LS3Z
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Posts posted by LS3Z
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Nice buy!
Whats the tire size? They look nice and meaty from the side, good profile
They are 225/50/15 rear and 205/55/15 front. Nexen Nfera SUR4. Very sticky tire. Hooks up great and corners great for your around town shenanigans. I just looked up more info about the tire. Seems that they are only made in a 225/45 for the 15 inch wheel now. Great.
I'm going to Panama City on vacation in August- maybe meet you and take me for a ride?!
I probably won't ever do a LS1 conversion , but would love to feel 500 hp in a Z.
Congrats
Let me know when you're in town and I'll take you for a spin, not literally I hope.
. Panama City, August, No AC, small windows.....bring an extra shirt! -
That's it? 150 views and no other offerings, thoughts, or opinions? C'mon guys and gals.....
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This is probably not your problem but Id start with your mustache bar bushings they look shot from the pics!! Id replace those. But accel vibrations could be allot of issues from transmission all the way to axles. Good luck
You are right, they look a little chewed. They look particularly bad with the diff supporting the weight of the car as shown in the pics. I agree that they should be freshened up.
Are you assuming that the driveshaft was cut and balanced correctly?
I ask because I had a similar vibration and it turned out that the driveshaft shop welded the driveshaft off axis after they shortened it.
Suggestion: Pull the shaft and take it too a quality driveshaft shop and have it checked out.
Driveshaft is brand new from Driveshaft Shop Specialists. I would assume that the rumble would always be present if something were welded off axis, but it is always worth taking a look to verify. I'll check the run out.
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If anyone can tell me how I can get my hands on this air dam, I would be eternally grateful. My favorite that I have seen thus far. Judging by the super safe and proudly worn jumpsuits and PPE, I am guessing that this picture was taken in Japan.
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I am searching to understand what options we currently have for the front air dam for our S30 cars. When searching through older posts on this topic, many reference vendors that have closed shop, pictures no longer shown, offering no longer offered, etc. There are also several vendors that have had less than stellar reviews about fitment, quality, and business morals. Below is a list of what I have found. Lets bring all of our collaborative knowledge together and create a single point source for all offerings in the market in mid-2017!
Thanks to 19762802+2 for some initial information about MSA from 2009
Please list:
1) Spoiler type:
2) Year:
3) Material:
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor:
5) Price:
6) Link:
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Air Dam Non Ducted
2) Year: 1970-8/1974 Z
3) Material:
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA
5) Price:
6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1401
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Ducted
2) Year: 1970-8/1974 Z
3) Material: Fiberglass OR Urethane
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA
5) Price:
6) Link: Fiberglass: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1402
Urethane: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1411
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Air dam Non ducted
2) Year: 8/1974-1978
3) Material: Fiberglass
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA
5) Price:
6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1403
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Air dam Ducted
2) Year: 8/1974-1978
3) Material: Fiberglass OR Urethane
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor:
5) Price:
6) Link: Fiberglass: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1404
Urethane: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1412
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Type 2 Air dam Ducted
2) Year: 1970-1978 Z
3) Material: Fiberglass
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA
5) Price:
6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1409
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Type 3 Air dam Non Ducted
2) Year: 1970-1978 Z
3) Material: Fiberglass
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA
5) Price:
6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1439
7) Pictures:
*Also comes with Grille Option*
1) Spoiler type: BRE style Air dam Non Ducted
2) Year: 1970-8/1974
3) Material: Fiberglass OR Carbon Fiber
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA
5) Price:
6) Link: Fiberglass:
http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1521
https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/bre-type-spook-front-air-dam-fiberglass-datsun-240z-260z/
Carbon Fiber: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1523
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: BRE style Air dam Ducted
2) Year: 1970-8/1974
3) Material: Fiberglass OR Carbon Fiber
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA, Whitehead
5) Price:
6) Link: Fiberglass:
http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1522
Carbon Fiber: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1524
7) Pictures:
1) Spoiler type: Kaminari
2) Year: 70-74
3) Material: FRP
4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: Kaminari
5) Price: $395
6) Link: http://www.kaminari.com/nissan-240z-260z-air-dam-frp
7) Pictures:
Sarona Air Dam
FRP
$275
OK, so those are the different types of air dams that i have been able to find. With that said, it seems that the Type 1 Ducted is the most popular as there are several different suppliers of them. There are others that seem very similar to the type 1, but have subtle variations.
Star Road
FRP
$900!!
Ztrix - Have heard good things about this company
FRP
$380
https://www.ztrix.com/miscellaneous/type-1-style-airdam.html
Retro Spec - Have heard mixed reviews about quality and fitment
$199 FRP, $399 CF
http://retrospec-datsun.blogspot.com/2013/05/retro-spec-240z-260z-air-dam.html?m=1
https://www.facebook.com/Retro-spec-164254480421705/
Xenon 3124 - 240/260
Xenon 3125 - 260/280
$150-$200 Everywhere
Urethane
DatsunZfiberglass - Heard this guy is to be avoided at all cost. Not sure if anyone has ever actually received parts
FRP
$150
https://datsunzfiberglass.wordpress.com/tag/datsun-280z-front-spoiler/page/2/
What else am I missing here? Are there any other front air dams available on the market in the US??
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Nice time capsule you found there. Take some more shots once you get that 20 years of dust washed off. Amazing how the dust has not been disturbed at all. Hopefully she comes back to life relatively easy for you.
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Don't mean to be a downer but if you still have a rubber diff mount in the back, after the PO installed 500 horses, there might be a lot more lacking back there. Kind of sounding like it might be a build budget depletion sale from the PO. Good luck and read some of the SUNNY Z and RebekahsZ threads, among many others, on breaking things and how they fixed them. You might still have the original open diff.
Thanks as always for the leads on building the rear end. It is all stock, albeit in excellent condition. I believe it does have the original open diff (when on a lift, wheels spin opposite directions when in gear, only one wheel spins when not in gear). How it lays 2 black tracks all through 2nd gear while remaining mostly hooked up is a mystery to me. I have yet to see any one wheel wonder shenanigans. I dont have any plans on racing the car. Its just a means of getting my adrenaline fix on a daily basis and filling the small voids between a 3 month old, a 3 year old, wife, and work. Building cars and wrenching in the garage has been a passion of mine since I was a kid. I'll take it easy, or as easy as possible while going WOT, on this rear end and will upgrade to something more stout when I have time and $$, or when the original breaks on me. Hopefully later than sooner as I am REALLY enjoying the performance as-is currently. No clutch dumps, banging gears, or hard launches till then. The seller was very up front with me. He is one of those car nuts with too much time AND money. Has built many Zs in the past 30 years and knows them inside and out. He pulled the entire drivetrain from his, at the time, brand new 2015 Chevy SS with 1000 miles on it and installed it into the Z. Built a 1000HP race engine to put into the SS. Eventually blew his race engine and needed some $$ to build another race engine. He decided to keep his SS grocery getter/track car,the wife's manual SS, the Porsche Cayenne, the diesel Chevy 3500 with enclosed car hauler, and the crazy nice international motorhome, so he sold me the Z. Considering what he spent on the car originally and what he has put in to it since, it would have cost me around $35k to build it myself. He was eager for a quick cash sale to the right buyer so he took a large hit and accepted my initial offer. I have had a smile on my face ever since!
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Wow nice. Buy some stock in Discount tires!
Thanks, Hah, Excellent Idea! I am glad that they are reasonably cheap tires!
Nice Job! You need more tire!
Thanks, Agreed, but I should probably do some rear upgrades first. Right now, I consider them "torque limiters" or "axle savers"
I am actually amazed at how well they hook up. 1st gear is useless, 2nd depends on the asphalt condition, but usually breaks loose towards the top of 2nd (75MPH), but still pulls VERY strong.Nice numbers I have to ask what colour is that I was leaning to a brown but all my friends talked me out of it. Looks gorgeous with the tan interior!
Thanks, The paint is called "Anthracite" from the 1993 Toyota Supra. It is a nice color and does go well with the cream interior. It definitely fits the era of the car and keeps the classic look. It probably wouldn't have been my 1st pick, but it is still nice.
very nicely done car. Can we see some more detailed pics?
Thanks, I do need to get some decent pictures together. Next time I wash it, I'll get my nice camera and take some good shots.
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Hi Hybridz. After waiting patiently for months on end for the right 240/260/280 to pop up for sale, I recently picked up this beast of a 280 with a 2015 LS3 setup. She still has quite a few things to finish up, but most of the hard work is already done.. One item that had yet to be completed was engine tuning after cam/Springs/trunions/headers/etc. what better way to introduce myself than with dyno charts, pics, and video! Got the LS3 dialed in today at a local shop called Pure Fabrication here in Panama City. Top notch team and facility. I had no idea what a cam and some bolt ons can do for the LS3! Going into this, I told myself I'd be happy with anything around or over 450 WHP. Boy am I a happy camper now!!
502.9 WHP
481.6 WTQ
YouTube vid
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ispXDAAid4Y
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What type of half shafts/axles are you running? What has been done suspension wise? The reason I ask is I had vibration issues with my 260Z during acceleration only for several years on both the stock suspension, lowering springs, and coilovers. I swapped the differential from the stock R180 to a R200 along with shortening the driver half shaft and still had the vibration on accel only. It wasn't until I converted to CV axles that the vibration went away. I blame it on the half shafts being imbalanced/bad u-joint angles. It only was happening during acceleration because the rear of the car was squatting enough to change the halfshaft angles.
That might be something worth checking out.
Thank you for this first hand account. I had also been considering this as a possible cause of the vibration. The car has Eibach springs and Tokico struts. The back end does squat notably under hard acceleration and I would say that the magnitude of the rumble is linear with the amount of squat. I dont really get on it in 1st, but the rumble is most pronounced in 2nd, less in 3rd, less in 4th, etc. Definitely torque or squat related.
The RTz design can be modified if your angles are off. Holes can be slotted, the GM mount can be ground. You're right though, if it's good at cruise and decel now and you change the angle, you might create a new problem. The best way to go is to measure and make it right.
Hoke probably considered angles when he designed his mount. You might send him a message and ask what diff angle he designed for. Apparently he monitors his Facebook page most closely so that's probably the quickest route.
Thank you for the, once again, very valuable information.
Before I go throwing parts at this, I'd like to mount a gopro camera under there to measure the actual deflection. If the diff nose is not pitching up, no point in chasing front diff mounts.
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Here's a good start - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58895-what-is-the-deal-with-solid-diff-mounts/
There are other descriptive threads out there, including one by Ron Tyler, explaining why he made the modified diff mount. His moniker here is RTz.
Use Google and "site:hybridz.org" in the search box along with your search words to search the forum, the site's search function is very poor. It won't even use the three letters RTz so you can't search for Ron's post. And he's a moderator.
Thanks for the tips. Lots and lots of reading to do. The RT mount looks to be exactly what I need and a fair price from technoversions. Reading about the RT mount, it seems that it lowers the nose of the diff considerably which some say is good for V8 Swaps.
My question now is if I have no vibrations when cruising/decel....will lowering the nose of the diff induce vibrations? How far does the RT mount lower the nose of the diff? Guess I need to get under the car and measure all my angles.
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Sorry for the late response, had family in town all weekend so no time for wrenching or researching
That's a logical point. Misalignment only during acceleration.
Not a lot else to go on. Assuming an LS3 due to forum name choice. And " Brand new driveshaft shop driveshaft and Hoke engine/trans mounts". Not even really clear what the Hoke parts are.
http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/
Hoke takes your cross member and welds in everything needed for the engine install. They then powder coat it and send it back to you. They also provide the engine/trans mounts. A very robust engine installation solution that is 100% bolt in.
Car/engine specs are in my signature
What does your differential mount look like? With the torque that LS is putting out, I wonder if it's moving the nose of the diff enough to misalign your driveshaft and that's where your noise is coming from. I know a lot of people switch to the Ron Tyler style mount to cope with the added torque.
All of the diff mounts look stock. I have been thinking the same thing as you with misalignment. I was curious if this is typical for the application and what the best bang for the buck would be to remedy the situation. I haven't heard of the Ron Tyler mount. Thanks for the tip. I'll start researching it. The front diff mount looks fine, the mustache bar inserts look a bit chewed up. The flex in the mustache bar mounts become obvious when lifting the car by the diff as shown in the pics. It would seem logical that firming up the mounts will fix the rumble that we are talking about if the mounts are allowing the nose of the diff to pitch up.
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Just picked up a well built beast of a 280Z. New to Zs, new to LS engines so I am learning a lot. I have been scouring this forum for weeks now. The car I got is well built using quality parts and deep pockets. One of the first things I noticed while accelerating, other than the insane acceleration, is a vibration equal to the frequency of the driveshaft. It is not terrible, but it is an easily noticed rumble. It is only there while accelerating, not deceleration, not cruise at any speed. Brand new driveshaft shop driveshaft and Hoke engine/trans mounts. With higher HP/Tq setups, is some vibration normal for these cars? Any ideas where to start looking? Thanks and I look forward to learning from you all and eventually becoming a solid contributor to the knowledge base.
. Panama City, August, No AC, small windows.....bring an extra shirt!
ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Welcome. You have a great adventure ahead of you. Take the time to do things right and you will have an amazing car that will bring a smile to your face for a lifetime!