DiscoPotatoe
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Posts posted by DiscoPotatoe
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Finished Rotissery. Chassis is actually sitting on it already but been pushed to the side
so i can get rid of a few of the other cars that have gotten priority over the datsun.
All parts for the suspension/brake/steering conversion have been bought. Motor has been built and is sitting on an engine stand.
I belive I might Start posting pictures next month or the following to show all the work being done. Just too much to post on here often.
Have a 97 240sx thats taken the lead followed by a 91 supra, then the 78 corvette and then I'm caught up to work on the datsun again.
All i was able to complete yet far was aquiring the long and extensive parts list. and I finished building the KA24DE to hold a maximum of around 750hp probably going to stick to around 450-500. I overly built the motor. I know. But There are reasons for it. I thrash my cars.
Well The next post won't be so boring with just word's. I just don't want to put pictures up until some real progress gets underway.
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You might want to talk to Tom Harris about the coil overs. He went another route for similar setup and the coil overs were some of the nicest and most adjustable I've seen for the money...
Mike
I can't wait to get the car here to show pictures but im not doing just a coilover swap I'm doing spindles the whole entire arm's sway bar's ect. front tension rod's.
there shouldn't be a single Z suspension or drivetrain steering or brakes left what so ever when I'm done.
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I've had a 240z with a SBC 350 Conversion kit sitting in the car for a while. Going to be tearing the car completely apart. No interior in it at the moment anyways.
Repair:
Floor's Need to be redone. Thinking about redoing the entire interior floor/transmission tunnel to accept the KA transmission very tightly. with the exhaust having it's own dedicated tunnel to keep the heat off the tranny.
^this will get done wayy before any other repairs are done.
Lizard skin as my interior sound deadening / heat insulation for the floor's.
Might recess the firewall 1" when i redo the floor's.
KA24DE swap NA to keep it cheap.< that and i already have all the part's to build the KA.
Will be running 240sx clutch brake and accelerator pedals.
Full 240sx suspension Front Yes power-steering rack and everything. I am deciding between a 300zx turbo rear subframe or a 240sx subframe.
Going to be going with either MEGAN RS coil-over's or MEGAN Track Coil's.
WIll be doing a full write up on the swap not sure how long this will take.
Possible Video like mull if i can find a cheap camera
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Does anyone have a place I can get a decent cowl induction hood for a 240z? I want a max of 2-3" of cowl, no 4+"ers. The only thing I seem to find is huge pin on cowl. Anyone have any suggestions?
I have a nice fiberglass cowl I'm going to be parting with soon if you are interested let me know
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Thanks Bill, Disco
Reason and logic have prevailed over my desire to do things lazily. I'll take the motor apart and learn some things in the process. I've got the How to Rebuild a Small Block Ford by George Reid book with great color pictures so it shouldn't be that big of a learning curve. Couple of questions:
1. Assume that I take it to the machine shop and everything that I have now checks out OK. What can I safely re-use (nuts, bolts, etc.) when I take this apart and re-assemble?
2. Piston rings and bearings were mentioned. If both rings and bearings are basically new, should I replace them anyway?
Thanks in advance
Doug
Admins, feel free to move if this needs to be in the powerplant section.
Well i just cleaned up the head bolts and my bearings did seem to be in great condition still so i just reused them... all the intake bolts and stuff like that i replaced with stainless bolts just because i had them laying around for cosmetic reasons...but i could have used the originals.
The main thing you'll need to do is make sure you torque everything down to spec.
Something I've just learned to do after a while building Jap engines is to torque things down in steps like if its 80 that im supposed to torque the head down to i go 40 first doing the pattern 60 then 80. Its probably not nessesary but its just somthing ive grown accustomed to.
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You were reading right wizard, it is a rebuilt motor, not one just pulled out of a car. I just don't know exactly what was done to it besides that it was bored over 0.040.
The more I've been looking at the motor, the more I think that I should be able to just take the heads off, disassemble them and have them cleaned. At that point I would be able to see the cylinders and the top of the pistons and clean with comp. air appropriately. The bottom end looks fine (no surface rust) and still has a ton of assembly lube from the rebuild. If I take the heads off and the cylinder walls and deck don't look peachy then I'll disassemble and bring the block, etc. to the machinist.
Sound like a plan, or should I reconsider not taking it all apart?
Thanks for the responses.
well if i were you id do like i just did to an engine i bought that was "rebuilt"
I bought a complete gasket set
Took EVERYTHING APART labeled all the parts the engine i was supposed to be getting was supposed to be bored .020 over come to find out it was bored .040 over
Checked all the bearings on the crank pulled and checked all the lobes on the camshaft and 1 was severely worn down so i replaced the cam and bought a complete lifter set.
I actually sand blasted my engine since it had 5 different coats of paint on it ended up using the duplicolor 1200 degree primer and black paint
Used a strait edge to check the trueness of the heads and block surfaces luckily they were completely flat.
reassembled everything with assembly lube and luca's
Lapped the valves and put the heads all together.
I recomend you going over the block yourself because you never know what someone actually sold you unless you see it for yourself... i know a few people who buy engines from advance auto and 1-3 pistons are different bores its their " bandage job "
I also ended up replacing the oil pump just to protect my investment. i picked my engine up for 150 bucks invested a minimal 900 and this engine is bassically rebuilt all over again with a (new timing chain, cam , lifters , springs and retainers) bought as a kit.
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OT: Your screen name and location appear to be at odds with each other.
Seriously? Or is that just some sly ironic trickery?
lol it does seem to be a little ironic
Then again over there skylines are like the mustangs of the usa same thing with Silvia's
or he just used the name to start some feedback since his sig sends you to a skyline page ...
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Could you please PM me a few pictures of the Air Dam.
Also what is the advantage of going with urethane over fiberglass?
you can bump a parking curb and avoid cracking your fiberglass... or worse yet putting a hole in it...
trade off is its harder to repair if you do break it its not as easy to fix as fiberglass
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Yeah im going to see about getting the rims from diamond in 17s since i plan on going with a 300zx tt setup in the front with the bigger 350z track rotors
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I don't think the McKinney pan (or any RB20/RB25 pan) will work for you on the RB26 block unless you plan on doing more mods to it.
i guess id be going rb25 route then
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yeah im going to be waiting on this oil pan as long as it doesn't cost too much i will be buying one and my dream of rb26 swapping my 260 z will come true
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yeah id have to say a pinstripe would look good as well but id say
but yea just 220 to really dig in to the bumper then 400 to smooth it out for paint
followed by prep spray and paint and you should be great
and i really like your rims what are they and what size offset if you know it?
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car does pop in the sun congrats on a great paint job.
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car came out looking really nice congratz id say the f bumper would look good painted in the primer that's on the top of the car. my personal opinion bringing both color schemes together
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thats a nice 3 tone paint job at least from what it looks like but i dont think i could have went silver along the bottom unless thats just a rock chip prevention paint. either way
CAME out AWSOME show pics after its buffed up i think you just inspired me.
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i got the front bumper and air dam no longer needed thanks guys
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yeah im really not looking to spend much i could care less how it looks just as it serves the purpose of being a front bumper id prefer free but i can pay up to like 50-75
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message doublexl240z he has one i was gonna get it but i dont think ill have the money in time and hes in orlando he wants 50 bucks
i emailed him waiting on a reply for pictures still looking for a cheap airdam
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Looking for a front bumper off a 240z in any condition just supplie pictures with responces if its really messed up i still might want it completly dependant on price.
Also looking for a Front air dam like a Xenon or MSA urethane style but open to other styles message me back or reply here with pictures so i can see whats out there.
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Kaustav, one of my 7 team members, filmed 3 passes at this event! Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3gxQpe4S68[/url]
Team Midnight Boba and Screaming Yellow Zonkers.
The yellow bug team (Zonkers) has some special engine, i dunno how they got it for under a $1000. oh well. we still beat them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lf9-U9Yeae4[/url]
Thunderbox (Corolla) and Cone Killers (Mustang 5.0 with wet 200 shot)!
Some of our $1,000 competition.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATt6r4geGJY[/url]
Zonkers and Boba, (seems like there was tree trouble with the yellow bug's lane, so it wasn't a head-to-head unfortunately)
We got a 8.0 second 1/8th mile pass at 96mph. Pretty good for 205mm street tires.Supposedly 12.55 seconds with a calculator if it was a 1/4 mile. But i know its got potential high 7's 1/8th.
The 1/8th mile is not easy! if you screw up the launch even a little, you are doomed for a slow time. takes alot of skill and no room for catch up.
And Finally...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZD3Cz6prfXI[/url]
Marching Idiots!
Links aren't working mabe... the url thing is in the way...
Wont work on my comp
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I've decided to buy mine from a vendor here on HybridZ.
So did you decide to buy it?
If you did hows the fitment?
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Update? im interested to see how things are turning out...
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I agree , I had a harbor freight mig and tig worst investment i ever made. I ended up selling both.
Now am looking for a hobart handler 187 and a millermatic 140 tig im going to do things right this time so i dont have to buy another welder...
I managed to find the tig welder and im picking it up tomorow, so now its back to craigslist to find a good deal on the mig. problem with hobart is... no one sells them... its like they buy them and never sell them the ones i see for sale are all 5-15 years old... no one really selling a new one... but im guessing that goes to show how much the people who buy them like them...
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Not much at all...this is how I corner balanced my SX...
Yes its a bathroom scale......
It takes a while but it works.Nice install!
I'd have to say that's defiantly interesting how you did it... I'd think that the corner balance would be off a little bit because the weight would be sitting on the other side's piece of wood... But either way.
That's pretty nice.
We got a 8.0 second 1/8th mile pass at 96mph. Pretty good for 205mm street tires.
It takes a while but it works.
1971 Datsun 240z resto.project [vids/pics]
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Mull was my original inspiration to go with a 240sx full suspension in my 240z widebody.
Since the inspiration I bought a 71 240z and a 95 240sx gutted the suspension drivetrain out of the 240sx and have just been waiting to start the project.
By next month it should be done with many pictures of the build.
Mull you got some really good taste Good luck on your build maybe we will see who will finish first ?