Roggaman
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Posts posted by Roggaman
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I don´t know the conditions on the road were you live, but I would say that below 4" you are limiting the streets you can drive it on!
My 280ZX has had around 90mm of ground clearence at its lowest setting, and it got stuck now and then...
I ended up raising my frame rails, and now have around 105mm (4 1/4")
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Does anyone have or know where to find, a drawing for the L28 oil pan bolt pattern?
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No problems with mounting the trigger wheel on the non-rigid part of the pulley?
Seems it would give an incorrect trigger signal due to vibrations in the rubber mounted part of the pulley.
I know a guy that install lot of both MS and Vems systems, and he recommends not to do it that way.
Otherwise it seems like a neat solution!
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With a front airdam and lowered aprox. 2 1/2" and a modified suspension (and around 280+bhp to push it), my 280ZX was stable all the way up to a speed of 249km/h (155,6mph), calculated, not "speedo".
I had to break then cause I ran out of straight, but it felt like the car could top out at somewere around 255km/h (159mph)
My friends car (280ZX) with no airdam and stock ridehight was getting nervous at around 185-190km/h (115-119mph)
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TT on an L-series is worthless for anything other then a novelty.
So getting quicker respons is worthless!?
I´ve gone from one turbo to twin on my L28, and though the respons was rather quick on my "single" installation, the twins where noticebly quicker!
The best way to feed a turbo (on a 4-stroke engine) is with the exhaust from 3 cylinders with evenly spread ignition sequence (that is 240 degrees apart).
You can achive that with (on a 6-cylinder) twin turbos or with one turbo with twin entries.
Here´s some pics of my twinturbo-arrangement:
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I've cleaned up my intake and got rid of a lot of bungs and protrusions among other things.
Also "cleaned" up the inside of the intake, by cutting the plenum in half and then weld it together whilest widening it a 1/2 inch.
Look here for picture's:
http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38685
http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38697
The car is slightly "nervous" from start-up and for a couple of minutes, but then runs really well.
I never drive it on the winter though!
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Is the wing mounted to the brackets backwards? Looks like you need to point the rear of the wing toward the front of the car. Leave the brackets on the car and turn the wing around.
Looks to me he has to make new bracket since these seem to be made for a sedan!
The wing itself seems to be pointed in the right direction.
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Yes, you will kill the water pump pretty quick!
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!
The text says it's (was) the only car that were driveable after crash test...
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I mounted the oilcooler under the IC between the framerails.
Had to modify the rails and the parts were the headlight case mounts to the chassi, but I think it was worth it!
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OK. Then why not drill the Z31 stud axle for the BMW bolt pattern? Seems like this would be a lower risk solution.
If you are determined to make your own axle then you should consider copying the Z31 one and not the 280ZX axle. The diameter of the ZX stub axle is actually smaller (30mm vs. 32mm) than the first generation 1970-78 Z cars. The Z31 stub axle starts out at a 30mm diameter but then it tapers out to a diameter of 35mm where the wheel flange is. It’s a much better design over the ZX one.
Used Z31 parts don't grow on threes in Sweden, and buying new ones ain't that cheep.
I had plans for doing a completely custom made axle with 35mm bearings and beefier splines, but than I will be forced to make a custom made joint for the CV-axle, and time is somewhat short...
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"Zhadman"
It's only a centering device for the brake disc, and it is that thin to save weight...
"zcarnut"
The Z31 pattern is 5x4,5" (5x114,3), and BMW is 5x120mm (5x4,72"), so they are not interchangeable.
This is taking some time, but the cost is almost nothing.
I will be running 8x17" wheels up front with 312x20mm brake discs,
and 9,75x17" wheels at the back with 300x10mm discs
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These stubs I´m making will cost me nothing, so I think it´s worth it!
I guess I just have to send the old ones with the drawing and let them make the new splines from the old ones.
BTW, here are some pics from the front hub and a drawing of the rear ones.
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Do a search on this forum. This was discussed in great detail within the last month. You will find detailed pictures and discussion of the spline count of the 240 stub axle , the 280 stub axle, Ross's new billet stubs and the z32 TT stubs. You will also find a great deal of interest in a higher spline count stub axle, so if you actually build one you might sell a few.
Pictures and someone telling me how many splines there is gives me nothing...
I need to know the module and/or as many measures as possible of the toots.
I searched through all (I think) the posts on "splines", and came up with nothing!
I´ll send a message to Scotty and Tim to see if they know, or maybe Ross C has the answer!?
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Does anyone know what spline standard Nissan has used on the stub axle (not sure if it´s caled stub axle, it´s the part connecting the driveshafts to the wheels, running inside the wheel bearings) of the 280ZX?
Sorry for not knowing the exact name of the part, if I had write it in Swedish I would have gotten it right, but then very few of you would have understood anything at all.
I know the number of splines and the outher diameter, but would like to know what module it is.
I am making some new hubs to fit BMW wheels and brakes.
The front hubs are already done, and the blueprints for the rear ones are done exccept for the splines.
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That is very cost effective indeed and sounds like fun, but this car will be my daily while I save up money for my swap I don't want to run nitrous as the risk of pre mature engine failure, which will set me back money wise from my swap.
Use as much NOS-hp as you would have gain on a conventional tuning and use it only on higher revs, than you wouldn't have any greater risk of engine failure...
But higher comp, better cam, header and exhaust and some porting and tuning etc would be more fun on a daily basis, (imho) but will cost you 3-4 times as much.
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Is this true?
If so what or how can you resolve this? Would the intake runners take a porting to match the ports on the head throughout or would it even be worth it?
Yes, the runners are smaller than the intake ports.
I cut my plenum in half and ported the runners all the way (from both sides) and matched them to the cyl head.
Made a noticeble differences.
Worth it? I had a friend to do the welding when I was done with the porting, so for me it was surely worth it (a couple hours work and a beer to my mate...).
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Looks like a Ferrari 330 to me. But it got some lines from the MGB GT too.
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The front flare looks very close to the Mercedes Sedan racing car front flares I've seen on websites. The rears also look familiar but I can't pinpoint from what car I've seen them on. I'll take a peek around and see if I can find anything.
RacerX
It would make it a lot more easier if I could use some existing flares as a start.
Would be great if you could find out more...
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Anyone know anything about this car?
http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3968&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
Looks like something I would like to implement on my 240-project.
I realise this is probebly a one-off, but I would like to see more pics off it.
I also realise that the car has been lowered a lot (the wheel wells sit "higher" on the body). But since my project will need new fenders, floor, rails etc. it won't be a problem.
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The Merc 4.5L injectors are low-impedance, 380cc @ 3bar. Otherwise known as Bosch '036' injectors.
Anyone know the complete Bosch number??
Found two different injectors from Bosch for the Merc 450, no one with a number incl. '036'...
One of them with a price of (approx.) $50 and the other $170 each!!
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Here´s a link to my intake:
I cut the plenum in half and smothened it out both on the outside and the inside, ported the runners, and when welding it all together, widened it half an inch + welding a plate for my 63mm BMW throttle body.
Works fine for me!
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I´ve been running BPR7ES-11 in my L28E (F54,N42) twinturbo setup.
The gap was reduced to around 1mm (.039").
Has worked very well for me, with somewere around 270 crankhp.
I´m aiming for 300+ rwhp and thinking of going to an 8 (no -11, wich by the way, stands for a gap of 1,1mm/.043")
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That looks to me like the same (same looking) BMW throttle body, that I use on my L28.
Thoe mine required some mods, like welding a plate to the plenum.
Mine also have the progressive linkage.
(My throttle body is slightly modified)
If it is the same, then it´s not a bolt-on!
New, lighter glass for our S30 2 Seater (street legal)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I might be interested in the windshield, perhaps two of them.