Thaniel
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Posts posted by Thaniel
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Man that would make one sick daily driver. An ls1 325i with air and all the amenaties. I can dream cant I.
Sorry for dragging up and old post but I couldn't resist. Yes it does make a wonderful daily driver. Been driving mine for nearly 2 years now.
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Thanks, If I am anywhere near there, I'll be sure to hit you up...
I wish I had the $$$ for the drivetrain, I would probably take it.. it would save me some time, but I am putting the money into the "other" parts on the wagon now.. (sway bars, struts, strut tubes, springs, windows, seals....the list goes on) a few of the parts have been to the paint shop for stripping and epoxy primer.. the car is in so many stages Its hard to figure out what is what.)
AH....Sounds like your project is getting some nice chassis improvements. Yah stop by and have a look and go for a ride.
It would definately save time to buy the drivetrain all together. Took a lot to gather all the componenets. I'm not looking to make a bunch or money just get what the components are worth (Basically the customizing comes for free
).Thaniel
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The manifolds are still towards the front. The built in oil cooler is out of the question. With some firewall massaging the stock plenum should work. (sans hoodlatch of course) The motor needs to shift to the passengerside about an inch. The transmission tunnel could have been left intact if i felt like drilling out every spot weld that held the stock tranny mount brace in place. Its easier to just cut the tunnel and weld a new piece of sheet metal in for me
The water temp sensor should have just BARELY enough room to fit. Shifter location wont be bad at all aswell. -
Hey Cruez. I just noticed you're in NC. I'm now living in the SW part of Virginia (exit 101 of I-81). IF you're ever by my way you could drop by and check out my handy work if you'd like.
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Those 350Z 6-speeds can be found for very affordable prices surpisingly.
Yes they can but BEWARE. Most are from dealers replacing them due to the 3rd gear grind. In short most are NOT what you want. Don't touch anything from 2003 unless you can drive it first. Beware of Dealer take outs etc.
My first trans was a 2003 and it ground BAD. Couldn't UP shift into 3rd no mater how slow without it grinding. Forget about downshifting into 3rd without double clutching. I ended up getting a 2004 version later and it works great.
The nissan engines are great and have excellent reliability.
Oh. I'm thinking of selling my drivetrain or the whole car as I'm onto another project. If anyone is interested drop me a message. Act now and I'll throw in my 2003 trans and and extra clutch for for no extra charge
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That is the swap that I am considering for the 510 wagon.. Nice and light engine, modern efi, and a smooth running engine at that... At least the engine part will be somewhat inexpensive.... the tranny on the other hand...
I saw it done on a 240SX... that engine combo is quite a few pounds less that the KA series engine setup.
How difficult is mating the 6 speed to the VQ30 ?..
To mate the 6-speed to the VQ30.
Oilpan and windage tray (350z)
350z starter and a starter spacer (1/2" thick) if I remember right.
Slight alteration of the pan to acomodate the VQ30 crank sensor.
Front crank sensor holder (custom) to hold the VQ30 front crank sensor
Throw out bearing spacer (custom) designed by yours truly. I've given a copy of my drawing to some guys doing 240sx swaps and it worked for them as well. If someone wants it I can dig around and find the drawing.
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Except, the VQ30 manifold places the throttle body facing the transmission. If used in a RWD car that would make the TB face the firewall. Hmmmm, would probably need too much reworking of the manifold to make it useful.
It does require reworking but is possible Here's a link showing my vq30 and 350z trans into an rx-7
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=22517
Also more specifics on what I did to modify the intake
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=22010
It's been over two years and it is still on the car and no problems.
Thaniel
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if you got a totaled 350z cheap and wanted a simple swap job with no turbo it would work good.scrapping the car for the big brakes and r230 rear wouldnt hurt either.the obd2 efi wiring would be a hassle but somebody like jim wolf could probably rework the computor to ignore some sensors not installed.welding motor mounts would have to be done.good luck.
I don't think the sensors would be TOO big of a problem. A few things that are important to note are.
THe NATS (security) system will need to be kept intact for the car to run (ECU, IMMU and key all from the same car or dealer will have to rerogram ecu)
The 350z trans does not have a speed sensor. the 350z gets it's speed signal from the ABS sensors.
The throttle is controled by wire not cable so you would need the gas pedal too.
I put a maxima motor in my car with a 350z trans (has a 350z oil pan now too).
Thaniel
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What are most of you running on your VG series engines for transmissions?
I am trying to get a Mazda guy to convert his RX-7 from Ford V8 to VG. Or at least trying to give him a little nudge. He already likes the platform so it's not going to be hard. He has a stroked 302 pushing around 300hp
Anyway.
He has money. Building a good motor will not be a problem. He wants 600hp. How realisic is that?
As far as the tranny goes for big HP:
What is a bolt on?
What is easily modify-able
All the stock specs I have seen for T-5 are around 320 Ft of torque. I have seen a few others that have been built up for larger HP and torque applications so I know that will work' date=' so what else?
thanks[/quote']
What year mazda Rx-7? I put a VQ into one of my rx-7's. It didn't fit too well. The front sump of the engine ends up about where the steering rack was. Have to do some modifications to get it to fit.
Anyway...I did and It's running round on the street. I'm not sure I'd recommend it in the RX-7 though. There are easier engines to put in there.
Link to my project.
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=22517&page=1&pp=25
I now have a 350z oil pan on it and a differerent trans (this one does not have the 3rd gear grind). Working on some minor details now.
Thaniel
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well i did some more reserch and ppl said that the 350 trans wont bolt up and u have to replace the hole rear end. any ideas ???
The bolt pattern for the trans is different. An adapter would have to be made or purchased. I believe the eariler post mentioned that. I don't see why you would have to change the diff. I have a 350z trans working with a Rx-7 diff. With a custom driveshaft any trans can mate to any diff. Pretty much. Problem I ran into was the output spline on the 350z trans was not a standard size and no one had aftermarket slip yokes. At least not a year ago. Also 350z trans tend to have a 3rd gear grind. The one I bought had 527 miles on it and grinds horribly going into 3rd. Shifting up or down. I have a different 350z trans on my garage floor. But haven't had a chance to try it out. I hope it is better.
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Why put a 350Z tranny in it, the VG30's tranny is much stronger.
It would take EXTENSIVE modifications to get a VG tranny to bolt to a VQ block (new belhousing). The 350z Trans would likely just need a little modification for the crank angle sensor to fit.
the 350z trans seems plenty strong just has crappy syncros.
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Where does it say the heads are from the 3.5L? I must of missed it.
If I remember correctly in the artical they said one of the first things they did was change the heads. I didn't see where they said which heads they used (3.0 or 3.5) but the engine clearly has variable valve timing which I don't believe was on the 3.0. It is standard equiptment on the 3.5. I have read about people using 3.0 heads on a 3.5 block so I see no reason the opposite wouldn't work as well.
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This has nothing to do with you swap but I thought it might be a nice read' date=' Top Secret put a VQ30 in a 350z. Via Super Street:
http://superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0406_350z/[/quote']
Interesting article. It appears that the front cover and heads are from the 3.5L (variable valve timimg componets are easily seen). Makes me wonder how much of the 3.0L engine they used. Block and crank? Nice power output though and with the variable valve timing could have some low RPM grunt too.
Thaniel
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My ultimate goal is to put one of these beasts in my 1984 300ZX Turbo' date=' but I realize that's going to be tough. It's a japan-only release, from the Cedric and the Gloria 300T models. It's a 3.0 liter in the same family as the 350Z engine, and is powered by a single turbo. Aluminum block, all alloy, etc. My question lies in the usefulness of one of these. Has anyone ever swapped one of these into ANYTHING, let alone a Z31? I cannot find any writeups, stories or even mentions of this swap ever occurring. I was hoping that perhaps with my welder and grinder I could affix a Nissan Cedric or Gloria crossmember to my 300ZX, and then it would be a matter of one custom engine mount (I think).
But most of this is speculation. Does anyone have any more information or experience with these?[/quote']
I don't know a lot about the VQ30DET but it does seem to share the same block as the other rear drive VQ motors. And yes the VQ motors do use a timing chain and not a belt. The VQ motors do NOT share the same tranny bolt pattern as the VG motors so you will need to get a trans that bolts to a VQ. You would have to get the whole thing from Japan. Maybe a half cut or something. I think the Gloria Cedric only came with auto trans. Could be wrong. you could probably put a 350z or pathy manual trans up to the VQ30DET but all the available 350z trans will likely have gear grind. How do I know....I don't want to talk about it.
Thaniel
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i dealt with that maxima bearing preload problem, the maxima transmission absolutely blows. i tried different clutches i changed my driving style i even stopped accelerating hard in an attempt to save trannies and ive blown 5 of them now. basically now the car just sits. i dont know what it is but they just dont handle any abuse.
On the maxima, are you having problems with the bearings or something else? I put new bearings in to my wife's '87 5 speed many years ago. Measuring for the correct shims (and getting the shims) was a big pain but we put a boat load of miles on that trans and it never had any problems after I rebuilt it. Didn't baby it either. We have a '96 maxima right now and it seems as it is doing fine so far. Might have gotten lucky and got one that actually had the right preload to start with.
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Unfortunately my hard drive crashed and I don't have my bookmarks for that board. There wasn't much else on fixing it as everyone with a 350z just has it done under warrenty.
I'm still kind of pissed about the transmission being so poor. It's bad enough that I now skip 3rd all together. I didn't pay a ton for the trans but I was lead to believe that it was in good working condition.
From driving it more (over 500 miles so far). It seems to me that the syncro spring is too soft or something is not shimmed properly. Some Maxima's had incorrect bearing preload causing problems so it is not unheard of for nissan to screw that up.
I personally am hoping to find a cheap or free one near by so I can rebuild the trans and then swap mine out. I don't want to have my car down for long.
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I was ( and back in a small prvate corner of my mind still am) considering grabbing an FC or FD RX7..... and one of the sites I still read is RX7clubdotcom.... has its share of people we try to avoid, but not as bad as some of our sister Z sites. There are even a couple of LS1 Rexes there, as well as A GN7 . Good info, good stickies, and some very knowledgeable peeps. If anyone needs a rebuilt rotary engine, search there for Rotary Revolution, great guy, would fit in here were he a Z-type.
There are more than a couple LS1 rx-7s out there. see http://www.torquecentral.com
It seems to be a popular swap. However I decided to put a Nissan engine in my FC though. Got to be different I guess.
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As for reliability, that's a myth, if a rotary is treated well(not over-revved) and serviced by someone that knows what they're doing it will serve you well.
Go to any Rx-7 web site and do a search for "unflood" procedure etc. When is the last time your nissan flooded on you? The Mazda dealer explained the flooding fact of the Rx-7 to me soon after I bought the car.
Also look for blown coolant seal and broken apex seal. Or just check the forsale section of any rx-7 site and you'll see the same.
I drove my rx-7 the same way I drove any of my nissan cars. My pathy has 210,000 miles on it (original engine and trans). My rx-7 started blowing a coolant seal and then blew an apex seal at aprox 100,000 miles on the SECOND engine. I also rebuilt the trans. The car flooded more than a dozen times in the 10 years I owned it. I've never had any of my nissan engines flood..ever (I've had 2 200sx's, 2 maximas and a pathfinder)
Rotaries are fun but they DO have reliablity issues.
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It is easy to forget the 13B is only a 1308cc engine. If you make the same power per displacement from most other engines and drive them just as hard as rotarys are often driven you will find they don't last any longer. I have some experience racing 13B PP and SBC and can tell you the Chev is MUCH more expensive to run and had much less power per cube!
- 230hp/liter vs 100hp/liter.
I would like to know how many hard miles you get from a 1380hp 350 Chev as I know the rotary will do 1000 racing miles at this level of output. Does anyone have any experience running piston engines this hard? I had a little to do with a 2.8L turbo four that made 600hp in a road car but the owner moved interstate and I have no idea how long it lasted. It also had a easy life in a road car but that is the most powerfull (per liter) piston engine I have ever worked on.
Also are you guys running the factory oil injection set up on your cars?
If you are' date=' don't, its no good and is the cause of rapid apex seal wear. Disable the standard set up and run quality 2 stroke oil in the fuel at 100:1 for heavy work or 200:1 for factory levels of lube.
By quality I mean Amsoil racing oil or the like, not cheap stuff. The fact is engine oil makes a poor combustion chamber lube as it is designed to burn clean for emisions in most applications and does not hang around to do its job like a good 2 stroke oil. You will notice improved running as soon as it goes in.
Peter.[/quote']
Premix....Not for me. I'm not messing around with bottles of oil at the gas pump...I've seen some oil injection conversions that sounded interesting but never did it.
Bottom line was my rx-7 was didn't have the power and fuel milage I was seeing from other engines. However I'm talking street use only. Racing is a whole nother world.
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I found this on a 350z site.
If a dealer chooses to rebuild a trans because of ther 3rd gear grind this is what they replace:
32609-cd000 Insert-shifting
32610-cd000 Hub and sleeve SE
32603-cd005 Spring-shifting
32620-cd011 Ring baulk
32260-cd004 Gear assy-3rd
32276-cd001 Bearing-needle
32274-cd000 Bush counter GE
32811-cd000 Fork shift, 3rd
34133-mb000 pin retainer
Seems the third gear grind is REALLY common. Some guys have 3 different transmissions installed. That really surprises me. I expected better from nissan. So far I am not pleased with the trans. It sounds noisy when idleing in neutral (like a worn bearing).
Everytime I shift quickly into third after accelerating to 5K+ rpms I get the grind. What crap. There wasn't much out there about the gear grinding before I bought the trans (aug 2003). At least I hadn't heard anything.
It's going to be awhile before I rebuild the trans. Guess I'll have to live with it for awhile.
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I've been driving my car a bit and I may have the dreaded 350z 3rd gear grind!!!
Anyone hear if there is a fix for it? Can I rebuild the syncro or is some dimension on a critical part way off?
It doesn't grind always. Only when I am pushing it real hard. Maybe some synthetic in the trans would be enough....
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Did the Rx-7 come with ABS in '91? If it did' date=' you could use the same style of system to run your speedo - You may have to go aftermarket on the speedo. What are you using for VSS for your engine control computer?
Doug[/quote']
The ECU gets the VSS signal from the instrument cluster (at least on the maxima). The cruise also gets the signal from the instrument cluster. The Maxima cluster I have gets it's signal from a speed sensor in the trans. It's the 350z that is being different
ABS was optional on my car. I could buy an ABS hub and sensor but I am not sure the signal will be suitable. (the 350z ran the signal through the ABS computer first) I plan to run the signal through a converter so it can be calibrated. I may just put a sensor on the driveshaft or rear axle. Just not sure what sensor to use. Probably easier than retro fitting the abs sensor. Guess I still haven't decided yet though.
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Hello guys' date=' BRAAP is BACK!!!!
Has anyone ran across anyone else converting this east/west V-6 into a north/south config and if so, what is the most common route?
Thanks in advance guys…[/quote']
Here is a link to a guy that put one in an Rx-7.
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ohh okay..
what about converting it to mechanical drive like they do with the 4L60/80E transmissions?
Can't do it. The trans doesn't have a mechanical drive. The only things on the trans are the neutral switch and the reverse switch. In the 350z speed sensing did not come from trans. Wish it did. I've never seen a trans like that before. Probably the wave of the future.
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. Good info, good stickies, and some very knowledgeable peeps. If anyone needs a rebuilt rotary engine, search there for Rotary Revolution, great guy, would fit in here were he a Z-type.
LS1 BMW...no - Not Vorshlag.com!
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Yah my first love is Nissan. I joined up on this board when I was doing my Nissan V6 into the Rx-7 project. That was a fun car although small.
I'll check out your thread.
On and for the record my engine is mounted down the centerline of the car. The offset thing is what some swappers did for clearance. Not that I have anything against that it's just I didn't have to on mine.