wingnutooa

well it wasnt the ignition switch. it decided to fool me and run for a couple days before doing the exact same thing. this time i was almost an hour from home. i'm done messing around with it. i'm gutting the entire interior and buying a new wiring harness and possibly a new computer or ECM or ECU or whatever they're called. i'll just do carpet and new doorpanels/seat covers at the same time. then all i'll need is paint. sweetness.... but right now i've got to fix a truck i just bought... 95 6.2 diesel. runs like a champ but supposedly has a blown head gasket. 3/4 ton 4x4. 1,100 bucks WHOOO. so the datsun is after that.

its purely cosmetic. the car wont be going much over the speed limit and probably wont see any track time. atleast not in the state i'm going to have it. i've had enough trouble with johnny law.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7RSW/50-1527 i kind of like this BRE fiberglass spoiler. its 149$ i'll check those other pages to see if they've got it cheaper. but of the ones i've seen its my favorite style EDIT: Question: where does this go? or is it just part of a Key Fob that fell apart....

It WAS the ignition switch. so i got lucky there. i'm not really sure why the heater fan blew another fuse, I checked the wires, put a new fuse in, and its been doing fine since. Maybe I just had a bad fuse.

i'm still interested in peoples views/feedback on spoilers, dont really know what to get. And I just picked up a rear window with continuity in the defrost circuit and i need a rear seal. where would i go to order one of those?

got lucky. it was the ignition switch. local parts store 22 bucks. works like a charm. anybody have suggestions for a spoiler and where to get one?

I think I'll try the soda blasting route first. Give me time to work on the rest of the car. It broke down again last night and its the same problem I was having before. Its like I never even took the thing apart. What a waste of time.

yeah she's been hoofin' it for over a month waiting for me to get the car back on the road. GOOD NEWS! not only did the heat quit but the car still intermittently dies randomly... so its like i never took the car apart. its parked at the 76 station where i had to leave it last night being night time though it gave me some insight on where to look. before i thought ALL electronics were cutting out. well the hazards still worked and the park/ headlights still worked. that means the power thats being cut is my switched power i'm going to start at the back of the ignition switch.

sweet thanks. i think there's a local soda blasting place thats fairly cheap

lol hey wing. what happened to the fury? and dont fret. i didnt ditch domestics and i have equipment to powder coat the wheels myself i just need the old finish off without harming the bare wheel. and now: i'm looking at getting a spoiler. i dont want a huge ricy spoiler just a tastful little one. maybe a fairlady style? any suggestions.

Does Soda blasting etch the metal like bead blasting would? i want it to have the machine lines around the rim still like they would brand new. and i'm sure i could get the overspray off....but i like the black. here's a shot with the stocker ARE Vectors and a shot with the panasports. i got both sets of wheels and tires with the car. the car currently has a black hood with the blue vents and an emblem now.. the girlfriend bent the other hood during an ice storm....DOH! and all the emblems and trim peices and battery covers are in place now too. here's a shot of the hood.

okay so last night i found the problem the little plastic plug on the harness side of the fan connector has two spades. like this [|-] the sideways one must have gotten warm enough to melt the plastic a little and it slid over into the other one. i noticed after i started examining the harness better and the one i was getting 12 volts from that is supposed to be ground, doesnt go anywhere. like power from a mystical battery. so then i started looking at the plug more and noticed they were touching. i think it just shorted again this morning though because my girly just called and said the heat quit again. i'm just going to take that plastic plug out of the loop.

OKA...okay so its not the motor. i unplugged it and it still blows fuses. i unplugged the resistor and it does NOT blow fuses. so i pulled the resistor out of the blower motor housing. the smallest coil had some rusty gunk connecting the coils so i cleaned it up... to no avail. next i started checking for power. okay so both of the wires that plug into the fan have 12V to them. after i ran out of options checking for power and cussing my wiring schematic because its not 100% right, i started looking for ground there's a big black wire going to the back of the switch. i'm assuming ground. its got continuity atleast. when i switch the fan switch the continuity from the black wire moves from lead to lead on the back of the switch. so here's my assumption the fan has 12V going to it through both wires. when you turn the fan on, it lessens voltage to one of the wires creating an imbalance and a current. the greater the imbalance the higher the current and the faster the fan goes. and this still does not solve my problem. when i unplug the resistor it does not blow fuses i'm assuming because the circuit is open. when i plug it in it closes the circuit and alows power to flow to the "short" how can i find this short. has anyone ever worked on the heater or switch and where am i supposed to have power and where am i supposed to have ground.

i got my Z from a buddy and he has a set of 15X8 panasports on there. they WERE silver in color but he painted the car with them on there so now some of them are bluish silver with a little caked on brake dust color. i would like to get them to bare alluminum without harming the metal and powder coat the inside of the wheel black and then clear coat the whole thing. do these wheels come powder coated or is it a base coat/clear coat finish? and what would be the best way of removing it.

yes i'm referring to the motor itself. the rear defogg is on a seperate circuit, although it also is a 20A. the motor spins freely and when i hook it up to 12 volts it goes without problems. going to try and test how many amps it draws while running.