Jump to content
HybridZ

MMaxim

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by MMaxim

  1. From Racetronics website:

     

    "The 1999 & up LS1 F-body cars have a pump that is inside a plastic fill-bucket. The fill-bucket is equipped with two inlets on the bottom. The equalization checkvalve is used to fill the bucket when the level of fuel in the tank is greater than in the bucket. The equalization checkvalve does not allow fuel to exit the bucket. The venturi system's inlet is a combination checkvalve and powered suction system. The factory pump supplies pressurized fuel via a small tube which feeds a calibrated jet inside the venturi system. This jet of fuel shoots across the base of the checkvalve inlet thereby creating a suction effect which draws more fuel from the bottom of the tank through the filter sock. This venturi system keeps the bucket full all the time even when the fuel tank is almost empty. A full bucket keeps the pump immersed in fuel regardless of the tank level so that when the tank is low on gas and you are doing some hard cornering or acceleration the pump does not run dry and start aerating (air bubbles) the fuel. This happens as the fuel sloshes from side to side in the tank leaving the center low on fuel. This can cause detonation and possible engine damage. The 99+ F-LS1 cars with plastic tanks have no baffling in them so the bucket is very important. The bucket also allows the car to operate with lower fuel levels in the tank due to its scavenging effect. The fill-bucket improves motor crank-to-run time as the priming time is reduced under most conditions. The return line feeds the pressure regulator on the fuel module which diverts fuel back into the bucket so that the unused fuel also helps keep it full at all times.

     

    With bucket and venturi system in place there is no need to run foam. At least that's what it looks like to me. 

     

     

  2. 45 minutes ago, SH4DY said:

    I'm also running this tank and under hard acceleration with less than 1/2 a tank, there is a ton of fuel movement (gauge will go to empty). And, being a plastic tank, not really much you can do to modify it in terms of baffling. I basically can't run less than 3/8 a tank if I plan on really racing the car. I also cheated the fuel level sending unit to read slightly lower than it is just for some safety. 

    I have yet to try some of the Fuel Safe foam blocks to dampen the movement (had bad experiences with cheaper foams breaking down with race gas), but they should help - just need to stay on top of checking filters for any material breakdowns. 

     

    Just a heads up for others thinking of going this route. 

    I thought that in that particular tank the pump is sitting inside the enclosure that keeps it submerged in fuel during acceleration and cornering. The return line seems to be dumping fuel inside that enclosure, too. And you are right, the fuel level float is outside that and will not be reliable during cornering. 

     

  3. Thanks. 

    That was the first thing I did, but I haven't found a locksmith that would sell me some parts. 2 guys that I spoke with only wanted to rebuild/rekey for about $60 per lock. I have the locks apart and just need some parts, so $60 seems a little excessive when I see wafer kits for other cars being sold for $20-$25.   

  4. Hello, everyone! 

    New 1975 280Z owner. First post, but I have been reading on this forum for years. 

    Couldn't find the exact information I was looking for while searching.

    I need to know how much clearance will I gain with Ground Control coilovers. I would like to run 16x9, 0 offset rims in the front and I am lacking about 20 mm of clearance.  All posts I have read say that coilovers give more clearance without the exact measurement. 

     

    With stock suspension in the car I have 122 mm (4.8 inches) from the wheel mounting surface to the spring perch.  

    Appreciate your input. 

×
×
  • Create New...