phantaz
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Posts posted by phantaz
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someone asked what model carbs these are....
they are 45DCOE9 Number series 7E
I am trying to get pics up but having issues with loading them.. i should have some up this weekend after i steal my gf's camera.
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Oh yea... drove it to the nearest town for gas.. about 15 mins away..and when i popped the gascap it had a huge vacumn on it!!! i kept the hose to the surge tank in the engine bay so im not sure what that was about.
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well..... its running and not stumbling at idle or revving up... runs while under a load.. idle from a stop pretty good up to around 2800 rpm.. try to gas it and it just kind loads up slightly but at 3000rpm it pulls like a freight train.
2 major problems to overcome though.
1. idle still wants to hang around 1300.. can blip the throttle sometimes and it will drop to 950. the solution so for is med throttle return springs.
its smoothed it out but you have to have a muscled up leg to push the throttle down which cant be good on the linkage.
2. with one of the springs off its easier to operate the gas but the idle will stay up at 1300 or so and it has a lurch in it just off throttle. you start easing the throttle and bam its taking off like you you floored it.. it feels like its hanging and then something lets go.. kinda.
its really hard to explain.
still tinkering but damn is it smooth and no backfires anywhere in the rpm range. just the idle problem which probebly has something to do with the second problem also.
i have some video but my computer is arguing with me about format and cant seem to link it or play it other than on my T-mobile site.. grrrrrr
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That's the intake for the air correctors. Check your float levels, I bet they're too high.
I don't have my Weber book with me to see what 45DCOE float height should be. Float specs vary depending on carb model. What does the top of your carb say, is it 45DCOE9 or another model? Setting the floats correctly is essential for proper carb operation.
If you are interested in tuning triples and how they work, I recommend getting Braden's book. It's a great resource to have on hand and the price is nothing to complain about!
Otherwise, both this site and google have tons of info. Hey, there's even a sticky!
awesome.. awesome.. and even more awesome...
headed out tonite to tinker while my Dads bluegrass band practices in the garage... music from both worlds..
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Another question popped up the day before and i forgot to ask..
when looking at the intake side of the Carbs... the left side intake as a large hole just above it... when we rev it up.. we get gas coming out of that hole every now and then.. we pulled the top plate off and the gasket looks good. My Dad says his triples have never done that and not sure what it is.
and ideas?? i still think the gasket is not good.
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My new hero.... thanks for the pics!!!
didnt go tinker with it today.. low last nite was 6.... yes.. single digit.. 6. that just sounds so damn cold when you say it outloud lol
high windchill today sooooo will wait for a slightly warmer day =)
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Leon, Thnx for info and PCV rerouting is also something we were looking into..
Ill have to run this by ny Dad though.. he has trips on his and waayyy more experience playing with them.. im not sure what the progression ports are but i bet he does..
something else onthe linkage.. it has what i call turnbuckle type links instead of rods. My Dad says they are the short versions.. he has the long versions.. quicker throttle response i guess. longer one are for slower throttle response.. .
Cygnusx1... once again.. progression ports..i need to find some info on this quickly i guess =)
thanks for the replies and comments.. should have some pics up by mid week.
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Started Wednesday morning and idling, runing and driving friday morning..
Pulled the Fuel injection off and installed the 45DCOE Webber's.
took a few hours of tinkering with the idle jets but it idles and doesnt backfire or jump. blipping the throttle screams it up to 5k rmp easy and idles back down most of the time =) some times have to quick blip it.
not bad since the carbs have been sitting in a box for 8 years. checked it all out and went through every screw out piece we could find and cleaned and sprayed any material out of of it would could.
Couple of questions though.
1. Rough idea of what the timing should be set on?
2. Should this be able to run without the vacumn advance being attached to the intake?? we did all this and forgot it was unattached..
3. had to put 3 really tight springs on it to keep the idle down.. extremely hard to get a steady acceleration.
4. has a N42 head, competion springs, newer "Fuel Injection" cam. Rough idea of the Idle RPM? we can get it to idle around 900rpm but it has flat spots.. up the timing a little and it idles around 1000-1200 rmp and has one slight flat spot around 2800rpm. 3000rpm and it takes off like a rocket.
i will post some pics as soon as we get it cleaned up a little. No filters on it right now.. the rubber ends had hardened so much that trying to stretch them on cause them to crumble.
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I own a 87 BMW 328IS and cant wait to see this finished.. ive always thought the six from the Bimmer would be a natural in the z.. but i have to say all the work you putting into this is a little..... ok waayyy beyond me. This transplant is not for the faint of heart.. nor shade tree mechanic im thinking...
Your actually the head NASA mechanical/electrical engineer!!! i knew it!!
Keep the pics coming and hope it fires up the first time!!!
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The only requirement on a 77 would be some fuel pump relay jumpers (through that inertial switch as mentioned) and a different regulator. There are more out there on the market, they sell them in Summitt, Jegs, etc...
The stock EFI pump is what supported me on my blowthrough turbo at well over 300HP, for N/A Webers it's a cakewalk for that pump...and it's QUIET!
Worst case, you hook up to the fuel pump pigtail under the carpet behind the passenger's seat with some bullet connectors and run your relays and switch under the dash...
Fuel pump relay jumpers... we were going with a hot wire to the pigtail to a remote on off switch i already have on the dash so im assuming that what you mean.. =) 5 lb regulator is going infront of the fuel block so im hoping that should do it...
Sounds like what we had planned already but was just looking for more info.. thanks for the responses..
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I liked the L-Jet very much once I memorized the FSM. Â It's really a simple system. Â I like the Webers over the L-Jet simply because of the multiple throttle plates, breathing potential, the mystique, and of course, the sound.
BTW if you decide to go with Megasquirt or stay L-Jet, I'll give you DOUBLE what you paid for that set of Webers. Â You said you got them for free right?Â
no problem.... shipping will be around $1000.00 though.. cough cough.
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i had read somewhere else in here that you can use the stock fuel pump but if it wont "feed" the bowls before start up im not sure how that will work. sounds like a good way to run down your battery.
the fuel pressure regulator would i assume keep fuel in the carb lines but if the car set for a week or two that fuel would evaporate im assuming.
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The EFI pump turns on for a burst of pressure when the key is first put in the run position. Â It then shuts off and waits for the engine to crank and fire up, upon which the pump will run continuously maintaining EFI pressure of somewhere North of 30psig.... Â If the engine stalls, so does the pump, via a switch in the AFM, regardless of the key in the run position.
For Webers you need 3psi of fuel. Â You need a different fuel supply system. ie. pump, regulator, return line use (optional).
Its always a good idea to have the pump shut off if the car is hit or rolls over. Â They make switches for that. Â Search "intertia switch" and consider using it when you wire a fuel pump to any switch or relay.
These are the 45's not the 40's like i originally thought.
the carb set comes with 2 fuel pumps, pressure gauge, fuel pressure regulator, fuel line T-fitting before the reg ( i believe to send the back pressure fuel off the T to the return line to the fuel tank)fuel block with 3 fuel outlets and fuel lines to the webers, all six filters and all the linkage.
the Inertia switch is a good idea i hadnt thought about.
Thanks for the responses. =0)
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Why don't you want to troubleshoot the issues you are having with the stock EFI?
Mostly because its become a money pit.. every time i fix something on the system something else is an issue.
Ive thought about Megasquirt and thats still an option but a free set of working triples are hard to pass up.
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Hello all,
Ive come across a set of Triple 40 webbers and since i having issues with my stock FI system (30years old) im thinking of putting the trips on.
Ive got most of it figured out including a nice fuel regulator to drop the pressure down but my question regards the actual stock 77 fuel pump.
1. does it pump fuel when the key is on or only once the car is started and running?
my Dad and I had ariginally thought it pumps when the key was on to keep the pressure up but now im not sure.
He has a triple webber set up and has 2 remote fuel pumps that use switches he installed but can we just run a hot wire to the stock pump to turn on with the key or to a switch?
kinda rambled that last bit but thanks for any suggestions or comments in advance.
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Xnke might be my new personal hero.. Wiring harness for Dummies might be a best seller on here.
MS seems to be the most logical chioce for me for price and info on hte net about it so a harness guide would make my life imeasurable easier..
ive installed stereos for a living in my younger days and back then.. you ahad to make your own harnesses sometimes and
that was a pain with no one else to refer too.
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Thanks for the quick replies.. one of the reasons i luv this site.
In no particular order but hopeful covers the replies and questions..
I do plan on uppin the compression a little. i have a n42 head which i have had shaved and put on a mr.gasket metal gasket. i have the motorsport double spring kit with a mild cam already installed also. if i go turbo i realize i will have to swap heads and go lower compression. i plan on running a rear mounted turbo set up if i do it, so dont need the turboheader. hard to find and spendy anyways.
im lookin for mostly a slow steady and plenty of time outlook on the MS. im reading the forums on there more and more but finding ones that are just aobut replacin the stock system is kinda hard to find.
headers and hotter cam are what i would like have by next summer and that why im thinkin of the MS while i have the top end apart. and since i have the big throat throttle body and matched intake, that also i would like done. but as Datsun Deron mentioned a few changes and get it running right sounds like the smart thing. but if the system is straight forward enough.. which is why im askin on here, the tuning part regardless of the changes?? is going to be the hard part. not really the installation?
TennesseeJed?? which Bible do you speak of? Datsun service manuel?MS installation guide? or the basic Lord help me through this Bible? or all 3?? lol
headers adnd cam dont seem to be the dramatic change that would mess the stock system up but the big throat/intake is kinda useless with the AFM currently on it.
So FIRST. headers and cam installed on stock system.. should be an afternoon actually.. done the cam thing a few times already =)
Second. Get the MS runing and tuned on that .. then upgrading to the big throat/intake.. maybe bigger cc injectors while at . Retest and tune.
Third. big bore. i have a set of pistons i bought several years ago from someone on here to go from 2.8 to 3.0.
That might fall into the " While im at" syndrom.. my and ZR8ED can go to rehab together i guess...
Basically im trying to be realistic on how and when i do this.. i cant spend 10K on my car on my current budget and not a mechanic/machinest who sometimes run into deals or swaps . im thinkg 250-300 horse with basic shadetree wrenchin and some electronic knowhow and reading a WHOLE LOT this might be possible.
once again thanks for the replies and suggestions..
keep em coming.. lord knows i need the help/motivation or that sudden lightbulb over my head to go off =)
sorry for being long winded.. going to get banned for writing novels on here =)
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Ditto on the white.. they just look classy and smooth..
looked at those xxr rims on ebay.. 16's?? is your Z lowered at all.. looks like a tight fit in the back. Looks good though!!!
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Hello all, Ive read thorugh several pages of posts and couldnt really find the specific answer to my question. not suprising.. SO MUCH INFO =0)
Would MS be worth the time and effort to buy, install, test, tune and eventually run a NA z motor with stock injection? No big turbos or crazy aftermarket fuel injector system. I just want to be able to bypass the big problem of the stock Bosch system. THat afm flapper and stock ECU just doestn seem to be readily hotrodded, tuned or work with aftermarket upgrades like larger injectors, or pushing more fuel pressure. From my understanding it just wont read the new info correctly to help.
Im a big believer of "if its not broke dont monkey with it" =) And my z starts fine.. idles fine adn pulls hard.. for a stock motor. Everything ive gleened from this site tells me the only " Real" performce upgrade i can get from the stock system is a good header and exhaust system and a hotter Cam.
i would like the option of possible going to a turbo setup at somepoint in the future ( read 3or more years)if i can find a turbo head and turbo system for decent price but until then. i would like to increase air and fuel delivery with the hotter cam adn exhaust. i have a figure of 250hp from the NA system.. at least im hoping that a reasonalbe figure.. 300hp is my goal later with bored out and head work done when i can afford it.
SO back to the question.. would MS be feasible for say, a winter project to get away from the limitations of the stock system or should i wait until i need to really change stuff when and if i go turbo.???
that afm really really annoys me.. ive done the "Tune" on the spring tension on it already and it helped a bit but i have a big throat throttle body set up with bored out intake throat to help airflow and would like to use that but im thinking hte AFM would make it pretty much useless. please please correct me if im wrong.
thanks for any comments and sorry for such a basic question but i think a few people might be interested in this as well.
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The Engine angle looks a little steeper then the z motor but after losing my brain trying to figure out the angles you were mentioning about the position to line everything up im guessing thats the only way.. might be the pic angle too..
Boy that looks like a natural fit though!!!!
If you insist
First fit into my 260... -
As a owner of a 77 z and a 97 BMW 328IS i am really really really really looking forward to the supercheap well built completly turnkey kit you will surely be selling this week to swap the bmw motor in to my beloved z. ....
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cough cough.
seriously though.. as much electronic foo foo as there is in my beemer ive been wishing someone with knowledge would do a write up on this for awhile know.. i love my z but love the smoothness and power of the beemer inline six.
more posts and pics please =0)
really regretting moving from portland now..
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Hey guys, been a long time since ive posted here but i have moved, changed jobs and family issues has kept me pretty much wrapped up since last summer. I last posted about finally getting ready to paint my 77 z. long story short is the paint company we bought the paint from and went back to TWICE sold us the wrong paint.. gave us single stage paint when i was trying to do a 2 stage and we just couldnt figure out why the clear kept cracking... well the fumes from the premixed clear/hardener was doing the deed.. we repaint my poor hood 3 times trying to figure it out.. talk about frustrating. That went through up until the fall and it got to cold to prectice painting anymore. I had decided on the 2 stage using a newer BMW blue metallic that we had not painted with before. so we thought we were doing something wrong. This spring we finally went to a diff store when we found out the other one had went out of business after 20 years of service. amazing it lasted that long. and when we showed up carrying the paint in he was dumbfounded that they sold us that paint TWICE. He was the owner of the other one and had sold it about 8 years ago.
anyways, i have all the pics on my face book but here are a few of the final product. Its amazing how many dents show up after you put on a good paint job.. sigh.
First shot was driving up to park i, and a decent one with sun going down and the roof show showing cloud reflections. Pretty proud of roof.. it had some serious dents in it. Last shot shows more of the color while sun was still mostly up. ill get around to the requisite "at speed" shots and down in the industrial area shots later =). You can really see the difference with my original Sig pics below.. yep same car =0)
any questions or comments are more than welcome =) glad to be back !
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agrees with ZR8ED.. i removed my bumpers from my 77 and had to grind off that "fin" mine was riveted to the body.. i think ihave pics on my profile somewhere of what it looks like now with home made bumper. i moved it in real snug to the body like the 240z bumper and that fin was just in the way.
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LOOking good.. need to see some rear view pics though =0)
First fit into my 260...
Turbo lsx 300z Z32 swap video
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
that looks great!!