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in Parts for Sale
Posted July 9, 2019
in Parts Wanted
Posted July 11, 2014
I have a pair of rear 240Z ones without gland nuts...
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted July 20, 2007
I will be down at either Hurlburt or Destin via the Sherpa express at the end of August. If there's any Z happenings going on, I'd be interested in looking at some cars or whatever.
in Non Tech Board
Posted June 9, 2005
I work as a civilian A&P/ Avionics Tech on the C-23 Sherpa for the Texas Army National Guard. The unit I am working for just returned from a year in Iraq last February.
I have heard stories from the guys about their tour and I appreciate what our servicemen are doing. Our unit could possibly rotate back over in a couple years or sooner, so at some point I might be over there myself.
I really enjoy working with the people in this unit and it is hard to imagine a better place to work. My hat is off to all the rest of the people serving and who have served in our armed forces and I am proud to be a part of this unit.
God bless America!
C-23 FSR, Det2, Co H, 171st Avn
75 280Z wanna-be auto-x car
Posted August 30, 2003
Southeast Houston here....
Posted July 10, 2003
OK. I figured someone ran into the knock sensor problem. Relocating them to the setback plates seems like it may keep 'em out of trouble.
As far as cutting the tunnel goes, it ain't a big deal. Weld it up....and go on. The hammers I had over there (my car is in my grandfather's garage as I do not have a garage presently) were not big enough to convince the tunnel to get outta the 4L60E's way. The tunnel will be a little roomier without encroaching on passenger space.
Yeah, those TTC block huggers are REALLY tight. I'm happy with 'em though....very nice pieces for the price!
Once again.....thanks for the replies.
I finally got my LT1 bolted to the engine perches. The reason for all my trouble was the 4L60E hitting the trans tunnel on the passenger side. After hammering and pulling the engine out, etc, and still having issues, I did a barbaric deed and cut the trans tunnel on that side. Problems solved.
Anyhow, the engine sits pretty good now and tomorrow I'll see about getting the trans crossmember mounted and repairing the damage I did to the trans tunnel. Plenty of clearance now.
Problem #2. I bought the block hugger headers for the LT1 from Thermal Tech coatings in VA bacause of you guys. They arrived earlier this week and look great. I'm very happy with what I got. After attempting to install them, it looks like the collector makes contact with the knock sensor on the driver's side and it definitely hits on the passenger side. Before I try to reinvent the wheel and try to move these somewhere else, has anyone else already dealt with this?
Also, I am running the engine oil cooler on my LT1 as it was from a cop car. The rack and pinion is out of the car right now, but it looks like it and the steering shaft are gonna hit. Anyone out there have any problems using this setup?
I also bought the Griffin 24x19 radiator from Summit. I tried to source a radiator from the parts stores here, but after dealing with the extinct Camaro radiator and having the price go up as I explored other units, I soon got into the neighborhood of the Griffin unit price-wise and thought why not?
That's all for now and thanks for all your help so far. Hopefully it will run soon!
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted July 5, 2003
I have tried to find some wiring diagrams for a 1994 Caprice with the LT1. I'm using the engine and trans in my 1978 280Z.
BTW, I posted a couple weeks ago about the exhaust and asked which way to go as far as the wiring harness is concerned.
Thanks to all the replies and I went with the coated D-port headers that everyone recommended. They should be here on Monday.
I have decided to wire the engine and transmission myself and have found someone who will reprogram my PCM. The main hurdle is good information. At the book store last night, I found a Chilton Camaro manual that covered the LT1 cars and it had pretty good wiring diagrams that had the color code as well as all the pin locations for each wire. It showed the PCM as having 4 plugs and was exactly what I need for the Caprice. I went in search of this book for the Caprice and they do not make one for the 94-96 models. However, Haynes makes a manual that I borrowed from a friend and the diagram shows the PCM as one plug and only gives colors. The diagram is crap. I spent a lot of time doing some reseach on the net and have not found anything, other than pin A13 of the PCM is a tach output wire!!! I have been looking on Ebay for a factory manual or anything that will work. I need this info ASAP and if anyone out there has it and is willing to help, please drop me an email. If I can get a good schematic, I can do the rest.
Jake 78 lt1280Z <---hopefully soon
Posted June 22, 2003
I am putting the engine and trans from my wrecked '94 LT1 Caprice into my '78 280Z. I have the JTR manual and all the parts and have been lurking here on this board for a long time. I appreciate all the help that I have had from reading posts on this forum. I am to the point of buying headers and I know the LT-1 has D-port exhausts. The block hugger headers are round port. I read 80LT1's post about blowing out a stock header gasket. I am wondering what those of you running LT-1's are doing for headers and exhaust. I have no problem with using a set of the block hugger style headers if they'll work. There are D-port style shorty headers at a much higher cost, but I'm wondering what else will work.
Also, does everyone use the Street & Performance / Painless Wiring LT1 swap harnesses or have any of you modified a stock harness and used that? JTR makes a TPI swap manual and I wonder how much help this book is before I lay down the green. There are people who will modify the harness for a fee, but I wonder if any of you have tackled this part of the project yourself and how did it turn out?
I have the rest of the project under control, but the wiring issue is my biggest concern.