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jmhtx

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Posts posted by jmhtx

  1. Alright so I installed the big brake kits front and rear from t3 and they fit and look beautiful!!! E-brake function works perfect! Only problem im having is that my pedal goes to the floor on the first push and then gets pressure on the second and so on. I think i still migh have air in the system, so i will rebleed the master and all four corners. When the brakes did grab they felt amazing haha. I have absolutely zero clearance issues. I took some pictures with the wheels on:

    These are xxr 531's 16x9 with 0 offset

     

     

     

    Out of curiosity what Master Cylinder are you using?  What about the Brake Booster?

  2. I've got a 1971 240z it currently still has the L24 in it.  

     

    I am in the process of upgrading the drive train and engine as follows:

     

    L28 (some details to be determined)

    240SX Transmission (modified 5 speed bell housing and transmission mounts)

    STI R180

    New Moustache bar from a 1973+

    New front diff mount from a 1973+

    CV axles

     

    (and other suspension and brake items that I don't think are related).

     

    Before I get started, I want to make sure I've my ducks lined up, I've been through the various sites and posts most have related to the 73 and newer swaps.

     

    As I understand it, the 240SX transmission will bolt up with a modified bell housing and relocation of the transmission mount.  I've read conflicting things about where the shifter will land in the 1971's but I think it lines up perfectly with the original position of the 4 speed shifter and will not hit the console.  

     

    The 240sx is longer than the 240Z-280Z transmissions, but the 1970/71 has the rear diff more forward than the 73+ models.  So I think if I relocate the rear diff to the 73+ and more rearward position with an new mustache bar and new front diff mount, I can use the 1971 drive shaft.  

     

    Am I missing anything or have anything wrong?

  3. Looking at headers and exhaust for my 1971 240z, and these look like a super option with all of the boxes checked.  I currently have the 2.4L in my Z, but may move up to a 2.8L in the future.  

     

    Are there different versions of your headers for the different square/rectangular port vs the round port heads?  I see only a mention of rectangular ports.

     

    Other headers are port specific, and not sure I if I am missing something on these. 

     

    Thanks. 

  4. Did this tonight I got a crappy 240Z mirror to pull the ball attachment and two Hyundai Accent mirror off eBay.   Used the soldering iron to remove the good mirror and harvested parts off the two other mirrors.  

     

    I used the same screw with slight bend in the ball holder.  

     

    A couple of notes on reassembly, I started sprayed a little silicone spray on the edges of the mirror base and started the mirror from one side and slid it mostly in.  The Hyundai mirror base will flex to open of you push it in the center of the back.  A few towels under the mirror on the floor, and put a little body weight on it, and the rest of mirror popped right in.  Very simple.  

     

    Thanks for doing the leg work to find this.  Significant improvement in stability of the mirror and much better rear view.  

  5. My advice is to go with the cheap BOSS adapter.  I got a pricey Nardi branded one the alignment of the turn signal cancel switches was off by 30 degrees.  The Nardi wheel has 6 bolts 60 degrees apart and on the wheel I have the two bolts that are bisected horizontally should align with the turn signal cancel switches.   Mine had the left side high by 30 degrees and the right side low by 30 degrees because the adapter was clocked incorrectly.  

     

    While it worked, when making shallow left turns the turn signal cancel tabs didn't cancel with turn signal.  The cheap ebay BOSS adapter had the turn signal cancel tabs in alignment with the horizon when the wheel was mounted.     

  6. Todd's passing and product availability uncertainty from WCR is what prompted looking for another source.  

     

    I sent Troy Ermish an email yesterday and in his response he assured me his CV Axles would work with the Beta Subaru conversion side axles and in a 240Z.  So that is the direction I am headed now.     

  7. I see a lot of references to Wolf Creek Racing CV conversions but not that many to the Ermish Racing ones.

     

    Ermish comes up in a few google searches, but the Wolf Creek seems to have a far greater installed base.

     

    I can't discern a difference between the two kits except a few dollars difference in price.  Any reason to not go with the Ermish ones for a R180 conversion as Wolf Creek is bit in limbo right now?

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