ZMONSTR
-
Posts
24 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by ZMONSTR
-
-
It's is a 5speed from a ZX!
Please educate me some!
-
Pics can be misleading, but it looks like the shift lever is too far forward. Wrong shift lever? installed backwards.
Again..could be the angle of the pic.
This is why I posted.. the shifter and opening for ash tray dont quite line up. I would have to push the center console in..but then I get big misalingment with the lower console meeting the center.
I went with this position becuase the shifter is not hampered, and a new shifter boot should cover. As for the ash tray, I intend to do something else with it.
-
What do you mean? There's a handful of brackets that it screws into, I think most of them are welded to the trans tunnel. Were they removed? If not, just cut an opening in the carpet.
I am trying to limit my cutting into the carpet as I dont want it to be loose or a saggy. Right now its screwed into the carpet and padding and its holding very well actually
-
Always.. your pic is reassuring! I tried in vain to find a pic with google but couldnt.
As for holes, the previous rebuilt covered trans hump with carpet so I had to guess some. I have left the carpet, except for cutting some away for the proper redo of the choke and access to the dip for the ash tray. I do not intend to put an ashtray in the car, but some kind of cup holder
-
Hello,
My car was redone without a center console (not sure why). I have purchased one, put it in and would like thoughts on the alignment. Something is a bit off.
I am attaching all the pics i took just to be safe.
The problem I am seeing is that the shifter and dip in trans well for ash tray is a bit far foward compared to the opening(last pic). I placed the center console based on where i think it should allign with the console above it (1st pic). Its not pushed in very far, and I thought those elements should align. I can push more if I want, but ruins the alignmet of the bottom console with the middle.
Thoughts?
-
I will be getting BC coilovers soon, but would like to keep the same stance I have now. The current setup was achieved almost 10yrs ago with cut springs. I guess my real question is do I want the extra low springs or normal springs?
-
One more question.
The master cylinder is a NABCO 7/8. I roughly measure the brake booster between 8 and 9 inches diameter . Does this mean any 240 or 260 brake booster would be acceptable?
Whats on there is an after market Bendix label, made by Master Vac. Part number is 285186.419240. Google is absolutely no help on this part
-
Brake pedal is very hard to push. When the car is in idle and I push the brake pedal, it cause the idle to drop severly causing a stall or almost stall. There is also a hissing noise down near the brake pedal when its pushed.
Thoughts?
-
I will call monday and see where I went wrong
-
Motorsports Auto.
The Z store comes up, and I have checked there before, and all I find are Urethane, not rubber. Maybe I am not in the correct section?
-
Makes the ride noisier and harsher. Improves at the limit braking. Does nothing to affect normal street braking. Improves handling, again at the limit. Little to no improvement at normal street driving.
Thank you John!
Who carries stock or rubbing bushings for an early 260z?
-
I have been looking at after marking tension control arms, and it looks like they remove the bushings and go with a more rigid setup that is adjustable.
Does this improve the ride, or just the handling?
-
You can check to see if it is bottoming out by removing a front and rear wheel using jack stands, then put a jack under the control arm to achieve the same measurement from the center of the hub to the the fender arch as you had at static ride height with the wheel on and the car on the ground. Then take pictures of the springs so we can see how much travel is left. You won't be able to figure anything out with the shocks extended. We can help you. Wish you could ride in anotherZ to see if you think all Zs are too stiff. If so, my offer stands.
I have been in my fair share of Z's but havent been in a classic Z for 20yrs at least.
I took an hours drive, me driving, in a 370z Nismo.. and that is a stiff ride. The ride in the 260z just feels bumpy, not stiff. I may not be an expert, but I am pretty sure the current setup is designed for looks that than performance and/or feel.
Right now, just a matter of understanding everything about coilovers vs say a Eibach progressive lowering spring and Tokico Illumina strut.
I think that a spring and strut might raise the height of the car from what its currently at, but give me a much better ride. Plus the cost is more palatable.
-
That car will never be right. Get out of it while you still can. I will give you $1500 to take it off your hands.
LOL. Really appreciate your concern and generous offer, but I am determined to make it right and learn something in the process
-
cgsheen sells a kit. He must be modest. Google the "garage" in his sig.
LOL.. I dont mind, heck, I need expert advice and if his kit is as good or better, then I probably will buy just cause of the personalized service.
-
I have 2 lines of thoughts.
1. Something quick and easy to fix the situation.
BUT, if I am likely to have the problem again (bottoming out), or it seems I am half ass'ing it, I would rather do what cgsheen is saying is the better option and the end of his post.
Which leads to thought #2. Cutting, welding, the tubes etc, no big deal for me. This sounds like more what I am going to do, since I have many more options with setups. I am f' with it once/pay more 1st time kinda guy.
So, at looking at the coil over solutions, I find MANY products out there. Some are very expensive. Some not so expensive. And I, being a sucker, am easily swayed by pretty colors and slick advertising.
I am concerned about buying a setup, and not knowing all the parts I need to make a correct setup.
As I understand, in a coil over setup, I am going to to need the coil over setup and camber plates. I keep reading about spacers, rubber cushions/ bumpers etc. What is the list items I need? Is there a known setup that is less track and more daily driver oriented?
Thanks for all the help. I am still reading.
EDIT TO ADD: I just read post #5 here..now making me question my above statements...http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/22616-coilover-conversion.html
-
You're paying the price for lowering the car by doing nothing other than shortening the springs. You've lost shock compression travel to the point where you're bottoming with relatively minor bumps. Some coil over system or strut shortening is the only way to maintain this stance and keep some actual suspension travel. The suspension threads are full of these conversions. Do some reading.
I have done a shit load of reading. But I am having trouble piecing it all together. I think I have seen at least 2 different conversions.. some cutting up parts, some welding parts. The welding and fab dont bother me one bit, its just knowing which parts work with what system and the results achieved.
I am just tying to get a smoother ride, keep the car lowered some, and if I can do that with off the shelf parts without fab awesome!. Which parts?
Otherwise, if I have to fab and weld, I am concerned about getting the right parts for the right process.
-
They are black originally..Cant tell much about the cut. I think I will just replace it all.
Suggestions on springs and shocks? Just a turning car, that sometimes goes fast.
-
The car feels like it has been bottoming out, but no thud or anything. The springs and shocks dont have a name at all, and appear to be old. Maybe original that were cut down? Here are some more pics. Nothing specifically of the shocks..yet..
-
The car feels like it has been bottoming out, but no thud or anything. The springs and shocks dont have a name at all, and appear to be old. Maybe original that were cut down? Here are some more pics. Nothing specifically of the shocks..yet..
-
The redone ones look nice!...But, I dont care if I have original or not. More after comfy seats.
Anybody want to recommend and after market? Maybe one with built in seat belts?
-
Hello,
New to me 260z has a very bumpy ride. I alot of the rubber bushings have been replace with polyurathanes, which seem to be very stiff.
I know the total set up, shocks, springs, bushings and all, have less that 650hrs use on them over 8yrs. (hour meter in car). Resto was done in 2007.
I am looking to make the z drive just a bit smother with less jolts and jars...
Any thoughts on bushings, socks and springs? Currently the car is very low, but dont have any wheel rubbing at all.,
-
I have 2 sets of original seats. The ones is my current 260 are HIGHLY uncomfortable. After a 30min drive, my wifes and I's lower back starts to hurt. There is zero lumbar support.
I cant tell you if the seat were ever comfortable, because this is a new Z to us. Last Z I had was 20+ years ago.. I dont remember
My questions are:
1. Has anybody done the new foam for the seats thing and how did it work out?
2. Is there a recommendation for a seat that has the seatbelts built in? Right now, the angles of the seating make the seats belts very high on the shoulder, rubbing our necks.
Thank you
Ride difference between cut springs and coil overs...
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I have a restored 260z with cut springs. The car bottoms out a fair bit and in general doesnt like bumps in the road. I am attaching a pic to let you see the current stance and cut springs
I have the OK from SWMBO to upgrade a few things to the tune of 3k or so.
So I am looking at coilovers and new seats.
Based on reading here, it doesnt seem to matter what you buy for coilovers..you get about the same thing. My question is are coil overs going to improve the handling of bumps, or at least stop the bottoming out with the same stance?
Thanks