ch3vyboi
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Posts posted by ch3vyboi
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spotted this z the day after i sold mine. car was spotted on veterans expressway in tampa,fl. just figured i would post the pics.
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I was going to say, try to buy one of the other z's. I can assure you if your frame rail is that bad, your just getting started finding rust. It will be worse, WAY worse. I know from experience.
thats exactly what i was thinking.
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was waiting for doug to get off the phone today at the shop and took the chance to take some pictures of my car and other pics around the shop
the 2nd pic is of the front left frame rail that was ripped open and rusted looking into the price of replacing these and also the under floorpan frame rails from zedd findings if i were to keep the car
the gold 280z is/was an awd conversion that i think was abandoned but i am not sure did not ask
the blue 240z was in the back and in pretty good condition thinking about asking him what the deal is with it and if its for sale
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he has my old motor pulled and started doing a slight rebuild on the new motor that was in the shop. but i am contemplating telling him not to do anymore work tow it home and sell it. there is a lot still wrong with this car even after this is all fixed and its stressing me out to even think about it. i still need to have the frame rails under the seat welded in. i took out the stock seat mount with the old rusted floor thinking that it was ok for me to bolt a sparco brand universal flat mount seat bracket straight to the floor and was not aware that this was unsafe and that i also need that seat bracket as a brace. Also i had a buddy of mine pull the car around the block to his house to weld on it when the car was not running and he was a little to happy on the throttle and he ripped lose one of the front tow hooks. i originally thought that it was just the hook that broke but now that the engine and radiator is removed i can see that it has actually ripped open the front of the boxed frame rail. all this added to the fact that this car has broken doors and hatch and needs a new ignition key switch.
when i started this project times were pretty good and i had time and money to put towards it but since then my aunt passed away from breast cancer, my mom had hip replacement surgery, continental airlines shut down my dads call center, and then the car died. so im pretty much in over my head now. and i also have 3 other projects ('74 nova, '48 chevy fleetline, 1990 rx7 fd) which are all closer to being finished than this one. a week or so before my aunt passed away my aunt bought a '99 Volvo for $4000 and they are liquidating assets and will allow me to pay $1800 for it so there is money into the estate, and i thinking my plan is to make as much as i can off of this car to but me towards my goal of $1800 + auto train fees from va to fl.
if i were to sell it with the blown engine, the good 5 speed tranny, and the exhaust and headers that i bought the car with but i would pull my sparco seat (to sell separately or maybe keep to go into one of my other projects) + i still have 2 different non turbo heads, a p90 head, a turbo block, 2 turbo valve covers, turbo crank, l24 crank, and a red cloth mk3 supra seat that came in the car that i would throw in with it as well. what is this worth?
im just trying to get rid of all of this and get reliable transportation. so if any mods read this is there anyway i can have the fee waived for the buy sell section due to the situation to help get rid of this. i would love to really dig into this car and fix everything like i have see some of you do but without reliable transportation its not going to happen.
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people will offer to help and show you stuff if your paying for a grand of work.
Really though, you could have a running L28 in your car for less than $500, alot of people would be willing to help you get it in. Plus you can learn valuable info for anything in the future as far as swaps go. You'll probably have it up and running in a day or two for atleast half the cost.
i am aware but the motor hes putting in is very low mileage, and runs strong. he is also fixing electrical problems the car has been having and repairing my door locks and linkage. if this was a weekend only car i would have just done it myself but my nova happens to be out of service at the same time and i need reliable transportation asap.
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I`ll be in Tampa in July.Where in Tampa is the ZFEVER ? I might just stop by.
4715 n clark ave tampa,fl 33614
its by the bucs stadium and the yankees spring training field
owners name is doug, and hes been great with helping me get the car on the road again. also he offered to let me come into the shop and help out and he would teach me some things and they have a dyno in the shop if anyone is interested.
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so i just got back from a well needed vacation to Miami but i read all of your post. i got in contact with a guy named todd that owns a shop in tampa called Z fever. he offered to install another low mileage l24 for $1000 everything included. i am in need of transportation and getting this thing back on the road is my main priority. if i had a way to spend the same $1000 and have a reliable built motor i would but i dont think its possible. let me know if im wrong. im taking my rods, crank, i just bought, back to sell. and i will be taking the intake manifold, carbs, and headers from my old motor for my new one. the rest of the motor i am planning on scraping for $ or i will bring them home if anyone is interested in buying them but i need to know ASAP, beacuse if i dont hear anything by 12:30pm tues april 6 they will most likely be at the scrap yard.
i am not sure if anyone has heard of todd at z fever but he has engine swap post on ebaymotors and has a ebay store. i stopped by his shop yesterday with a lot of questions and he was more than happy to sit down and go over things with me. he is also allowing me to come to the shop and paint my engine bay at the shop before he mounts my new motor. just figured i would put in a good word.
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just got a call from my dad's mechanic and i now im heated what originally told me was a bad crank and rod has turned into a $1500 repair which doesn't seem right to me. does anyone know if this is reasonable, he said something on the lines of timing repair, bearings, water pump. when i originally brought him the car it was because i could hear the knock from the rod, but now im in over my head. but for $1500 i feel there has to be a more cost efficient way than this.
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my dads mechanic could not find the crank and rod so i went to a local shop called "z docs" he had a freshly pulled l24 motor in the shop that was running when pull and offered me the whole motor for $300 or the crank, a rod, and a piston for $150. being a broke college student with little space to store anymore spare parts(being that i have l28t cranks, and p90 heads in my room) i went with the crank and rod for $150. now my dads mechanic is asking for $500 for parts. he has always been good to us but i cant possibly see what the $500 is for, my dad said bearings and timing kit, but thats no where near $500. im a little pissed because if i would have known we were talking about this much work and money i would have bought the whole motor for $300.
still in the search of two doors locks and linkage are broken on both and are rusted pretty bad. drivers doors locks broke with the door shut and cannot be opened for anything. i have had a couple locksmiths look at the car and none can do anything to help me. unless someone suggest a better plan, the plan is to cut out the drivers door once i have acquired a new one. with the passenger door i believe i can just rebuild the linkage and i will also need to replace the window.
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The shifter is held in by a pin with a circlip. Pop circlip from one side, push out pin, remove lever. It may take a teeny, tiny bit of force to pop out of the cup on the trans. Go to autozone and get the HELP! series of brass bushings. Find one in the package that's close. I needed to turn down both the ID and OD of the brass bushing itself as it was too big to fit into the shift lever hole and the pin was too big to slide in.
I don't have a lathe but I found a drill bit that was a tad smaller than the ID, wrapped it in E-tape, forced the bushing over the tape, turned on drill and used a jewlers file to reduce the OD. After that, I hammered it into the lever (with a plastic mallet) for a tight fit. I then reamed out the ID with a dremel cylinder type cutter until the pin slipped in. MUCH better than a 40 year-old plastic bushing
wow, i knew it was more complicated then people made it seem. what is ID and OD?
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Can you hide that muffler a bit? Seems to be too low.
yeah since the first pic i rehung the muffler and got it up like 4"
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Where are those floorpans from? Looks pretty good...
there ZED floorpans coated with truckbed liner
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where are you located?
tampa,fl
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Looks pretty good for $450, nice find. Is that the MSA or xenon airdam that you added? Is is fiberglass or the flexible urethane? I am interested to see where this car goes. Are you going to keep it white or go for a different color?
Elliot
yeah its a urethane airdam i picked up off the forum. im planning on going with a olive drab paint job
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So I started off excited about this project and this excitement is now gone. thought this retro mod would be as easy as my Chevy’s but it hasn’t been. once I finally got the car on the road, and then had a rod bearing go destroying the crank and one rod and can not find them anywhere. I also had my locks break with the car locked and had to bust a window into get in the car. drivers door will not open at all and passengers door will only open from the inside, so now im also looking for 2 doors. I have no key for the hatch and none of the locksmiths in my area can make one so I guess im going to bust the lock out and get a new one with a key. Also shifter bushing is absent so the shifting is like a stick in a bucket. I’ve read post on using door bushings as shifter bushings but I didn’t understand. How do I remove the shifter and do I have to modify the bushing or do I just slip it on and slam it back in. Thought by now I would have had coilovers at least but all my problems have slowed down this project.
here a some recent pictures.
added a front airdam (it was broken)
added metal headlight buckets (other ones were broken)
welded in floorpans
mounted sparco seeat
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Do you know why its not running? Im looking for a good crank and one rod.
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had a rod bearing go out and it destroyed my crank and rod. looking for a crank and rod asap
have e88 and p90 heads, turbo crank, turbo valve covers for possibly trade
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I just got my 74 260 on the road that I bought for $400 and the guy I bought it from could tell me little about it because he never got the time to work on it. After starting to investigate the car I learned the rearend was welded. The tires squeal in parking lots, but it rides smooth even when turning. It gets sideways really easy. If you make a 90 degree turn from a stop sign and it revs past 3 grand or so before u finish the turn it will kick the back in out. In the ran the car is scary and I baby it around every turn, I have been driving it for 3 weeks now and have had it sideways in traffic twice already. I would go as far as to say it was dangerous if you forget you have it or drive somewhat carelessly.
I apologize if there are errors in my post i find it difficult to post from my phone.
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Thanks Rtz.
Why what's wrong with this car? The ride height?
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Ive been getting confused with all the diffrent front airdams for the s30, im found the one im looking for just dont know the name, i was told it was OEM but the broken one i took of my car dosent look like this one. Im looking of a used one if possible.
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I was surfing the net looking for parts and ideas for my s30 and came across this guys car and i loved his style becuase it's pretty much what i had in mind for mine.
Does anyone know if the guy that owns this car is a member of the forum?
Also this is more of a body/ paint question but im so lost with all the diffrent front airdams, but im loving the one on this car. My brother told me that it is the OEM one but i wasnt shure. So what airdam is this?
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did they fit easy, cant wait to see sum pics
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im interested, how much will a heat gun cost me
first time datsun owner ( my new project)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
sold the car last sat. sold everything but the seat for $850.
learned a lot from this car and wont make the same mistakes on my next project.