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TrikeZ

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Posts posted by TrikeZ

    240z wheel fitment

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hello, just wanted to ask for some help finding new wheels.

     

    Currently I am running the Toyota s12w on the front and will be running the mustang brake set up on the rear. (Stock drums on rear as of now)

     

    I am running stock style 14 inch mesh wheels and have to run a thin spacer in the front to clear calipers. Once I upgrade to the rear mustang setup I will have to have atleast a 16 inch wheel.

     

    What I want to know is what wheel/tire dimensions I need to get. I do NOT want to run the spacers in the front anymore.

     

    Looking for wheels to clear front calipers with no spacer, be atleast 16 inch wheels and fit under my stock fenders.

     

    Am interested in Watanabe style Rota's for now. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thank you in advance.

    -Uri

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by TrikeZ

    Curious, how long is the old bolt compared to new? You could compare while in the slave cylinder, to the new one. I'd guess it's longer and somebody had a short collar problem.

     

    I wrote a bunch about checking parts then went back and saw this - "So I just installed a new stock LuK clutch kit in my Z, new slave, master, T.O. bearing and springs, and pivot ball.". Are you sure that pivot ball is correct? That would cause problems if it wasn't.

     

    That 0.4 inches of travel though, is still key. If something was bottoming out mechanically, that might stop slave piston travel. But if there's nothing stopping it you need to get it to spec.

     

    Yes, pivot ball was exactly the same. Old one just had some wear marks on it.

     

    When the clutch was installed and in the car. I had to put in a much longer pushrod to even get the car into gear, but by doing that the TO bearing must be right up against the pressure plate and then it would get burnt out.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Just remembered something that I did on the very first clutch I ever worked on - put the disc in backwards. It rubbed on the flywheel bolts and wouldn't disengage.

     

    My friend told me that I might have done that but when I pulled it all back out it was in the correct way.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Interesting. My thought process just opens up the spec. for that measurement down to 82 mm. Thanks for sharing.

     

    I think that your mechanical parts are fine. 92 mm has worked for many people and it's probably no coincidence that your new pressure plate gives that number.

     

    I'd go back to that 0.4 inch of travel from your hydraulics. You can probably explore that further with the slave cylinder hanging. You were getting less than 1/3 of the stroke you should have been getting.

    Yeah, it is strange. The old system worked fine except I had a leaking master and then the old disc broke a Marcel. But other than that the slave had a homemade push rod(bolt with head ground off).

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Your method gives the distance from the end of the crankshaft to the top of the ears then. Not the same as what I showed but it does imply that your old setup was shorter than what I recommended since the method measures a longer distance. I'd just flip, stack, and measure.

     

    Here's another picture for future reference. Should have mentioned it sooner but I forgot. It shows where the end of the clutch fork is, indirectly showing what you have inside, on a properly working clutch. I came up with as a way to check the collar and pressure plate stack height from the outside. It's been a while since anyone had a problem though.

    Old clutch does not meet your specification. While the new one does meet your specification, it did not disengage when installed.

    post-45133-0-31332500-1459910226_thumb.jpg

    post-45133-0-50778100-1459910250_thumb.jpg

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Not sure what you're measuring there. I don't see the pressure plate.

     

    Here's an old picture showing the distance to measure. Same ear you were on but measure down to the pressure plate flange. At the flywheel surface. The caliper isn't quite on the straight edge in the picture but it's close. You get the idea. Hard to hold a camera and caliper and push the button.

    I have the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel and the assembly is up side down.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by TrikeZ

    I meant the FS5R90A or FS5R30A versus the FS5W71B or ...C . BW versus Nissan. Left out the wrong letters.

     

    I thought of why the slave piston might not pop out if the short collar is used with the short pressure plate. Maybe the back of the fork bottoms out on the edge of the hole in the case. It would probably leave a mark.

    So I got the measurements for both the old and new clutches and collars.

     

    I measured from outside flywheel(crank mounting surface) to outside of pressure plate fingers(TO Bearing side). Then I measured the TO bearing face to opposing collar flange.

     

    On the OLD clutch and collar totaled to just over 93 mm. The NEW clutch and collar totaled to about 103.5 mm.

     

    I am not sure if that is how I am supposed to measure it but those are the measurements I got.post-45133-0-59525600-1459895556_thumb.jpgpost-45133-0-12009800-1459895580_thumb.jpg

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    You're not getting the whole picture. The collar and the pressure plate are a matched set. There are several pressure plate heights and several collars to fit those plates. The matched set should have the ears of the collar 92 mm away from the flywheel surface with the collar in position on the pressure plate release levers (fingers). Hold a straightedge on an ear and get that measurement. I will never install a transmission in a Z without ensuring that 92 mm distance. +/- a couple mm probably okay, but 92 is the target. Several others have verified it.

     

    It works because the pivot point for the clutch and the mounting position of the slave are the same across many years of Z's and ZX's. 71B and 71C transmissions. Not sure about the FS5... series. Likely the same though since the same clutches are used.

    I was not aware of this. I will definitely measure this out. And get back to you. Thanks for the info.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Did you replace the throwout bearing and collar? There are a few different collars out there, and if you put a new one in there without the proper offset, you will have the problem you describe. Been there, done that....

    Yes, I did replace both the throwout bearing and collar. I got them both from Zcardepot and both were in factory Nissan packaging. The old and new collars are the same. I will take pictures of everything tomorrow.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by TrikeZ

    You assume that the slave and master are the same diameter, NewZed.

     

    Not all of them are. I know that in my Z, I have a 3/4" clutch master and a 5/8" slave...my slave moves further than the master. If I install a 3/4" slave then they move the same amount, and if I was to install the 5/8" clutch master and 3/4" slave, then the slave would move LESS than the master.

     

    Check and see that your slave cylinder and master cylinder diameters are correct, while you're down there, TrikeZ

    Both slave and master are both stock replacements. I know the master is 5/8, the slave seems to be the same diameter but it is not stamped. And neither are leaking.

     

    I tried some more things out but none lead to an answer. I put in a much longer pushrod for the slave(was VERY DIFFICULT to make fit and bolt up) and trans finally went into forward gears with a little bit of extra push on shifter, reverse grinded everytime and HARD to go in. Did not like that at all, didn't feel right. I was sure that the TO bearing would be pressing against fingers and then get burnt out fast.

     

    I pulled the trans out again and inspected further, I recompared the clutch old/new. I noticed that the new pressure plate fingers were just a hair over 1/4 inch further OUT from clutch disc than they were on the old. Just overlooked it the first time.

     

    My car was swapped with an L26 by previous owner, it's mated to a 4 speed. Is there a difference in clutches between 240z and 260z? The new clutch I got was for a 260z.

    It is a LuK clutch kit part #06-029.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Did you replace the throwout bearing and collar? There are a few different collars out there, and if you put a new one in there without the proper offset, you will have the problem you describe. Been there, done that....

     

    Yeah, I replaced the TO bearing and collar. They were the same as the old ones.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    You said you got a new master cylinder? Did you keep the old one? I know a lot of people have had problems with newer clutch master cylinders having too short of a master cylinder pushrod, causing the clutch to not get enough travel. If you kept your old master, see if you can put the old master cylinder pushrod into the new one. Otherwise you're gonna need to figure out a way to lengthen the master cylinder pushrod. Now I may be wrong here, as I think it may have been model specific somehow (240z or 280z) but worth looking into. I'm in the same boat as you right now but haven't really started chasing down my problem yet. Also did you bench bleed the master?

     

    Yes, I still have the old M/C I will check the rod lengths ASAP. And yes, I also bench bleed it as well.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I would guess that this is your problem. I'm not sure what you mean by "any if possible" but the clevis at the master cylinder rod can be adjusted where it attaches to the pedal. You can do it with a pair of pliers. Loosen the lock nut and turn the rod to make it longer. Run it out until you get proper play at the pedal.

     

     

    Yes, I have adjusted the clevis at the pedal in both directions, no luck.

    240z new clutch problem

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    So I just installed a new stock LuK clutch kit in my Z, new slave, master, T.O. bearing and springs, and pivot ball. I had the flywheel resurfaced. Old clutch disc broke a Marcel spring so out it came.

     

    The problem I'm having is that the trans wont go into gear. The clutch is not disengaging completely. I have bled the system to the best of my ability manually and also with a vacuum bleeder.

     

    I had the car up on jack stands, it WOULD go into gear and spin the tires, as soon as I pushed the clutch AND brake pedal in the engine would begin to stumble a little(clutch not fully disengaging)

     

    I then dropped the car to the floor to attempt to go on a test drive, but then the car won't go into gear.

     

    I have adjusted the pedal forwards and backwards and no luck. Rebleed the system, no luck.

     

    I then measured the stroke of the slave cylinder rod. From face of the slave to face of the clutch fork was 1.256 inches. Then with the clutch pedal DEPRESSED(pushed in) measured 1.675 inches. Service manual says the stroke should be 35mm or 1.378 inches. I had just over 0.4 in of travel.

     

    I am not sure if it can be adjusted any if possible. But I am sure that everything went together properly, the only things I can think of are air in system, bent fork, or misadjustment.

     

    Any advice or tips would be appreciated. As I do not want to have to pull the trans out again unless absolutely necessary.

     

    Thanks,

    TrikeZ

    73 240z L26 alternator

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hello, as I wrote in the title I have a 1973 240z swapped with an L26(done by PO).

     

    Last night on my drive back home I noticed that it would the engine would stumble at times almost like a misfire. And lights dimmed/flickered a bit when idling at a stop.

     

    So, I busted out the multimeter and with the car ON, engine running, battery tested 16.6 volts, same with the alternator terminal. Car OFF, battery tested 14.8 volts. So, it is overcharging.

     

    I suspect the external voltage regulator went out. As I am likely needing to replace it, I wanted to know if there was an upgrade kit for an internally regulated hirgher amp output alternator such as the one for a 70-72 Z which is on TheZStore?

     

    Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you

    Toyota Brakes Difficulties

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I always carry a wrench that fits the bleeders on the MC when road testing just for this situation. When the brakes start to seize from having the push rod too long you can unlock the brakes by opening the bleed screws on the MC to relieve the pressure so you can limp home to readjust the push rod in small increments.

     

    You may know this, but you do not have to disconnect the MC to adjust the push rod. There is enough flex in the hard lines to pull the MC out and push it aside to access the push rod.

    Thanks for the advice. Only wish I knew about the MC bleeders earlier, I didn't of think of it. I will be carrying a wrench set in the car from now on. Thank you

    Toyota Brakes Difficulties

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    If the caliper is OK when you get home, you may have an incorrectly adjusted master cyl push rod. If you adjust the rod out too far or adjust out all of the slack in the pedal, it is possible to partially or completely cover the port to the reservoir. When this happens the fluid heats and expands as you drive and basically the farther you drive the more the brakes get applied. Once it cools down the fluid contracts and the caliper won't be locked on anymore.

     

    This is most likely my problem, it locked on me again today on a cruise around my street to test them. I had to adjust my pushrod when I installed the new MC. when I push the brake pedal there is VERY LITTLE to no free play.

     

    I had to have my brother come pull me around the corner home.

     

    The pedal was VERY hard and barely moved at all after it locked. I could not move the car forward or reverse under its own power due to the brakes holding.

     

    I will adjust my pushrod as soon as I get a chance. Thank you.

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