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clutchdust

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Posts posted by clutchdust

    Taco'ed my car, haven't been around a while

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Not totally taco'ed, but enough to screw my pooch. :puke:

    I've been so sick about it I haven't even wanted to look at it for the last three months.  I just started pulling things apart to see how bad things really are.

     

    I started a new job back in December and on my very first day I was running some errands after work.  I was waiting to cross a street when this lady gets on the shoulder to turn on the access road where I was coming out.  Just as I decided to pull out she changed her mind and pulled back into the travel lane and smacked me hard on the driver front wheel.  It was a straight on shot.  Literally broke the strut (brand new KYB installed two months earlier) and tweeked the subframe/sheetmetal.  Of course, the fender is toast.  Also tweeked the front bumper, which is disappointing since it was pretty much cherry before all this nonsense.

     

    I just got the fender off yesterday to see what it looked like underneath.  There is a slight buckle in the framerail just about where the rear strut rod pick up is and another slight buckle right at the firewall.  I'm not looking forward to what it's going to take to pull all this out, but I don't think it's bad enough to write off the car.  I'll post up pics later.

    Which distributor to use?

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    So I think I've decided to go with the one on the left (e12-80?). I have a bunch of modules and bits and pieces I don't even know what they go to. Does this distributor use a separate module? Or is this (+) to one side and (-) to the other side and done? Also, what is the distributor on the right? What parts (if any) does it need to work? I will be listing that one on my F/S thread.

    Which distributor to use?

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

     

     

     

    To the OP - if the ZX distributor is in good shape it would probably be the easiest to install. Fewer wires to mess with, just power and coil negative. Then you can measure your advance characteristics while the engine is running, and decide if you need to make any changes. That's another post though.

    Not really. Sounds exactly like what I was asking. Just this once, pretend I don't know jack about Datsun distributors and walk me through which one I should use and what parts are needed.

    Which distributor to use?

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Do you by chance have a link to that thread? I'm still really new to the different ignitions Datsun/Nissan used. In my '72, I just yanked the points and put in a Pertronix and haven't looked back.

    I know either one of these distributors are pretty much the same thing as the Pertronix unit but I have no knowledge to guide me.

    Which distributor to use?

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Please tell me more about the GM ignition, or point me to a thread. I would be interested in that since GM has built literally millions of vehicles that use it so parts should be cheap and available for another lifetime or two.

    I think just for clarity I will pull both of them out today and post a pic.

    Which distributor to use?

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Sorry if this is a dupe, guys. I am trying to put together a carbureted L28 I have two different distributors and no idea how to identify which is which. I can tell you they're both magnetic to some degree, i.e. no points. I saw a thread about one of them, it appears to be a pretty popular choice. It has a plastic black box mounted at about the 11 o'clock position with a two pin connector. The other is similar but does not have any box or anything else mounted on the side. It has two magnets mounted opposite each other inside the housing. There are blue wires that come off the magnets, go through an insulator on the base of the distributor, then two of the wires are spliced and the remaining three wires are braided.

    The only other thing I can tell you is that both engines were FI at one point.

    I hope that's enough info to make an identification. I can't really upload any pics right now but if we can't figure this out, then I'll find some pics somewhere.

    Anyway, if we can determine which is which, what distributor would be best for my carbureted engine?

    Has anyone been pulled over for engine swap?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Holy crap, man! Are you sure the school is worth it? I mean seriously, this is not too far from "papers please!"

    If you just insist on going to KA, would it be an option to leave the car with family/friends for the year or so you'll be there? Just buy some $1000 beater car for the time being and then when you're done, sell it to some other student. That's what we did in Okinawa.

    Has anyone been pulled over for engine swap?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Ahhh, now that's a different story. Going to school out there would be completely different than being there on orders.

    Question: Will you be paying tuition as an out-of-state student? My understanding (and this is very vague) is that you need to live there for at least 6 months to a year to qualify for in-state tuition. If you're attending as an out of state student then I would think you should be exempt from registering the car.

    I'm not the government but in my world, they can't have it both ways. I don't see how they can demand that you register there but not grant you in state tuition. Out-of-state tuition, out of state plates. In state, then you need to do as the Romans do.

    Junkyard score!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Yeah, all these emblems were loose. I don't know where the 510 emblems mount. Think I'm going to do a board in the garage wall with all the various badges. Add in some Corvette, T/A and maybe even a Rustang badge (if I can stand it).

    Junkyard score!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Went to the junk yard yesterday and believe it or not, I found not only an early (1970) 240Z but also a near cherry 510 four door. The Z had pretty well been picked of all the loose stuff but I did stumble across a few emblems squirreled under the passenger's seat. I also got the combo switch, door handles and D/S headlight bucket (perfect steel bucket). I didn't get any parts off the 510 except I found a few badges. All for under $50. Whoohoo!

    100_2164_zps0b97a122.jpg

    Has anyone been pulled over for engine swap?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Why on earth are you even registering it there???

    I was stationed at Pendleton for three years and never registered a car in KA. Granted, they may have changed the laws since then, this was the early 90's, but jeez! If all your vitals are current and you're a PA resident serving on orders in KA, they have no business touching your car.

    Personally I would put a big, honkin' 8-71 blower sticking out the hood, hang my Nevada tags on the back and tell them to pack sand.

    Fuel Pump Wiring

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Interesting you posted this. Being a '71 it should have a mechanical pump like my '72 had. But I too have noticed an unused pigtail back by the tank and wondered if that was actually for an electric pump. I discounted it just because the age of the car and electric pumps just weren't particularly common then. But if that is indeed what that pigtail is for, I will relocate my current Holley red pump to back around the mustache bar.

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