuel pump, I won't need a fuel pressure regulator, so I don't think I should run a filter with a regulator, but maybe that is easiest. I know the factory filters have the push on connectors, just not sure which filter would be the best to run.

Ok, last week I took some pics of the fender flare fitment... this is the second set of flares that I bought. The first set I bought from JDMFlares.com, and they were super thin, and they were white instead of black, and the finish was terrible. This set I got from jdmfenderflares.com, they were way more sturdy, and they came in a nice black gelcoat. These look awesome and fit well. Old Wheels New wheel test fit... Its a good thing that we will be using flares and have adjustable front and rear arms to narrow the track to make clearance And here are the rear wheels with 255-40-17 tires... thinking of 245-40-17 for the fronts, but may do 255, just depends on how the clearance comes out after making adjustments.

Which tank are you using in that picture? It looks like its positioned over to the pass side of the car. My plan is to run the Camaro tank centered, so I am hoping that I'll have room for dual pipes.

This is interesting... I had done a bunch of XPipe verse HPipe comparisons on a BMW M5 I had, and I thought that the XPipe sounded more refined, less burbly than the HPipe. I'm sure firing order, and other things contribute to this sound, so it may be with the LS1 the HPipe sounds more refined/smooth. Which mufflers were you running in both of your scenarios, and did you run any resonators? My plan is to run oval Borla's with no resonators, only about 12" to 14" long muffler cases.

Thanks, that is good information and advice... I should clarify, in terms of the Xover pipe, I wasn't looking to squeek out extra performance, as much as I am looking for the best sound. I have heard the difference between H pipes and X pipes, and I definitely prefer the X pipe. Maybe it doesn't matter which of these to use, as long as it works well for the fitment. Very nice numbers by the way! Do you mind my asking how much you paid approximately to get your headers coated and who you used?

The final piece I am researching for the exhaust is the X-pipe. In the end I understand that it may make no difference which of these I run, but I wanted to see if anyone knew of any reason to buy one of these over the others.

This is a good segway into questions I had about exhaust.... so, here is a pic of the JCI Headers... I had no idea what they were going to look like, and initially I thought that they might just have a 3 bolt flange, but I was happy to see that JCI adds the 90 degree bend to send the pipe to the back of the car. These may have smaller primary tubes, but they will work fine for our application. Thinking of having these ceramic coated after I get the V-Band Clamps and flex pipe sections welded to the headers. Here are some pics showing the flex pipe, and V-Band clamps that will be welded to the headers: Here is a pic of the mini catalytic converters (I'll run two of these) that I am hoping will reduce/elliminate the hydrocarbons from flowing into the interior of the car (and allow me to run tips through the rear valence that won't have to stick out 18"). This should make it easy to remove the cat back portion of the exhaust as one piece. Still trying to decide if I will cut and weld all of the angles, or if I should have the pipes mandrel bent (if I can find a local shop that will do the mandrel bends for a reasonable price).

Got the Arizona Z Car stuff today, can't wait to get the car back from the fabricator.

Here are a couple pics of the car. Also some pics after removing the spare tire tub to make way for the Camaro tank. She's in 4x4 mode , but will be dropped pretty low when finished. Also, the T3 rear LCAs showed up, these things look beautiful. Excited to start getting the car put together. And finally, I got our wheel situation sorted out. Originally I was going to run Rota RBs, 17x8.5" all around, and see if we could get them tucked under the fender without flares (by adjusting in the front and rear LCAs), but nowing that it might still rub or poke a tad bit, I decided to run flares, and just run these Rota RKRs, 17x9.5" all the way around, with -20 ET. With the adjustments I have the the LCAs, I think I can pull the fronts in a bit, and the rears out a bit, and end up with a pretty square setup. So, the Rota RKRs showed up yesterday as well. The Arizona Z Car Billet Mustache bar and sway bar mounts should show up today. I shipped off my Tokico struts to Don at DPRacing, he is going to machine the shoulders so that I can run the DPRacing upper camber plates (biscuit style), as well as the 1" knuckle spacers. Since I want the car pretty low, and with 9.5" wide wheels, it was recommended to run the 1" knuckle spacers to help with bump steer. I have seen people space up the ball joints as well, to ensure that the front LCAs stay horizontal, but not sure if I can get something like that to work with my FutoFab front LCAs.

I'm just using the time I have to work through some build details. The car is at the fabricator for a couple more weeks, so I want to be ready to drop the engine and trans in when I get it back.

Any ideas on the size of the front sway bar? Is it stock?

Here is a pic of the clutch where you can see the thickness of the disk. If the brand is LUK, then I'm guessing its not the original clutch, so I may just swap out the TO bearing and reassemble. I was tempted to install a lightweight flywheel, and have searched through here to see if any/many other people run the LW FW, but can't seem to find much, if any, info either way.

One other clarification regarding the R200 upgrade... I read that I can eliminate one of the lower brackets, to make room for exhaust, if I use the Ron Taylor mount with the red Urethane trans mount. Is that true, and if so, which bracket in the following pic would be eliminated?

I should have about 24.7" diameter rear tires, so I think the 3.90 should be a good ratio based on what I'm reading, and what you guys are stating. Probbably just stick with that for now. I took some pics of parts, along with some questions I had. I had posted another thread about the clutch, asking if Luk was the factory clutch in the Camaros, and wondering if I should be fine leaving the factory clutch in its place. I have a list of "well I'm in there so lets just replace it" and was thinking of putting a lightweight flywheel and a clutch kit in while its apart, but also just thinking of leaving the stock clutch and flywheel to save a bit of money for now. Here is how much material is left on the clutch disc. Pic of the R200 upgrade parts I picked up (Billet Z Cars stuff is in the mail, should arrive by Friday): Here are the sway bars. The rear one has Suspension Techniques sticker on it, but the front one I measured at about .78 inches, so not sure if that is just a factory sway bar, or Suspension Techniques, or ??? LS1 Engine swap (cleaned up nicely, no oil leaks that I can see). I pulled the A/C bracket and compressor, motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, and EGR, so its almost ready for header and motor mount brackets install. I have almost all of the brake and suspension parts here. Just waiting on the TTT rear LCAs to show up, and the Ground Control coilovers are still in one of the bins: Found one of these Grant wheels to install... not sure if we will keep it tan, been looking for a shift knob that is at least close in color, if I can't find one, I'll have the wheel painted black to match the current shift knob. Finally, something interesting that came in the 240, it is a dealer installed air conditioner. Was thinking of using it, but I would need a condensor for in front of the radiator, a receiver/dryer, custom hoses, and probably run the A/C setup from John's Cars, as it seems to be a way to install the A/C Compressor and not hit headers, mounts, etc. Curious if anyone has seen one of these A/C units in a 240Z?

What ratio would you recommend, like a 3.54 (I think that was one option I had seen). I had heard that first gear in these cars is pretty much useless, so maybe going with a lower ratio would make all of that more useful. I am still looking at some options for LSDs for these, so if I swap out an LSD, that would be time for a gear ratio change. Was hoping for an OEM solution for an LSD, but leaning more towards aftermarket just due to availability. I appreciate the perspective on the ratio.

I've been lurking for quite a while, and really appreciate this site and the people for its information and the experience that you all provide. Over the last 4 months or so I have been developing the plan for the project. I've vascilated back and forth on a couple things, but I think I've settled on a pretty solid plan. My oldest son and I are doing the project together, so its been fun developing the plan together and spending the time as well. So, my son and I picked up a 95% rust free 1973 240Z for a good price. It was hit in the front, and the repair was barely ok. I actually took it to my local body shop and had them do a couple of frame checks and a frame pull here and there, and they were able to square up things a little better (mostly fender to door gap, etc.). The front drivers side area in front of the radiator support is still a bit wrinkled, so may have to replace the support panel to make it perfect, but not sure if it needs to be done... that will come later. The plan is to build a good running car that might occasionally be run at the track for fun, but no intentions to make it a drag car, or track car, just a good solid build. The initial idea was to run an old school carburated 350 V8, but that quickly changed into getting an LS1 drop out with a manual transmission. One main requirement for us was that it have a manual trans. The fact that it had fuel injection, weighed virtually the same as the stock powerplant, and was roughly 300 hp stock were also major bonuses. The car is currently at the fabrication shop, where we are getting front and rear subframe connectors welded in, and having some other fab work done. This weekend I dropped the fuel tank out and cut out the spare tire tub. Forgot to take pics this weekend, so I'll get some pics and post of some of the fabrication work here shortly. We have gathered the following parts so far (organized by category): Suspension Setup Ground Control Weld-in Coilover Kit Tokico Illumina Strut Cartridges - Front and Rear Urethane Steering Rack Bushings FutoFab Front Adjustable LCA and TC Rods TTT Rear Adjustable LCA's Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars Energy Suspensions Urethane Sway Bar links Rear End Swap to R200 1980 280ZX R200 3.91 Open Diff Arizona Z Car Billet Rear R200 Mustache Bar Arizona Z Car Billet Rear Sway Bar Mount Kit Ron Taylor Front Snub Mount + Urethane Snub Mount V8 Swap Parts JCI V8 LS1 Front Mount Set JCI T56 Transmission Mount kit (6 Speed) JCI Driveshaft JCI Vital Liquids Set Aluminum 3 Row Radiator JCI Headers 7/8" Tilton Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit Hydraulic Clutch Fitting and Hose Lokar Throttle Cable Billet EGR Block Off Plate MSD Ignition Wires Engine and Transmission 100K LS1 Engine and Transmission Drop Out Assembly ECU Reprogrammed to eliminate smog components (EGR, Secondary Air, etc) Camaro Harness Modified to eliminate smog, add relays, etc. Fuel System Camaro Fuel Tank, Fuel Pump, and fuel lines Body Xenon Air Dam, With Brake Cooling Ducts Fiberglass Flare kit Fiberglass BRE Rear Spoiler Clear Headlight covers Bad Dog Front Frame Rail Reinforcements Bad Dog Rear Frame Rail connectors Wheels and Tires Rota RKR 17x9.5 et -20 Front and Rear Wheels 245-40-17 Khumo Ecsta 245-40-17 Khumo Ecsta Brakes Front Toyota Pickup 4 Piston Caliper Upgrade 200SX Rear Disk Conversion Brackets 200SX Rear Brake Calipers Front and Rear Braided Brake Hoses 1980 280ZX 15/16" Master Cylinder 280ZX Brake Proportioning Valve Future stuff that still needs to be purchased: The plan for the exhaust is as follows.... I don't need to run catalytic converters due to no smog on 1974 and earlier cars in Oregon, but I am planning to run cats to eliminate the fumes that seem to come into these cars no matter what you do. Here are the pieces we will use to fab up the 2.5" dual exhaust: - Borla Mufflers - To accent that great V8 sound - X Pipe - For that great V8 sound - Stainless Steel Double Braid Flex Pipe - to give flexibility to the exhaust system and eliminate some extra harmonics - 2.5" High Flow Catalytic Converter (2) - to hopefully eliminte hydrocarbons in the cab of the car - V-Band Flanges with Clamps (2) - So that we can easily disconnect/remove the system as a header back section - 4" Double Walled Stainless Tips (2) - To be mounted through aluminum panels through the rear valence Lots of stuff still to buy, but really looking forward to getting started with the initial assembly after getting the car back from the fabricator. Once the car has been initially assembled, fenders cut for flares, and we know that it runs, then we will fully disassemble for final body work. More to come as I get some pics, and begin to make real progress.

I bought a set of Tokico Illuminas from a guy on eBay that said the distributor for the US is functioning again. Got a full set of 4 just a few weeks ago. Its a Nissan dealer in Washington. I'll get a name and post it tomorrow. I got factory 240z replacement cartridges, and still want the 89 rear MR2 ones to run in my front coilovers, but for some reason those are still unavailable.

So I am at the point of checking parts on the ls1 before I install it into the car, and trying for a healthy balance of replacing what is necessary, but not getting caught up replacing everything and never getting the motor in the car. I split the engine and trans yesterday, and from what I can see there is some sealant between some of the seams of the trans case, so it looks like someone has been into the trans at some point. So I guess I'm hopeful the clutch was replaced sometime since new. Upon looking at the clutch, I can see that its a Luk clutch, so I wondered if that was factory. The disc looks to have ok amount of material left on it, less on the flywheel side, but still seems ok. The throwout bearing feels pretty dry, so at a minimum, I will probably replace that. So, is Luk the factory clutch, trying to determine if the clutch is original to this engine that has 100k miles on it, and are most guys swapping in a new clutch and flywheel so as to avoid having to do it in the near future?

Sounds good... I thought about pulling the intake off, but didn't want to mess with having to replace intake gaskets... not even sure on these if that is necessary. I think they are silicon rubber, so maybe I can pull and replace the intake without having to worry about getting new gaskets. In the end, its probably not too expensive even if I had to. Thanks

I'm new here, but been lurking for a while. I started a project about a month ago, LS1 into a 73 240z, and found this site to be invaluable. I have most everything ready, just prepping the body with subframe connectors, fixing some twist points, etc. I got a complete drop out from a 2000 SS Camaro for a good deal, and lifted the whole engine/trans assembly off of the pallet using my cherry picker, but bolted the chains to the crossmember. Since I will be ditching the crossmember in order to install it into the Z, I started looking for good places to bolt the cherry picker chains to. This seems like it would be a simple enough question, but I don't want to chance bolting directly to the engine/trans in an area that might be too weak to support the weight. I have searched and looked through a number of build threads, but haven't seen any good recommendations of where to bolt to. Maybe its not such a big deal and I'm making more of it than I need to, but I have done a number of engine swaps on other makes of vehicles, and they all had lift point brackets bolted to secure spots.... I haven't located something similar on the LS1. I have removed the A/C bracket, and found a couple of bosses that I could bolt to, I just would hate to pull a bolt sideways from an aluminum boss. If anyone has any suggestions of a good way to securely attach and lift both engine and trans together, it would be greatly appreciated. I'll post the details of the project soon, with pics, and a formal introduction. Thanks to everyone that has done this project, your experience is much appreciated.

What size wheels and tires are you running?

I know this thread is old, but I have a set of the choke cables if you are still looking. Also, I tried to message you to see if you were still doing coilovers, but it says that you cannot receive messages... not sure why.