[Can I re-use lash pad when replacing a rocker?]

I found the cam bearings screws totally loose. I could unscrew them by hand. 

 

[Can I re-use lash pad when replacing a rocker?]

Do I have to replace the lash pad for the corresponding rocker if I install a new rocker?

Howard

1974 260z

[Determining paint color?]

My car was repainted a while ago prior to my purchasing it. I've gone through every receipt and cannot locate a color code. The car was some sort of red prior. Internet search narrows it down to Pacific Blue 307 or Blue 226.

 

 

Any suggestions on what color this may be?

 

Howard

1974 260z

[Attaching horn pad to non-oem steering wheel]

Ok thank you

 

Howard

[Attaching horn pad to non-oem steering wheel]

Hi everyone:

 

Am I missing a part of do I need an adapter to attach the horn pad to this steering wheel?

 

Howard

1974 260z

[260z clutch slave cylinder home position?]

Do you know the history of the clutch/throwout collar? It's possible that you have the wrong combination, there are two different pressure plates and two different throwout collars, the wrong combination can cause the clutch to not work properly (as it seems to be in my case). Obviously it's much easier to start by addressing the hydraulic components and their adjustments (well, really just the brake pedal adjustment). If the car was sitting for a loong time it's possible that the hard line for the clutch is either clogged or has a hole in it, but you'd probably see brake fluid leaking if it had a hole and you wouldn't get any fluid at the slave if it was clogged. You say there's no brake fluid in there yet? Why not try bleeding it out? This will tell you a lot more. Also, did you install the copper (or brass, not sure) washer that goes between the soft line and the slave? I failed to do this and had a nice puddle of DOT on my garage floor the day after I bled it.

 

When I took a picture of the cruddy old slave cylinder I noticed the copper washer on the old part. I'll need to install it and bleed. Hopefully I won't need to go inside the housing for t.o. bearing or pp issues. The previous owner kept a detailed notebook so I am currently reviewing that for clutch history.

 

Howard

1974 260

[260z clutch slave cylinder home position?]

Don't forget to consider material relaxation and temperature changes as you try to solve this "problem". You might extend your experiment time out beyond 15 minutes also. See if it levels out or goes to zero.

 

Seriously, it's a good observation, but might not actually be a problem.

This is my first time dealing with a seperate brake and clutch master cylinder. On combined systems I usually pressure check when lines or components are installed. I'll bleed it after work and hopefully I can move on to other issues like the exhaust.

 

Howard

1974 260z

[260z clutch slave cylinder home position?]

 

Here's a picture I took of a working clutch, at rest.  On your leak-down problem - there are two seals in the MC; one to build pressure and one to keep fluid in the reservoir (check a later FSM, like 1978, to see a better diagram).  

 

I don't think that the MC is meant to hold pressure like a brake MC.  It's meant for short time frames.  Could be though that you have a leaky one.  Quality is poor these days.  Did you disassemble and clean it before installing?  Did you check the slave dust boot for fluid?  Leaks will be contained in the boot.

 

 

When I purchased the slave cylinder I took apart and cleaned and rinsed with fresh brake fluid. For the master cylinder I didn't take it apart. I only rinsed it with new fluid. I think I will reinstall the old mc and see if it holds pressure as the rubber seal looks in excellent shape. I will clean it thoroughly.  At least I can determine if the new maser is bad.

 

As far as the slave dust boot no dripping fluid inside just slightly wet but that maybe left over from when I cleaned it. I measured just like in your picture and it's about 55 mm from fork arm to the edge of the bolt. but that is with no fuild in the system yet and I still have to adjust the clutch pedal per the FSM.

 

Howard

1974 260z

[260z clutch slave cylinder home position?]

Did your clutch work before you changed the hydraulic components? Did you keep the master cylinder push rod from your old master? The new masters often come with pushrods that are too short. There are a couple of topics addressing similar poblems that are active currently, and I too am dealing with it (though I believe my problem is the pressure plate/throwout collar combo I'm using). Start by making sure the pedal is adjusted properly(according to the fsm) and go from there.

 

My car sat for quite some time before I bought it. The clutch didn't work and I attempted to bleed it. The brake fliud come out looking terrible. I opened the slave cylinder and that's what I saw inside. I ordered a new slave cylinder and figured I might as well swap out the maser cylinder too (the master cylinder actually looked in good shape).

 

I still have the previous master cylinder and I will open up both the old and new and compare the push rod sizes.

 

Howard

1974 260z

[260z clutch slave cylinder home position?]

Hi everyone:

 

I've replaced the bad clutch slave,master cylinder, and a new rubber hose. I used my Motive pressure bleeder to pump 10psi to make sure it will hold and have no leaks before I filled the system to bleed. I came back fifteen minutes later and I see the Motive dropped by about 2 psi. I checked all connections and even used soapy water to detect leaks and found none.

 

I looked at the slave cylinder and noticed that the lever to the pressure plate is all the way to the left and I can't get it to move. Would I need more pressure than my hand can exert to move the pressure plate, or do I have issues with my clutch installation? I can squeeze the fork lever.

 

What is the home position of the fork lever/slave cylinder push rod?

 

 

 

Howard

1974 260z

[Clutch pedal adjustment to new mc]

Hi everyone,

 

I replaced my clutch master cylinder and i;m in the process of adjusting the pedal per the manual. 

 

"Set the upper surface of the pedal pad 8.9 in or 226mm from the metal surface of the toe-board."

 

If you look at this picture you will see that the caliper (which I set to 226mm) is not touching the pedal pad when the other end is sitting on that metal riser.

 

However if I measure from the firewall as I did in this picture the caliper does line up just about perfectly on the rubber on the pedal. (226mm from firewall to top of pedal).

 

 

What is the proper point that I should be measuring? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

 

Howard

1974 260z

 

 

[WTB 260z or 280z with manual md/dc/va/pa/de]

Hi,

 

If anyone is looking to sell, or knows of someone selling, a manual 260z or 280z in these areas mentioned please let me know. I'm not looking for a major project so a model with extensive rust or needing repainting I would pass. Thank you.

 

Howard

Rockville, MD