Moltar
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Posts posted by Moltar
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Looking for a 280zx or 280zxt thermostat housing complete with sensors.
Shipped to San Jose (95125).
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$30 at Autozone plus $10 core. Typical lead time for one of these units is 1 day.
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Nice looking Z! How much you pick it up for?
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Automobile magazine does a comparison between the new Scion FR-S and a restored 240Z.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15368
Very good read, especially if you have been considering purchasing an FR-S to compliment your Z (like I have been).
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PM sent.
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What's your email address? I can scan you how I've solved it.
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Looking to buy a 4 barrel intake.
Would prefer not to spend more than $200 shipped, but that can be negotiable.
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The stock brakes will work fine if you service them with a rebuilt caliper, new rotor, and new fluid, especially if it is all stock and restored, doing the toyota caliper upgrade would loose originality.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that you have to remember there are two sets of calipers, actually 3 depending on what model you ask for.
Of the 4 piston variety, there is the S12 and the S12+8, the S12 comes from a 79-85 4x4, while the S12+8 comes from the 86-88 4x4 and I believe 4 runner.
The S12 is a simple bolt on upgrade, literally just swap out the caliper, buy a new 240 rotor, search for a larger master cylinder and you are good to go.
The S12+8 is wider to accomodate the vented rotor, which will require a spacer (varies between hubs, 240 and 280z have different hubs) and a vented rotor from a 300zx.
This is correct. 1985 was the last year of the straight front axle in their 4x4 pickup. 1986 was IFS, and as a result different calipers. The 86+ calipers were larger than the '79-'85.
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280Z would be a much easier car to swap a V8 in.
The manual transmission cars came with R200s, they were fuel injected, and most of the extra weight is in the bumpers.
Getting a car factory equipped with an R200 will save you from gathering the parts necessary to swap one in your 240z, and as stated the existing EFI system saves you from getting a fuel injected gas tank and running larger lines.
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This is what happens when an engineer has too much free time. Well, I have this yet engine laying around, and I sold the turbo motor from my Z. Wonder what I should do next...
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Autodesk has a program out there that will help you solve statics problems.
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/autodesk-forceeffect/id476321600?ls=1&mt=8
Very good stuff.
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Exedy had the 240mm Stage 1 organic on clearance on their website last week.
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What did you use as your power source?
Two days seems a bit long.
I've done similar work with a car battery charger wand was done after 4-6 hours.
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Verify the CC of your combustion chamber on the E88. Some E88s (if from a 1971 Z) actually have the smaller combustion chamber from the E31 head, but have a casting mark for E88.
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For anyone interested, there is a near complete turbo motor at Pick-n-Pull Rancho Cordova.
AFM, injectors, dizzy, an oil pump are missing. Everything else is there including the complete wiring harness an ECU.
I believe the ECU might be shot due to a questionable splice at one of the connectors. ECU is for an auto tranny.
Turbo has a lot of radial play.
Motor got water into cylinder 4, and needs a rebuild.
Everything is half off this weekend, I already pulled the motor and wiring. Both are sitting next to the car.
Have fun!
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Mount Hamilton is the nice one. The actual road quality out here is atrocious in my opinion. It's funny, so much money here in Silicon Valley, but the infrastructure is crumbling away.
Where you working at out in these neck of the woods?
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Curious how he came up with "A" in that formula.
"A" is meant to be the largest cross sectional area of the front of the car (ie the silhouette of the front of the car).
Not the total surface area of the car (as is commonly mistaken).
Instructables failed to stipulate that fine point.
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Alright Bay Area CA jag fans. For whoever might me interested, there is a complete SBC jag at Pick-n-Pull North San Jose.
100% complete with I would assume a JTR kit (very clean install).
Also found was a Datsun 1600 with a Chevy V6.
Raid it for parts before it hits the crusher!
I'll snag pics if anyone is interested.
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It does and can happen. My dad works for cooper tire and rubber and has seen this a couple of times. There are any number of factors that can cause sepeartion and bulging between different layers. I know he has mentioned curing a couple of times. Maybe we have some tire builders that could speak to it. Obviously running a tire faster than it is rated cause cause seperation but I doubt that would be the case with a performance bike tire.
Cooper had a recall for their truck tires recently. I had 2 out of my 4 tires separate with 10K worth of tread left on them.
Couldn't refund them either - tires came with the truck (with no receipts for anything). Needless to say I won't be buying Coopers anytime soon.
I would highly recommend buying new tires for your bike as tread separation is very dangerous because of the increased risk of a blow out.
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Where in San Jose you live? I have the orange/black beater that keeps getting beat up in downtown.
Troy Ermish is in Fremont. He is more of a 510 man, but I'd still look into him.
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Tune to Win is by Carroll Smith (not Carroll Shelby, although with a first name of Carroll for both individuals the mistake can be easily made).
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Slant 6 - BMW or Dodge? That'd be an interesting swap...
Sounds like the individual has a loose grasp of Z car specifics. Check it out, and take a picture of the engine. Physically looking at it will tell you more than a brief description will.
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JB weld and drywall tape worked pretty well for me.
I used the drywall tape to act as a reinforcing mesh.
Build up the JB weld and sand.
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I'm down in San Jose.
1971 240Z, zero rust (certified by Chico Nissan when I bought it 2 years ago).
Electronic ignition, new Weber side draft carbs, Tokico springs, 4.11 rear end, cam, header... the basics, nothing crazy. I'm daily driving it now between downtown San Jose and Santa Clara.
Ignore the girlfriend, she isn't for sale. If you are interested, I'll shoot you some newer pics of it.
Kept all the receipts from all the work/parts I've put into it (but no prior history).
Come down into the valley sometime, give me an offer. Worst I can say is no, right?
WTB: Hood Release Cable
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Looking to pick up a hood release cable for an early 240z.
Not sure if the other S30 cars will interchange, but I'll take it if they do.