G-rib-73-240z
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Posts posted by G-rib-73-240z
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This is awsome, I came up with an idea similar to this one last friday at applebees. I started looking to see if someone has done something similar and here i am, and better idea then my idea I might add. Im glad someone is doing it so i can find out how it works out, very clean set up xnke. I might do something similar to this instead of weld in injector bungs and hope for the best. Good work, and i hope you figure out your problems and get this thing running, id love to see a video of you driving it and mashing on it. Your idle in that one video sounded cool.
Thomas Gribble
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why is this in this section??? snap on is meant for like hundreds of hours of use per month, but harbor freight will work fine imo i used harbor freight and they turned out real clean!!
I dont know about the whole snap on is ment for hundreds of hours of use per month, all we use at my work is snap on and their taps are over priced junk, id rather use a carbide tap then a hhs only real problem you could face with carbide is droping it, or getting a feed wrong in a mill or lathe but seeing as you would be doing this by hand you shouldnt have a problem if you do it by hand.
the only good thing about snap on is once you buy it you can get it replaced by snap on for free as long as it says snap on.
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may i ask what your rough angle is from your throttle body to port 1(cylender one) this is similar to me and my roommates plans for my intake.
Thomas Gribble
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Here are some pictures showing the new Spinwerkes 15x10 wheels (5.25" backspace), and the new to me Hoosier 23.0 x 9.5 x 15 FA radial slicks.
they look nice but look kinda small no offence, but very beautiful car :]
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are you talking about a ford 289 sbf or a slightly over bore size 283 chevy?
also, Id point out that a running engine for $800 if your looking for transportation may be a bargin , but if your looking for performance a 283 based chevy v8 would hardly be a good basic starting point
yea the 283 chevy my bad i got confused for a minute. would it be worth it for a runner for the car? 800 bucks for a running motor?
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hey grumpyvette,
would an unknown spec running 289 freshly rebuilt be worth 800 bucks?
like i said unknown specs but it was built for a ss malibu, and it apparetly "hauls" in the malibu. wasnt engine dynoed or anything just seat of the pants tested. But the guy said 800 bucks for everything but the intake and carb. i asked my friend to askem what the actual specs are and he could take me overthere to talk to him in person. What do you think?
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doesnt look twisted enogh to be a twin screw so im thinking its a roots should be 3 blades or w/e on each side if it was twin screw itd be like 5 on 3 if i remember right or some wierd set up. i hurd roots have a tendency for the manifold presure to get to high and it starts leaking backwards threw the blower, but i think if it uses that teflon strips it doesnt let the manifold pressure back out of the blower when it becomes to great but im not sure. I not a genious and such, just going off random stuff i learn from my work and internet reading, ya know?
should stll be a good fun to run set up. I was personaly thinking about doing a set up similar but i didnt want to owe my boss money for a blower and all that jazz and knowing my luck id end up wraping my 240 around a light pole or something.
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what kinda supercharger is it? looks like some type of variation of a whipple but we dont use teflon strips as a sealer. Is it a roots style or a twin screw?
i honostly cant see much from your pics, im not a "master" about it or nothign or wanna come off as one, but id say have a certified person rebuild it, new bearing teflon strips, and gears, but you prolly already know that much. while its appart you could probably get it polished or powdercoated whatever your poisen is.
edit; does it say b&m on there? and looks like a roots style to me
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hey Grumpyvette
I took forever to actually get it done but i finaly pulled the motor appart mostly looks like a simple rehone and new pistons will make it good but my co workers telling me to go .0030 just to have it .0030 over, what is your opinion on this?
I was also relooking at cams and i was wondering would this cam me a little beefier they stock ,CCA-CL12-224-4, i was going to have the motor carbed and was thinking about a single plane intake with a 800 or a 825 (i think it was 825) cfm carb. Also, would that be a big enough carb for that cam?
i know thats alot of questions with not alot of info, the car will be used for daily use im not really going to worry about gas mialage i mean hey, it's a 350. The car will also be used for crusing and what not.
thanks for any and all advice you give me.
Thomas Gribble
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I am new to this so please bare with me. I own a 78 280z that hasn't ran in who knows how long. It has been sitting in my storage building for about 7 years. I know that you can buy the V8 kits from Jagsthatrun.com but I am interested in putting an Ls 1 w/ a turbo 350 trans. My question is where can I buy a kit mounts, headers etc... at for this specific kit? If anyone could through some suggestions out there I would appreciate it.
I think you have to build your own custom mounts for a ls1 but im not 100% sure on that ya know? The ls1 forums the gen 3/4 forum, they could most likely help you better then here
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Is that 2 glasspacks on there? How does that sound? i was thinking about doing just a set of 23 inch purple hornys and no muffs. Hows your setup sound?
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Most likely he is using the LS intake with the newer gen 3/4 style vortec heads and block that have different shape ports then the older engines.
For your 80-84 gen1 block you want to use the 96-99 style vortec heads. They will bolt right on. I'm using them on a 70 4 bolt main block. Then just find a manifold you like with the vortec pattern.
Hope that helps.
darn thats depressing, not really woulda been cool to use a ls1 type intake they look soo cool but i dont have the money for a ls1 haha. It helps, as i always tell Grumpy when i ask him weird questions. My job is extreamly boring and so is my life so all i do is think think think. Then before i know it im thinking of ideas that end up not workable or so you know what i mean?
Thomas
ps thanks again for the help
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http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_gm_bow_tie_vortec_small_block_engine/index.html
don,t ignore the far better large port versions I linked to earlier in this thread
Theres a guy in the gen III and IV chevys putting a ls1 intake on a block with vortec heads i think and i was wondering if i use vortecs could i use a ls1 tpi intake or am i understanding it wrong? do they have the same bolt pattern or whatever? or am i totally off my rocker in thinking this?
I like the way the ls 1 intakes look better then the tpi ones, and i just thought of something while typing this. If my blocks a 80-84 block can i still use vortec style heads and tpi manifold if i cant use a ls1 intake?
Does what im asking make sence?
Thomas
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As long as the intake manifold has the "vortec" bolt pattern it will work with vortec heads.
Like these ones.
You also have the option to get new vortec heads if you dont feel like putting junkyard parts on.
yea i thought about that. Half the people i know are like "you dont need to spend that much on heads" im like.... stock heads dont flow good past like .420 lift i hurd. I dont know about stock vortecs tho, i will probably end up getting heads like those tho.
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All my book says is 14010207 is a 80-85 350 and it could be a 2 or 4 bolt main block.
Thanks, i couldnt find it in the book i got it only talked about bowties and didnt help. i havent torn it down yet been waiting to have time to might get it donw this weekend.
if i use some vortec heads off a truck could i use a aftermarket tpi intake mani? might go tpi instead of carbed.
thanks again
Thomas
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Wait, the number has 8 digits? Are you looking at a number cast into the block? The number you want is the one stamped into the block, on the passenger side near the transmission bellhousing. It'll be L24-_______ and the serial number should only be 6 digits long. For a '73 240Z the serial number would be roughly between 120,000 and 170,000.
sorry, my mom was rushing me off MY computer to do w/e she wanted.
Its a sbc 350 i bought from a friends friend who had it ina garage at a friends for storage, they couldnt remember the year was an 80 something camaro they said.
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ok so ive beennlooking for kits and such for building my motor like basic rebuild kits. cept ive come onto the problem of what year is my block.
my casting number is 14010207 i think enless what the guy i bought it from showered me the wrong thing.
could you tell me the year based off the casting number?
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youll want 3.5" long 3/8 nc grade 8 bolts for most engine stands and don,t forget to buy 4 fender washers to prevent the heads of the bolts getting into the stands rotating head mount
okies thanks again
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Grumpy,
i know im a pain but whats the bolt size and thred count or w/e for the trany on the back of a 350? i need to buy some bolts to put my block on astand so i can tear it down. but no one will tell me a straight answer it is quite lame.
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Does anyone know how to determine by looking at the outside of a tank, what a 280Z fuel injected tank looks like as apposed to a non fuel injection tank like a 240Z, Just trying to figure out which one I have. The PO told me it had a 280Z tank but how can I be sure? Thanks
Larry
i honostly dont know the diff but i "think" the 280z one is bigger or longer on one side. i read it somewhere on here i just dont remember where, try looking in the fuel forum or the 240/260/280 forum, im sorry im not much help as my memory is horrible
hope you find what your looking for.
Thomas
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Converting the rotating belts energy from the spinning crank, into electricity with the alt, and the electricity back into rotating energy to drive the water pump, is bound to reduce efficiency over just using the belt to drive the water pump. Besides electric water pumps rarely flow enough water to cool as effectively as the better belt driven water pumps.
Sweet thats what i was basicly wondering, thanks. Was just a random thought i had and wanted to find out if it was worth it ya know? Nothing but polishing at work and its borign so all i do is think all day causes ideas and the like to accur so then i gatta ask.
Thomas
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your correct the water pump induces far more resistance to rotation than an altenator , and Ive seen guys run on the track without the alt, but it tends to be a problem if you run for long as even slightly low voltage in a battery will reduce the ignitions effective spark, and running a larger battery adds significant extra weight.
oops i lost ya somewhere, or i miss typed my question. I was asking if you think running just and alt off the crank and an electric waterpump would be more "efficient". Then running one off the crank and and alternator, or would the cost of the electric waterpump outwiegh its worth compaired to the stock? I hope that makes more sence, im talking on a daily drivin car with an alt, the story about my coworkers nova was what gave me the idea.
Thomas
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Grumpyvette
One of my coworkers friend drag races his nova with out a alt because thats all he does is drag races it, i was told its because it causes less drag on the motor. now a couple days ago i was thinking while i was preping a supercharger case at work (its where i get most of my thinking done) if less drag was wanted why not use an electric water pump and only have the crankpully to the alt. Does that make sence? instead of having the belt go crank to alt to waterpump (or whatever order) just have crank to alt. or would that cause just as much drag? i was thinking just run a bigger alt, like a 150 amp one or something as aposed to a 80 or something.
Sorry that i jump around a lot with my questions, i just randomly have thoughts and wonder/ponder.
Thomas Gribble
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Holleys generally cost less, than demons, but that’s NOT how you select carburetors, you figure out what you need for your application, first, and buy that or look for one you can buy at a swap meet, Craig’s list, in the local classifieds, ETC. you don,t settle for something you find at a good or the best price on the wrong carburetor, as it gains you very little! and a great (DEAL) on the wrong carb, can cause you constant problems.
now that being said, youll seldom have problems with a vacume secondary holley or demon carb .in the 700cfm-850cfm range on a performance sbc application if the correct intake, cam,heads, drive train gearing and low restriction exhaust is used in the build, while it might not get you to your full potential, its certainly going to function if your decent a tunning the combo, if theres nothing wrong with the rest of the combo.
now on the BLOCK, take it to a local shop for cleaning, inspection,and if it passed inspection, have new cam bearings installed, theres no sence dumping more money into the build UNTILL your sure the blocks solid and reuseable.
http://www.holley.com/applications/CarburetorSelector/CarbSelection.asp
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125
will do i need to get my friends motor stand or something because theres oil in the pan and some of its on my garage floor haha, so when i think of how to drain the oil i can tear it appart and see if it was a rod knock or something else. there is just about no ledge in the cylender so if anything im ganna have it rehoned atleast to be safe. he told me to have my friend call him before i buy anything so he can see if any one of his friends have it cheaper, or can find it cheaper.
SU EFI Manifold Update
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
has anyone ever tested this? because i am doing a similar setup but with only the su intake and j30 throttlebodys have to find room for injectors before the flange, and removing this would help.
Thanks for any answers givin.
Thomas Gribble