Livin9it2up1
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Posts posted by Livin9it2up1
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I have seen a good amount of cars on the dyno 3 ft away and strap down dyno myself some pretty decent hp rwd vehicles. I know it toss and wants to turn per shift and wot. Just very curious on how much force and stress the mounts itself is actually taking being said the inline 6 is a pretty balanced motor. But I get the picture. The factory mount is not a straight bolt through the rubber instead it is two bolt/stud design molded into the rubber for better cushion so the rubber itself, cushions the pull on wot or first response. Meaning with a straight bolt through a plain rubber mount like some have used or like above, it will definitely pull and put most of the stress on the fabricated mounts itself on full boost or WOT since the cushion is no longer there. I hope this makes sense because I can't find the exact words to explain it.
#1. Think about it like this. two individual bolts, one bolt glued to the other by the rubber(middle section), when pulled on 1st bolt, the rubber absorbs the pull so 2nd bolt wont take a direct yank.
#2. Now with a straight through bolt(single), with rubber in the middle surrounding bolt, your fab mount takes a direct yank when engine jumps because your engine brackets are bolted directly to your fabricated mounts that are welded to the frame. Chances are your frame is not going to bend first, but your fabricated mount will if they are not strong enough.
I'm in your boat though Livin9it2up1. I agree that it is a budget build and it's all an experience. I don't see a problem with it being n/a and just cruising around, however stomping on it with boost in future is a bit risky. I shouldn't even be talking since mine is not even running yet. lol here's what mine ended up looking like after being chewed up by plenty on here.
By the way, the markings on the cross member and steering rack in the center of the first pic is where the center of the original crank bolt is lined up. It is however offset towards passenger between 5/8" and 3/4" inch and that's the location of the 2jz crank bolt. Everyone has different point of views on the Z chassis. Some say the way you have it, it will flex the frame. Others say, no it wont because it is only about 5-7 inches away from the factory cross member which ties them together for strength which does kinda make sense too. IMO, you better be laying down some hardcore HP's because every car I heard twisting frames lays down high HP's. I'm really curious is there even a thread regarding a Datsun Z with twisted front fame rails besides failing due to rust issues?
Every word what you said made perfect sense to me, i love the way your mounts came out, i have reconsidered my mounts and have defiantly decided to reinforce them quite a bit, I am not worried about twisting the frame due to the fact that my original cross member is only 8 or less inches away, I am trying to decide what approach I am going to take to reinforcing them. I made sure to get the "#2. Now with a straight through bolt(single), with rubber in the middle surrounding bolt" mounts due to the fact of iv seen many of the glued type rip apart from hard launching and that just seems id be asking for mount failure trying to use mounts like that.
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i still have mine off a 82zxt if you still need one pm me if so ill let it go for 50 shipped
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Have you ever revved an engine with the hood open and seen the engine twist one way? Imagine how much more twisting force there is when more than the engine's own weight (including the clutch and flywheel) resisting the increase in engine speed. I think the tranny mount does very little to resist the twisting.
I do agree with you i think the engine mounts are the what keeps the engine from twisting, so they would see most of the torque, aside from the rear end.
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Another thing to think about is that the Straight six is a pretty well balanced motor compared to a V8 and the mounts should be just fine when idling/normal driving. During a hard launch is a different story though the power is delivered out the back of the car but the engine and drivetrain do twist during a hard launch just watch a video of a drag race where you can see the engine, the engines move a lot and some guys with high HP numbers twist the frame of the entire car. Just think of Newtons third law of motion for every reaction there is an equal and opposite reaction, When the internals of the engine spin they are going to cause the engine itself to turn in the opposite direction, Like standing on a platform that spins and trying to swing a bat, You will spin in the opposite direction that you swing.
You may not have problems if you use rubber mounts and they are as solid as you suggest but if your going for a solid mount, it might not stand up to the forces it has to endure over time. I love what your doing though, I plan on just going NA 2jz or 1.5jz (1jz block with 2jz head) down the road, I can't wait to see how your Z turns out and I hope everything holds together for you as well.
Thankyou
i appreciate the science lesson as well! i havent seen that stuff in years. I am using rubber insulators that i pick out of a NAPA catalog and they seem to be working great! So the engine itself has some cushion, I have driven the car already and it feels really smooth and quite quick even being N/A -
I was also shocked when I saw how hybridmotorsports(above yellow pic) did their motor mount. I was a bit concern about it failing on them but then when I really think about it, all the power is delivered out the back, not the sides of the engine, since the side mounts just holds it from rocking side to side. I would think the rear end and the tranny mount will take most of the beating. But I went ahead and over killed my mount anyways.
Thankyou! finally someone who has some faith. Hybridmorotsports bought the car with a 2jz already installed and he basically redid the entire swap along with most of the car. I have personally ridden in that car and it is extremely fast, and felt very smooth.
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If your engine mounts give up, you're going to regret it. Do it right or don't do it at all.
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Yeah i know! im not expecting them to break or ever come off the car for that matter, they are really as solid as solid gets.
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That was my concern, and the reason behind my question. Heating and bending metal can leave residual stresses, and cause the metal to become brittle... The boxing in will add strength, but i would worry about those points for fatigue...
less heat more bending, my torch ran out before i even got anywhere with it thats why i said some heat ha. but i guess thats good to know! i guess running out of gas was a good thing!
You all are probably gonna find alot of flaws in this project. There is Probably going to be things that your not going to like. Please remember this car was built on a pretty low budget and im doing what i can with my resources and funds available. I'm not going to be shocked if things break later on, or stuff starts wearing out. This car is strictly a project that i hope one day in the future that i could get back on the road.
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I based the idea off of a friends cars mounts, it has a 2jzgte in it and i believe last dyno resulted in close to 600 HP
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You measured it right in the center of the frame rails for the crank bolt? It's actually offset a bit to the passenger side about 3/4" inches if I recall.
yeah thats what it seamed like i had to offset it anyways just a little bit to clear steering components...
In your first picture, is that a piece of flat steel bar bent into a U, then welded to the frame? You said you boxed it afterwards? If so, how'd you make that bend?
yeah basically.. i bent it with a lot of force and some heat
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Sweet, dude! Would love to see how you did the mounts and know your method to align everything.
As to my method of aligning everything i just hung the engine in the bay and fine tuned the angle and alignment with jacks until i got it right. I measured from the bolt for the crank pulley to the rails to get it centered in the engine bay.
At first i was going to go with the beta Motorsports kit but i decided against it due to the cost of it. So i went with the idea of fabbing up my own mounts. i had 2 options, first being make a cross member and building mounts off of that, second being coming right off the frame rail in the engine bay. For the sheer cost of things and simplicity i went with coming off the Frame Rails. I can only find picture of them before i boxed them in, but the show the gist of how i made them. By the way i made them out of 11 gauge cold rolled steel.
I went down to my local Napa and went through there catalogs till i could find a rubber mount that fit my needs, needs being as skinny as possible to save room. They Rubber mount is literally 2 millimeters away from the steering shaft.
did you use the beta motorsport mount kit?
I didnt use the Beta motorsports kit
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Goinna boost it?
Yessir! eventually when the money is their
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Thanks guys! it was pretty easy to make the ffim i went to my local metal supplier and bought a piece of sheet metal i believe it was 4ft x 5ft 11 gauge sheet and just went too town on it. took about 2 days i would say a total of 6 hour to complete. it runs great now! i just need an exhaust to complete!
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This project stared back in march after i melted Cyl 4 in my l28et from a clogged injector. after talking to a friend who owns a shop for a couple of hours i came to the conclusion that i was gonna do a 2jzge from an sc300 built up, i was eventually going to Na-t it. I'm not looking for big numbers probably around 350 400 HP. I have been taking pictures the Entire way but haven't had the time or patiences to post them up on here. please dont make fun of my stuff, i know some of it probably doesn't look good but i spent a lot of time getting it all right. Thankyou guys for the positive comments but please keep the negative ones to yourself. (unless its something that i overlooked that could probably help me)
The day i got the motor
Head removed for cleaning and Complete check
Block Painted and halfway assembled
EGR Block off plate
Mounted in the car, i know its a little crooked there is not a tranny mount at this point.
Custom intake manifold
Wiring fun
love that intercooler too bad i had to trade if for a new ecu
wiring complete
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looks really good! your on the right track by repairing rust and damage first then doing your swap! i went wrong there! Have you decided what motor your going for?
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I got one from a 1982 280zxt that i used on my swap that i blew up back in march but it worked flawlessly. asking 65 shipped
I still have the Turbo Oil pump and oil pump drive shaft as well if you are gonna do the turbo distributor.
if you interested please call me at 7276565019
or email me at Livin9it2up1@aol.com
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I got it working finally! I just used the stock 280z alternator plug and wired the 2 wires from that directly to the alternator plug, and the last wire, i believe black and yellow runs into on of the plugs by the ECU and i wired that to switched ignition power. Started er up and ran 14.15 volts right off the bat. Thanks for the help everyone!
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yes sir other then your LARGE power/ground wires of course
well ill have to give that a try!
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If you have a oval 3 wire plug on the side..the middle wire goes to the bat...its the "charge" wire.
And thats the only wire i need?
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Iv done it! iv successfully swapped a 2jzge from a 93 sc300 into my 280z, i have it running perfectly with the factory 2jz engine harness and computer, now the issue.. i cannot for the life of me figure out the wiring for the alternater. any help that can be given would be really appreciated, thank you in advanced!
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i got one from a 1982 280zxt if thats what your looking for.
i want 50 + shipping
if interested feel free to email me at Livin9it2up1@aol.com
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If nothing else answers you problem. Did it blow in the identical spot? stupid answer but have you checked for warpage or a crack in your head in that spot?
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That is a booger worm casting that swallowed too much cast iron during the time the fire demons were most active in the cast iron process. The booger worms come out of their depths and wiggle their way into scrap cast iron heaps to mate and breed. Some get transported to the kilns where they meet a fiery death. There is a small movement in Japan to save and place this species on an endangered list but the Bush Administration is blocking these attempts citing that all scap metal export to the far east would come to a standstill if the rare worm was in protected status..........Mythology places the introduction of the worms by alien spacecraft 5 billion years ago .
ahha thats an awesome theory!
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guess not.
i appreciate the science lesson as well! i havent seen that stuff in years. I am using rubber insulators that i pick out of a NAPA catalog and they seem to be working great! So the engine itself has some cushion, I have driven the car already and it feels really smooth and quite quick even being N/A
My 2jzge Build
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
agreed