1hr40
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Posts posted by 1hr40
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So I guess the 5 am start is too early.
I like to get out there before the crowds start!
Would 7 be better?
Here is a link to the map. The route could be expanded to go through Mountain Scene, Unicoi and Helen.
Send me a PM if anyone is interested in going.
Michael
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Is there anyone here in the Northern GA area that would want to meet up for a drive round the Suches, Wolf Pen Gap and Russell B Parkway?
Meet at the waffle house at the end of 400 at the turn towards Dahlonaga near 5:00 am for breakfast. Aim to be done by 9 or so before the crowds arrive.
I will look into creating a google map with the proposed route.
Michael
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I will head out to get a caliper so that I can measure the lobes.
I have to re adjust my valves soon. I think I made them too tight in an effort to quiet that hellish clatter.
Thank you for the info!
Michael
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Sorry no picture.
My car has a bit of a rough idle that I cannot smooth out. It also doesn't start to really accelerate until 2500 rpm or so.
The cam has JAPAN cast into it, an H and also E30. I could not find any other markings other than a 1cm square block also cast into the camshaft.
Is this a stock cam?
Thank you,
Michael
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I got under the car and saw that the moustache bar bushings needed replacement. Done.
Car still had a bad vibration.
Took the car to get the newly mounted and balanced tires rebalanced and the alignment done.
One rear tire was out of balance by 2 oz. the others were out by .25oz. The front alignment's toe was way out.
The car drove completely different with just a bit of vibration from the front that I will attribute to a worn steering rack bushing or some finesse with the alignment that is still needed.
The rear vibration did reappear the next day. I noticed though that along with the rear vibration I could hear my brake backing plate rubbing a bit. I know that I bent the backing plate earlier. If I give the car a quick turn to the right both the brake plate rub and the vibration go away.
I think that this will be the case for most stuff on this car and many other people's cars. Fix one thing just to reveal another problem.
I do not think that adding the new shocks, springs and bushings caused the vibrations. I think that changing those items cleared up their problems and let me find the next wave of repairs and adjustments.
I will consider this thread closed for my needs and now off to learn more about stub axle bearings and alignments!
Thanks for the help from those that posted.
Michael
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My 240Z also has that chunk of metal under the diffy mount. According to some book I read, that was a quick fix to solve vibration problems (only mounted if the customer brought the car back to the dealer to complain about it).
Did you double check the strut mounts to make sure those bolts were tightened?
Did you remove the differential crossmember or something? (You mentioned the mount being out). There is a band of thick rubber mounted between two bolts above the differential towards the front where the driveline connects, that may have possibly been tweaked when you put the crossmember back on. May want to double check that the diffy is sitting up against it properly.
Hello Matt,
I did remove the front diff mount crossmember to replace the bushings for the lower rear suspension arms. The band accross the top looks pretty loose. I thought it was some sort of a safety device in case the diff mount fails. That way the diff would not move far enough to cause permanent damage. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
The rubber for the diff mount looks solid. I did notice some shiny metal around the moustache bar mount bushings. I do not remember seeing that before. Maybe when I did the slow drive around the neighborhood with the front diff mount disconnected I finished off the rear mounts. I will replace them tomorrow.
The halfshafts looked good. The flanges were all nice and tight. I spun everything by hand and did not see anything unusual. Tomorrow I will get someone to sit in the car and bring it up to speed with the car on jack stands while I watch from a safe distance. Maybe I shouldn't have the car pointed at the basketball goal like it is now?
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FYI... I edited my post above. You can't get the diff mount too tight unless you break a bolt. I just had a typing error above.Hey John,
Thank you - if you told me that I had to be wearing purple suspenders while using a left handed wrench to eliminate the vibration I would have gone and gotten them! I will make sure not to break the bolt!
BTW there is what looks to be a home brewed chunk of metal bolted to the bottom of the front diff mount cross member. There are threaded holes for it to bolt too so maybe it is factory but the construction quality makes it look like a bunch of strips of metal were just welded together. It makes for a good jacking pad. Is it a vibration dampner?
Michael
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Hello John,
That's what I was hoping to get from this posting is a list of some things to look for when I get back under the car.
I did not know that it was possible to over tighten the diff mount. The diff does not clunk any more like it did when I did the slow drive around the neighborhood. I will look at it more closely to see if anything tore or looks damaged. Maybe the moustache bar bushings got messed up?
I will double check the half shafts. Since the problem seemed to get worse as the test drive went on maybe they were cocked and now they are loose.
I will post my finding to help someone else that might experience this.
Michael
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Actually The thread title should be
Eibach Springs + Tokico Struts + X = bad vibration please solve for X.
I have just set my car on the road and drove it 80 miles after replacing the worn springs and struts with new tokico struts and eibach springs. I also replaced the bushings with energy systems components. I did not do the moustache bar bushings yet.
I also replaced the old tires with brand new set of Yokohama tires.
When I first took off I felt big thumps because I did not attach the front diff mount.
I fixed that and drove the car awhile. There is a vibration in the front but that might be alignment or steering rack.What I am most concerned about is the vibration from the rear of the car that seemed to be getting much worse by the end of my 80 mile test drive. It is a low frequency vibration and it gets worse at higher vehicle speeds and especially under acceleration at speed.
Are the half shafts indexed to the hubs or each other? I did not mark them when I disconnected them. I searched the other posts and saw a few references to driveline angles and driveshaft u joints. I do not think that lowering the car will affect the driveline angle but it will affect the half shaft angles.
The driveshaft is a newish (<20,000miles) OEM replacement done by the PO. The previous driveshaft had a bad u joint so the PO replaced the entire driveshaft. The 4 speed transmission was also rebuilt.
I did spin the half shafts when they were not connected to the hubs and I could feel a kind of notchy movement. It felt like I could feel the pinion and ring gear meshing.
Before the suspension upgrade I did not have this severe vibration but I do think that I could hear gear noise from the differential.
The car is a 5/75 280z with 140,000 miles on it. It has been in storage since 1983.
I will get under the car this weekend to make sure that the half shafts are still bolted tight. What else can I look for?
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Hello - Thanks for the tips onr Raditz and Williams. I will be sure to check them out.
I hope to have the car back on the road this week. I am almost done with the suspension bushings, shocks shocks and struts. Just waiting on the dust and oil seal for the transmission tunnel to come in.
Next in line is the 5 speed upgrade from a 4, rest of the bushings, rebuild steering rack and then start building the turbo motor.
Paint will be much later.
I will be ready for a drive soon! Suwanee - Marietta - Elijay - Fort Mountain - Suches - Cleveland - Helen then back to Suwanee.
Anyone up for it?
1hr40
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Hello!
I am in Suwanee GA and am looking for someone local that has been there done that with the early 280Zs.
This forum has been a huge help so far but I would like to be able to work with someone closer to home and also go driving with once my car is back on the road.
I am currently in the process of upgrading the suspension and have had a few starts/stops and changes of direction. If I had someone local to bounce my ideas off of in addition to the resources of this site I might be onto the other portions of the project by now.
No need for them to get thier hands dirty unless they want to!
Thanks,
Michael
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I have done my homework,, searched the forums and read the recomendations and have determined that the L28ET will be the best option for my 75 280z and my budget.
I had originally planned to swap the stock motor for an LT1 and autotrans with reprogrammed shifting.
I already have an LT1 with the l460E transmission, ecu, starter, wiring and other bits and pieces that I pulled from my 1995 Buick Roadmaster Station Wagon.
My preference would be to swap the V-8 for all of the items that I would need for the L28ET engine swap.
The LT1 is in excellent running condition. It did not burn oil nor were there any unusual noises. I have cleaned the engine so it is ready for installation or to receive upgrades. I was going to replace the distributor cover and plug wires and gaskets/seals.
I am in the Atlanta, GA area and can travel to the surrounding states if needed.
BTW I also have a 1967 Datsun 520 pickup that is pretty sweet!
Let me know what you have!
I fixed that and drove the car awhile. There is a vibration in the front but that might be alignment or steering rack.
Who Daily Drives their s30
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I drive mine just over 80 miles a day commuting in the Atlanta traffic.
Tons of fun and I am with the exception of seeing Tim and Ashley in the Duluth area - the only 280Z around.
Thanks to all of the info on this forum and the small handful of Z car shops in town I hope to keep my Z on the road for quite a few years!
BTW - Solo racing is a blast!
www.soloatlanta.com