NagaSadow
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Posts posted by NagaSadow
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The title basically says it all, but I'm looking for the best option for a swap with a LM7 and a 4L60E. I'm looking at this kit from JTR, this engine mount from Dirty Dingo, and this kit from JCI. I'm not really sure which kit is the easiest to work with and the best value. Obviously the mount from Dirty Dingo would need some sort of mounts for the transmission, but it's bolt in and adjustable. Opinions and knowledge would be great.
My car is a '77 280Z, just in case that makes any kind of difference with any kits.
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Few pictures of my 78 with Corbeau FX1 Pro's installed.
I had to section the tunnel on the DS, and clearance with a BFH on the pass side.
I (heavily) modified some 4th gen F body sliders for the drivers seat, to get some adjustability. I played around with it and mounted it with 15* of layback.
A little cozy, but not terrible.
Passengers seat outer brackets. I used some pre-cut brackets from speedwaymotors.com and trimmed them to fit. PN 917-20381
For these, I plated the floor with 1/8" plate, and thru bolted.
For the inners on the pass side I plated the tunnel and used one speedway bracket (rear) and 2 pieces of 1/8" x 2" angle iron (front)
A little tough to see, but I took my e brake handle off, and trimmed the horizontal portion because it would have worn out the seat. I also removed the e brake light switch, but have yet to put the cover back over the tunnel hole.
Finished installing.
Here is how much room there is from the shoulder bolster to door cards. Doors don't hit them at all!
The seats sit directly over the new frame rails I installed, and are possibly a little to the inboard of the car off center in the "tub". Still very comfortable to reach all controls.
Given the size of the FX1 Pro's that you have, do you think the NRG FRP 310's or 300E's might fit in a 1977 280z? Of course with tunnel bashing and whatnot.
For comparison, the FX1's are 23 inches at the shoulder bolsters, and have a 20 inch base. The 310's are 24 inches at the shoulders and 20 inches at the base. The 300E's are 23.25 inches at the shoulders and 21.5 inches at the base. I ask because you said the fit was cozy, and there wasn't much room between the seat and your door, along with the e-brake being snug. Essentially, was there anything you could have done to squeeze out a little more room?
If anyone else has some insight, feel free to share.
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I was reading a lot of threads saying that the Comp Cam's are better than the Schneider's, so I figured I'd ask. Is there a Cam that would be recommended for similar power that they claim? As in power from 2000-6000 RPM.Something's off. The valve lifts are less than stock. Duration's longer for two, but they claim more power and torque with less lift and duration even for the first. How so? Not an expert, take a grain of salt.
The guys that seem to know almost all recommend Iskenderian. A phone call and a discussion, gets a cam profile.
Or you can go with a "Magnum". Awkward.
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Anyone used the 84-119-6 can or know if it will work well with the L28?
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NRG RS-T100-GY-L Type-R Gray Cloth Racing Seat+Adjustable Slider (Left/Driver Side Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0116GNQ0C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yFhOwbRPBFTBF
I have a 1977 280z, would these fit without having to smash the tunnel?
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Yeah, I understand that it won't just be as simple as an intake, headers, and an exhaust. However, I was looking for information about which parts would support 200-300hp and then what I'd have to do beyond that. I listed $2k as the budget, but I should have been more clear about that. What I meant is that if I have $2k right now, which parts would be reccomended to work with now to eventually build up to 220hp.To get anything close to 300hp out of an N/A L6 is going to be quite expensive. Even 220 is something that will require a lot more than just exhaust and intake mods. To begin with you will need to change out engine internals. Switching to flat-top pistons and swapping the head to boost your compression will do a lot, but it sounds like you are mostly interested in bolt-ons right now. Headers/exhaust can give you a little bit, but you won't break into the 200s with just simple exhaust and intake mods. There are not many quick swaps for intake components to begin with (a common one is to upgrade to a 240SX throttle-body) and how much power they give you is widely debated ( some claim 5-10hp, while others claim it doesn't do anything unless other more complicated intake mods are done as well). One major limiting factor in the 280Z intake is the AFM. You can swap out for a bigger TB and port out the intake, but unless you can upgrade to a higher flow AFM or eliminate it all together (which is not a simple swap and requires quite a bit of modification) you are likely to see little or no gains from the other mods.
These motors have proven that they can make well into the 300s, but that normally requires a complete engine overhaul including extensive head work if you want to see that N/A. There are shops like Datsun Spirit and Robelo that build 300+ hp L6s, but to the tune of $6000+ usually.
That being said, even a stock tuned S30 is a lot of fun, and a few small mods can make it a complete blast even while remaining below 200hp. Enjoy
Pillar
It sounds like I'd be better off pulling a cheap L28ET from a junkyard, but in NC we don't have many Datsun's to choose from. So, I will read the two links that you guys provided, then I will come back and edit this with any questions I have.
Okay, so I went and read the first few posts, and it goes into a little more depth but still says what you guys have said. From what I gather, the best way to break into the 200's would be an intake, delete the AFM, go with an EMS like MegaSquirt, upgrade the pistons for a higher CR, and upgrade the exhaust. All of which seems to be doable as individual upgrades until everything is done. The camshaft upgrade seems like it would have to be the last upgrade since the stock computers can't handle larger cams, but I'll have to search some to find out how worth it the upgrade would be.Apparently there's a lot of mythology out there, for all engines really, not just the L6 about what adds power. TB, AFM, CR - all suspect.
BRAAP summarized these and added some fact-based reality in a past post. Not much dissent from his opinions. Worth reading.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/
And all of these threads have value - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/
That's essentially the information I was looking for. I'm sure there is other stuff that would help, but that is a start.
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No restoration involved with that thing, it's cherry... must have been garaged. Whatever you do, if you take stock parts off save them.
I would convert to 240Z fiberglass bumpers, that's a big weight difference and part of the better looks of the 240. That air dam isn't going to work very well with the 280 bumper anyway.
The stock fuel injection is pretty good, you have to do a lot to the engine mechanicals to surpass it. Headers, air intake, mild cam you should be fine.
I would put some 215 to 225-45-R15 tires on it and some different wheels. Those wheels aren't venting the brakes very well.
Ever heard of or used these? http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R1R&partnum=245WR5PR1RV2
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Much more support than stock. Used the old rails from the Z, found some spacers and slotted angle from the hardware store then about an hour later was finished. Wifey enjoyed the seats more and she has a bad back also. I have a set of prelude seats in storage that I haven't used yet also, which provide a bit more comfort and support than the integra supposedly.
Any specific year or model that you pulled yours from?
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I know there's a thread on seats that fit, but how did the Integra's fit and how much support do they offer compared to stock?I found integra seats cheap and in nice condition on Craigslist for 80 bucks. Cleaned them up and installed them on another Z that I sold. I liked them alot. Simple and easy.
Maybe try bleeding the entire brake system first before upgrading. Old or tainted fluid or maybe even air causing your issues.
Within the first week I had to change the passenger side caliper, as it gave no pressure, and I also had the system bled because there were pockets of air preventing braking. But, again, the rotors I have are kinda worn and need to be turned or preferably replaced, so I don't think I'm going to get Wilwoods just yet.
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So, I'm back after owning the car since mid October. After a few weeks, the carpet started to smell, so I pulled it out and it was just junk. So, I pulled the carpet out of the hatch area, and will be pulling the rest of the carpet out so I can start fresh.
After living with the car, I still think the braking system could be a little better. I'm thinking vented rotors (the current ones need to be turned or replaced anyway). I was thinking of getting some braided lines, because it's not a huge amount of money, although the car is just a daily driver for now.
The second issue is definitely the seats, because my girlfriend has back issues and she can't stand the stock seats. So, if anyone knows of comfortable seats that will fit and cost >$300, that'd be great. A non-leather material is preferred, by the way.
So, that's $110 for rotors, possibly $80 for brake lines, $300 for seats, and then the rest will be to get the air conditioning fixed and performance. That being said, I'd like 220-300hp or something reasonable out of the N/A engine. I'm just looking to do it over time with parts that will help each other. What would the best intake, headers, exhaust, etc be for the goal? If there are any factory parts that are restrictive and not necessary, let me know so I can take them off. Keep in mind that I don't have to pass emissions or anything, but the exhaust needs to be under 93 decibels.
Budget is let's say $2k for now, since it'll be over time and can be expanded. Part manufacturers/models would be nice if certain parts are suggested. Thanks for looking.
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I could always remove the bumper if I can't find one for a reasonable price.The stock 280 bumpers give good crash protection, the 240 bumpers do not but they look better and are much lighter. If you wanted to budget you could find some 240 stock metal ones that needed chrome and paint them black or body color.
This link is the Z I'm wanting mine to look like http://imgur.com/a/Y7MRp
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Alright, well I suppose I'll try some new pads first and see how the back brakes are before I decide to replace or convert to rotors and calipers. I was just reading how the brakes were something most people upgraded, and the experience I had wasn't good, so my assumption was that they weren't good overall. Then I read about the brake conversion kits and thought that was only further proof. I didn't mean to sound snobby or anything, it was just an assumption based on build threads and YouTube build logs.
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I was just trying to show that you're making decisions on very little actual knowledge. Like the statement above - the car already has power (booster-assisted) brakes. If you meant "more powerful" there are numerous threads that talk about how the stock brakes work fine and are balanced correctly for the car, when they're in proper working order. And numerous threads talking about how the "upgraded" Toyota brakes, and rear discs, are biased to the front.
You asked for suggestions. I say read more, take everyone's advice with a grain of salt (people inherently defend decisions that they've made. Objectivity is hard), drive the car for a little while, and make decisions based on a clear view of how you want the car to behave.
I've already driven the car a couple of times, and I'm used to cars like a 2000 Mustang with good brakes. What I experienced was very unresponsive brakes that had to be pressed fairly far to stop the car while going 45mph. So, that may not be indicative of how the brakes should be, but I wasn't impressed. I wouldn't be talking about upgrading things that I don't think needed improvement, I am trying to keep under a budget after all.
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I think you're on the right track. And you're way ahead of the game with the condition the car is in.
I don't see a problem with the stock EFI, it's pretty reliable, we've been running the racecar with it and haven't had any problems.
That just saves me money, so thanks for the input. Is there a major difference in MPG, or more of the same meaning that I'd have to do other modifications to notice it?
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"Bigger brakes" in your first post was the clue. You haven't studied enough to know what's what. You're on the bling path. Form over function. All good, just that your plan doesn't fit your stated goal.
Not sure that I agree, but okay. The plan was to do the Toyota brakes and convert the rear brakes to rotors, which I don't see as a blingy option. I would be more inclined to agree if you had cited the strut bars, but I suppose some people don't think along the same lines that I do.
To clarify, the overall goal is to essentially modernize the car with power brakes, new seats, maybe power steering, and get it to the point where it's as comfortable a daily driver as any modern car. I'm still going to keep all of the original parts in case I decide otherwise, and upgrade one thing at a time starting with the suspension to see if I change my mind.
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You should wait until you have the car, and think a lot more about what you want it to be. You just have a list of random things to do, but they don't really fit together to make a better car. Pretty easy to spend a lot of money and just make a Frankenstein monster. Weird-looking and doesn't work well. You can't really upgrade anything until you know what "better" is.
By the way, these are 240Z shocks. Only two of them will work in your 280Z.
http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T4HDY6?tag=viglink20591-20
You want these. If you want stock style.
http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T037EK
I'm not sure what you mean by the Frankenstein monster build. I think it's fairly clear when I stated that it will be a daily driver and I am looking to only mildly increase power. Then I talked about suspension upgrades, and airdam to upgrade the looks, and asked for suggestions to improve the power in an ideal manner.
I origanlly started with a 240z that I found, and they're the same price, which is why I had the link.
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The panasports are nice, Konig makes an affordable copy seen on Ebay. The used hurricanes are dated, painted black might be nice, but that's just personal preference.
Megasquirt is better if the engine is built more than a moderate amount, but for just a mild cam/air intake/headers it's not necessary.
I'm going to paint any rims that I get black, and leave a tiny strip of chrome at the edge, so no worries there.
That's good to know, it just seemed like even daily driver builds were upgrading the fuel injection. At least I won't spend money on useless parts in that case.
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Well, a light "restoration" to the front fender where there's a rust hole, the cracked dash (which is salvageable), and minor trim defects. But, yeah, it's been stored under a car port with a cover on it and driven once or twice a month since the son abandoned it in 1985. And of course I'll keep the stock interior and have it fixed up so that if I ever sell the car I can put it back in.No restoration involved with that thing, it's cherry... must have been garaged. Whatever you do, if you take stock parts off save them.
I would convert to 240Z fiberglass bumpers, that's a big weight difference and part of the better looks of the 240. That air dam isn't going to work very well with the 280 bumper anyway.
The stock fuel injection is pretty good, you have to do a lot to the engine mechanicals to surpass it. Headers, air intake, mild cam you should be fine.
I would put some 215 to 225-45-R15 tires on it and some different wheels. Those wheels aren't venting the brakes very well.
I wonder why most build threads usually skip straight to a megasquirt, if it's not much better. Oh well, I kinda figured a new intake and exhaust system would be one of the first suggestions. Honestly, I was going to go cheap and pick up some of the original Panasport rims or something like this http://www.zcarsource.com/wheel-set-western-15-spoke-wheel-14x5-5-set-of-4-used_8_56836_198441.html
As far as the bumpers go, do you recommend the ones at http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_price_list_page.html or is there a U.S. vendor that's good?
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List of predetermined modifications:
http://www.jpngarage.com/240-260-280Z-Urethane-front-air-dam-X-3125.htm
$215
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20f/23-4201
$240 for front and rear
http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T4HDY6
$155
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I've made a couple of posts regarding a full restoration project, but I think I've found the right car to make my part easier.
Here's a link to an album of the pictures I took while checking the car out http://i.imgur.com/V5DgwQxh.jpg
The car is a 1977 280z, it has been in the owners family since 1977 when he took his son to a Datsun dealership and told him to pick a car. From what he tells me, the same mechanic has worked on it for the last 25 years (will have to verify that) and it's generally in good shape. It runs well, with the original engine sitting at 124k miles. Overall, the only rust I could find was the front fender below the battery. The interior is all original, but it does have aftermarket speakers since the originals blew.
Anyway, the plan is to make a classic daily driver with a little bit of power for the weekends. The first thing I'm going to do is replace the struts, seats, remove the carpet, and make the AC work again. After that, I'll see about putting on new rotors, bigger brakes, a strut brace on both ends of the car, and then work on the engine. Which is where this post comes in. I have no clue what upgrades would be ideal, but I'm thinking of upgrading the fuel injection and maybe the head.
Budget of 13k, the car is about 6-6.5k depending on the negotiations tomorrow.
Suggestions are welcome, and thanks for looking.
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I am one of the vendors for FRP products, we will have the price list pretty soon and yes we do have a big container on its way.
How much to ship an entire kit (including cost of the kit) to the US?
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I'm looking for a 1971-1978 240Z, 260Z or even a 280Z. I'm not looking for a track car or anything ridiculous, just a reliable daily driver that looks nice. My maximum budget is $13k, so if your car can't be made into a reliable daily for that, then unfortunately I'm not the person to buy your car.
I'm located in North Carolina, and my loan is through the state employees credit union, so any vehicle would have to be purchased within my state for my bank to approve the purchase.
Thanks for reading and feel free to link anything that's applicable.
*edited to include the 280Z
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The base car you posted is a 2+2 ZX are you going with that or an S30?
It was really just an example to show the starting points of the two ideas. I'll consider anything from a 240-280z as long as it's before 1980.
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Before someone mentions it, I'm setting aside 2-3k for the swap to be done by a professional if I can't get my fathers friend (a mechanic who owes some favors) to help.
Cheap Kit or Individual Part Options for LS Swap
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Well, to be clear, I'm really not too worried about an exhaust system. I'm probably just going to put some headers on and that's about it. I'll have to look into the differences between the T56 and 4L60E, but if they mount up the same then I have more options.
Also, there seems to be two JCI kits. I found one for $300 I believe on Broken Kitty and one for $600. Wasn't sure what the major differences were, so maybe someone has experience with that enough to inform me. I'm just looking to go as bare bones as I can. I'll worry about the A/C later, but I did take the compressor when I picked up the engine.