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OrangeCrush

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Posts posted by OrangeCrush

  1. Quick fix is to drop the tank, remove sending unit, WEAR Thick Rubber GLOVES and GOGGLES, carefully put in half a gallon of muriatic acid, swish around and spill out. Put in another half gallon swish around and spill out. Wash out with lots of water. The tank will be very clean inside. ream out all hose connections with a stiff wire. Reinstall tank. Install a new inline fuel filter between the tank and pump.

     

     

    I have managed to save two fuel pumps by carefully lowering the pump end of the pumps in some muriatic acid, then rinse with paint thinner. Carefull not to submerse the electrical components. Note, this will only work if the motor was not power cycled to the point of damaging the electrical components.

  2. I have the 85 to 88 maxima caliper and the maxima bracket no.# 44155-04S10

    and 81 to 82 280zx rotor, but it seems like a need a spacer to go in between the caliper and the caliper bracket so the rotor is centered in the caliper, im wondering if i have the wrong combination. 72 240z

     

    The part number 44155-04S10, is for the earlier Maxima brackets (the offset ones), not the 85-88 flat type (sold on ebay for $35 a pair that require $75 in machine work). The ZX rotors for 81 and 82 are not the same.

     

    So what does ozzinc really have?

  3. The Rustoleum Custom Color Program seems to have faded from glory. The link you posted above leads back to a page at Rustoleum's web site, where they still have the Tremec masstone base for the custom color mix, I did not go any further to see if they still list others.

     

    I would think most Rustoleum dealers would still have the recipe for the custom colors on file. Go to a decent paint store and give them a try.

     

    I happen to still have this brochure -

     

     

     

     

    scan0003.jpg

     

     

     

    scan0002.jpg

  4. I though about it but it was an L28 engine thread and the fuel tank/cell mods would be necessary regardless of the engine, it's more the intended purpose of the car.

     

    You may be right. I asked for this ingredient of the turbo setups you guys are running, for a selfish reason. I am putting a 280zxt driveline in a 240. I am wanting to keep my setup from going lean.

     

    I have never had a turbo car before. Though I have had a few big block, fuel guzzlers, that merely required nothing (or very little modding over stock) to get the flow to the carbs. My desire to see what is successfully working for you guys, made me ask. I was hoping the list of setups would be a "one stop shopping thread".

  5. Some of you guys have listed your fuel cells. Most don't mention if your using a stock fuel tank and a surge tank. I think listing what fuel components your using would be very benefical information, a key component that gets overlooked everywhere else (it seems).

     

    Thanks for participating in this thread! Great stuff

  6. Challenger,

     

    It's a shame you cut those backing plates to remove them. You could have sold them on ebay (or somewhere), to raise some $. The late 77 & 78 cars have the better (and much cheaper wheel cylinders), which is also considered a good upgrade for the earlier S30.

     

    Did you check out the group buy brake bracket thread?

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115339

     

    Good Luck!

  7. I bought my Tbird new in 97 (it's a 96). The front pads always did drag a little. Always sounded like a slight scuff, when pushing the bike out of the garage. I just changed my front pads for the first time last week. I did go for the same pads you have. My bike has just 14,000 miles on it now. No sign of undo rotor wear. The new pads do feel great. I am not going to re- learn how to do a stoppy!

     

    I am a dumbass, though. My Tbird only has one caliper/ rotor set up (as built). I just thought I would post about the expected life of my bike pads.

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