nitekillerz
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Posts posted by nitekillerz
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Hey guys so I'm having huge issues mounting the alternator to my engine. Ive tried over 4 options to mount it. at first i tried using alternator only brackets but none fit. then i gave up and went to use the stock Camaro acc bracket. i gutted the ps pump to use it as a pulley. now i ordered a doorman ac delete pulley but it is way too big and hits the frame rail. at this point I've had no other luck thinking of ways to mount it. really frustrated with this. I've looked it up and haven't found anything that works.
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Looking for the complete package or parts of it for my 260z.
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Looking for the complete package or parts of it for my 260z.
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Thank you guys
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I recently purchased a 260z, it came with five wheels I was told were original 260z wheels. Can anybody confirm this and tell me the specs? Like what material they are and where can I find the center caps
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I have a 260z thats wiring wise all stock. My fuel, clock and tach(sometimes) gauges all work. My voltage is stuck somewhere in negative so I'm not sure if thats electrical issues involving alternator but i don't mind that one not working. My oil and water gauge does not work. I have a newly bought oil sender, the bullet type water temp sender(is this the sender) with single bullet connector connected but the sensor next to it with two wires coming out isn't connected because they were cut completely off.
I took off gauge and put battery + terminal to ign(G) and the black wire to ground. i then grounded my oil wire(Y/B) and it only moves to the 0 position. i thought it was supposed to move all the way? Is the gauge bad?
Any help is appreciated as i really can't afford one right now and don't want to run my car without either of these gauges.
Also how can i tell if my water pump is working? I have no leaks but i feel the engine gets very hot very quickly. I took the radiator cap off and i thought bubbles would come out or you would see the coolant flowing or moving but it was very still. I'm afraid thats also bad.
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Thats a very good site but you don't need to modify the distributor unless it has too much timing built in.
What you want to achieve is around 34 degrees total once the dizzy stops advancing and not be concerned about idle assuming its reasonable,,,somewhere above 5 degrees.
So, you need to find out how much advance your dizzy has currently.
1. Disconnect the vacuum from the dizzy
2. Get a fabric type tape measure, like the ones tailors use. Wrap it around the balancer to get the circumference. Say its 37cm. Divide 37 by 360(degrees). Gives you .102 cm. That tells you every .102cm is 1 degree of timing. We want to mark where 34 degrees is on the balancer. So, multiple .102 x 34 (degrees) which equals 3.49 cm.
3. Now measure 3.49 cm to the right (clockwise) of your zero mark on the balancer. Mark it with white or some bright paint so you can see it with the timing light.
4. Rev the car while using the timing light up to around 2,500 or when the mark stops advancing then adjust the distributor so your new mark stops at the zero number on the factory timing scale/gauge/marker.
thank you for this, very useful. one quick newbie question. how do adjust the dizzy itself?
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as a side note, when i did not have my master connected the pedal returned instantly because it had nothing connected besides spring
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Is there a return spring on the pedal?
yes there is a return spring on the pedal.
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Hey guys i recently got my 260z running but have only been able to move forward and back a couple inches(i put it under a tree and then was blocked by other cars lol). What i have felt compared to my 2009 car is that the clutch pedal comes back very slowly instead on almost instantly like my newer car. I am not sure if its just an old car thing because i drove my friends MK3 supra and it did the same or just both our cars have problems. I have replaced master and slave cylinder and bled the system. My major concern is ill feel like when I'm speeding that ill be eating half my clutch while changing gears rapidly.
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http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/
This is where I'm getting my information on timing and triples
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So I would set the timing advance on the dizzy? How much should it be and how do I limit from going too much and detonating?
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I bought my 260z with triples installed. I was able to get the engine to fire it up but only iddle. My question is, with this setup will the standard distributor left stock will vacuum connected work? I've heard triples need advanced timing in mid teens but if you do with vacuum it'll run in 40s at WOT and could detonate.
Below is a picture if my distributor. How do I know if it was modified already?
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And I thought early 260z had turn signals that were on grill and quarter panels?
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That's the stock bumper? And is it true about the different compression ratios and diffs?
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I recently bought my first z. I was wondering if this was an early or late 260z as I don't have plate on my door. I have the serial number. Previous other said it has a Porsche bumper so I also can't tell. Only reason I care is that late 260z had higher compression and r200(is that right?)
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I'm limited to Florida and Georgia and honestly for Georgia it would have to be a pretty good z. The interior of this one looks pretty clean but my biggest issue is rust and wether the side rails have too much of it and the whole car might be worse. I know rust pretty much comes with any z but that one is asking too much money for that condition in my opinion. And yes I have another car I use for school and work.
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That's what I was thinking, thank you. Unfortunately here in Florida there are no good Z's either they're restored and expensive or shit. I'll keep saving and looking.
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I want it to be a weekend cruiser for now, fix rust, and the problems it brings and eventually after a couple years of saving, put a lsx in it. I have zero actual experience on cars but can learn quickly and know how to weld and do electrical issues. I want to get opinions of others as far as if they would go for it.
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http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/4953472567.html
That's the add for it.
Those are the pictures he's sent, should I ask for another specific area? I'm just scared of buying a nightmare instead of my dream z. Thank you for your help.
It does have a blow through carb setup that I know little about.
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Hey guys, new member to the forum but have been following it for years. I'm a college student who loves z's but on a low budget. I have been into the s30's since freshman year in high schools. I want to buy a good z with a solid base but my budget is 3k right now. I found one and wanted to see if you guys think it's worth 3k.
Sun Visor Bracket New
in Interior
Posted
Posting from another forum by the user sfm6s524.
I am the seller. You guys can ask questions here or contact me by etsy as i check that more.
Original etsy listing here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/668444381/datsun-240z-260z-280z-sun-visor-bracket?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=car+sun+visor&ref=sr_gallery-1-5&frs=1
On a 71 240 Z I have, the piece that holds the sun visors in place that mounts beneath the rear view mirror, broke on the drivers side. It was pretty annoying having the visor flop around, and I finally took the visor off until I could locate a replacement part.
Searched all over the place for another, no luck. Finally saw one on Etsy from a person who has a 3D printer named PlasticWiz, figured I'd give it a try.
Removed my old one, which basically disintegrated while trying to pop it loose from the vinyl covered roof frame. Sanded the new ABS piece a bit and painted black. I suppose the "print lines" could be removed completely with a lot of work, but for this car I just wanted a functional piece.
Here it is mounted ready to pop in the rear view mirror.
I've never used a 3D printed part on any of my cars, but I must say this really did the trick for a difficult part to find.
Anyway, just thought I'd post this since I couldn't find any recent help on this part. I may order another for my other Z just in case...