preith

This is probably opening up a can of worms, there is an argument for not bushing the wrist pin on full floater apps. Mine aren't, this is on a full tilt race motor too, and I haven't had any problems. I just tore town the motor and there wasn't any play. The old timer I took it to has been building motors without them for a long time. He did put a pretty good sized hole on the top of the rod, based off my memory about .25".

Excuse my ignorance, but how do you blueprint the curvature?

There was actually 3 of them last year, they just weren't auctioned off during the telecast. I glanced through the car list from this years event and didn't see any though.

It is neat, but seems a bit odd to me too. Why the oil cap of all places? With that said, maybe I'll have to get one...

An old timer who's been preparing raced Zcars for over 20 years specifically told me to loop it. This helps it run cooler.

Just an FYI. I have AZ-Zcar's big brake setup (the 12.25" kit) with Panasport 15x7's. The rear calipers did require a tiny amount of material removed on the top edge, but that's it.

It's always about parts when it comes to Porches. A buddy of mine had a 924, which from what I remember shared the engine with another manufacuturer. When he would go to the parts house to buy something like a t-stat, he'd tell them it was the other make, and the same exact part was magically 1/2 the price of the Porch one. IMHO, the only way anyone can own one is if they don't care about originality, and have some fabrication skills. I was thinking why couldn't you adopt something else, like one of the aluminum radiators that we talk about for the Z, from Summit or something? If it doesn't need a rebuild, fine, but if so, a Chevy swap would probably cost the same complete, and cheaper to repair as well.

No way. He's been up front quite a bit, but never had a chance of winning. After he won the championship in '99, they slapped 390cfm carb requirement on him. I talked with him at the Sprints the following year, congradulated him, and he said "they made sure I'll never win it again". The SCCA competition board always had some opposition to letting that car run in GT2, when they felt it should've been in GT1. All the other cars in GT2 are about 3L or less. He would have been way out classes against the ex-Trans Am cars, but perhaps they were right. I frequent gt-racecars.com. All the Runoffs participants frequent it, including Mr. Patton, and it's a never ending soap opera with how much hp a car supposedly has and what the minimun curb weight allowed should be. Plus the SCCA is gradually implementing SIR's (single inlet restrictors), and then the squabling is ten fold.

The original Cobra was 260 powered' date=' but the went to the 289 very shortly after, and the Tiger was 289 powered from the onset, or so I thought. As far as I know, it wasn't Shelby's idea, but the owner of Sunbeam who approached Shelby because of the Cobra's success. Shelby did the prototype, but that's about it. I think I remember a pretty good article in Grassroots Motorsports about the Tiger. One thing that stands out in my mind is they actually had a guy on the line with a sledge hammer to "massage" the tunnel for clearance. Another main reason for going Ford was because of the distributor location. EDIT: The car is very, very far from original, but worth mentioning. Tom Patton (the '99 Runoffs champion) has been racing a GT2 tiger since the early 80's, and has had considerable success with it. EDIT#2: I came accross this website which looks to have pretty much all you ever wanted to know about the car: http://www.tigersunited.com/history/ Also, I stand corrected, it looks like a 260 was in fact used.

I've been a huge fan ever since he was on Comedy Central back in '99 or '00. Him and Pablo Fransisco, but I haven't seen anything remotely new from Pablo in a long time. Anyways his appearance on the Tonight Show with Charlize Theron was priceless.

Hey Paul, I plan on taking some pics when it's done, but nothing to show thus far. I picked up a Patterson tank off ebay for $150, which I thought was a good deal. I had bought a used dry sump "package" from someone last year, which consisted of: ATI damper w/drysump mandrel ARE cast aluminum pan Weaver 3 stage pump. I have to fabricate the pump bracket yet, which is bolting to the AC mount on the driver's side. The final result will look almost identical to weaver set-up pictured in Honzowetz's book. I'm going off of his plumbing diagram too.

The "factory" filter side is 3/4, but that end I wasn't worried about, I needed a 10AN fitting instead.

Looks like I get to reply my own post, that's a "no-no" right? Well anyways I should have stated that this is for my dry sump project. I stopped by my local race shop (Pegasus) and bought an 18mm X 1.5mm to 10AN adapter fitting. The adapter is about .07mm larger than the original, at 17.89mm total. It looks like it'll be tight, but will work. EDIT: here's a pic

Because you plan on running a 280, I'm not entirely sure, but I beleive you can get away with running an earlier 240 flywheel, which is a few pounds lighter. I happen to have one and looking to sell, email or PM me. Phil

I searched....What's the diameter and thread on the motor block filter boss, not the 3/4-16 filter side. I have the adapter out and measured it with the calipers at 17.8mm with a 1.5mm thread. 18mm??

You can use sand, but get silca sand, and not just 'run of the mill' play sand. But I had better results with an aluminum oxide or...I forget what it's called, the black stuff available at a local builders store, Home Depot, etc, maybe the 'slag' refered to above. I hear so often how you shouldn't sandblast panels, but I've had good luck with it. This is using a high pressure industrial strentgh gun too. The trick to it is be patient and don't hold the gun in one spot for a long time. Just skim over it taking small amounts, or layers, off at a time. Also it seems like any used panels have their share of dings and blemishes, and I just end up putting a thin glaze coat of bondo over everything anyways. EDIT I also wanted to say that I have my own perssure blaster tank from eastwood, and just about everything clogged it because I didn't have a air dryer.

Amen. Living in the 'rust belt', I feel a need to chime in. Wire wheels work great on mostly surface rust, but if there's any kind of substantial pitting, etc, the only way is sandblasting (oxide blasting) aside from chemical. I don't know if this an anomaly, but there's a local place that I doubt I could have gotten by without. They rent out blasting booths, a $1.25 a minute, no mess and no repirators needed. It's great for anything you can take off the car, the booths are rather large and can fit front fenders for example.

So you used the same 300/100 valving in both the ITS and the Eprod cars? What spring rates were you running on both?

So you used the same 300/100 valving in both the ITS and the Eprod cars? What spring rates were you running on both?

Known as Advance Design. They go for $400 each, and I've heard good things about them. I have Illuminas with spring rates in the 250-275 range, which from what I hear is the limit for Illuminas. When it's time to replace them, I'll either bite the bullet and buy the AD's, or go with Koni's, which seem to be the best bang for the buck.

Known as Advance Design. They go for $400 each, and I've heard good things about them. I have Illuminas with spring rates in the 250-275 range, which from what I hear is the limit for Illuminas. When it's time to replace them, I'll either bite the bullet and buy the AD's, or go with Koni's, which seem to be the best bang for the buck.

Looks like I missed this thread, but better late than never. It was fairly common to taper bore the 44's back in the day. They would actually machine the venturi into the carb. The outlet was still 44mm, but from what I hear they would then flow pretty close to 50's. This was their way of getting around the rules. It technically wasn't illegal when they first started doing it, but from what the late Dave Weber (from Malvern Racing) told me, when the tech guys saw it for the first time they freaked. Now 50's are legal in GT2 anyways. You can still have it done today...at $600 a carb. I spoke with Todd, at Wolf Creek Racing, about this. He said the machine shop he goes to simply raised the price because it's a major PITA to machine them, and they didn't want to do it anymore.