FiveSeventyZee

thanks. I picked one up today.

Just as the title says, I'm after the tach from a 280z, must be working. Let me know how much you're looking for. Reply here, pm or email me at jgong9609@gmail.com Thanks 570\ edit: I'm in Marin county CA, I prefer dealing locally as I've had problems with paypal in the past and I tend to no longer use it (only if necessary). So preferably someone local to the SF bay area

I went ahead and ordered a stage one spec. thanks pparaska for the input

yeah, thats WAY more power than i forsee my engine making anytime soon. Like I said before, I'm aiming to be between 250 and 400 for both HP and torque. So the way I'm seeing this is that spec clutches are definitely good, and based off my goals I really have no need for anything more than stage one. Would this be a better route than the centerforce? has anyone used it?

how much power are you making though because the stage one is for 450 ft lbs or something. the 2+ is like 600 something. mines gonna be in the 300's

I'm replacing the clutch on my 240 and I can't really figure out from the online stores descriptions which is better for me. I have a 240z with an L98 5.7L out of an 89 camaro. stock other than intake manifold, carbed and exhaust. I'm looking for a streetable clutch but it's not a daily driver so I'm not real worried about it being too stiff. the funny thing is even on the centerforce website I cannot figure out which of their two clutches is better. at this point I'm pretty much down to centerforce and spec. I just don't know which part suits my needs best. any input/experience is appreciated

Car: 72 datsun 240z with a chevy 350 (L98) from an 89 camaro with a WC T5 in it. the clutch isn't working at all, the pedal won't go down. the hydraulics are new and in working order. I just installed them. there is something binding in either the fork, throwout bearing or pressure plate. I have tried both the long type throwout bearing that goes with the Borg and beck type pressure plate and the short one with no difference between the two. the fork seems to have slop in it with everything installed. with it seated on the ball stud the fork can still move the TOB away from the pressure plate fingers. which is why I pulled the bellhousing off to find that the fingers on the pressure plate can be pulled out. this seems wrong to me but I'm not sure so here's a bid to show what I'm talking about. does this mean my pressure plate is bad? or is this normal on Borg and Becks? http://www.youtube.com/user/Jgong570#p/a/u/0/pY88Dc8LIYM

Its been a while and I haven't had time to work on the car however I have had some time to do some research about what clutch parts work together to try to see if any of my parts don't and I noticed on summit's website when looking for throwout bearings one of the options to narrow the search is the pressure plate type. I do remember that my pressure plate is the kind with 3 wide fingers rather than the usual diaphragm style deal. Am I supposed to have a special throwout bearing for that style pressure plate? How thick/tall should the throwout bearing be? I know there are 2 different ones that GM used... thanks to anyone who can help

if i were to pull it apart what exactly might i be looking for? I did notice that where the pressure plate fingers meet the housing there were scratches and scoring that i thought might cause them to bind up. That's the only reason why I mentioned the fingers getting jammed. Could that scoring there cause the pressure plate to get stuck?

okay well i thought it might have been moving beyond its normal travel because i had the transmission pulled back about 2 inches so i just went on with my slave and master replacement anyways. I got the new slave and master in and bled today and the fork doesnt flop around like it did before. it stays in its place and the clutch is engaged with the flywheel. however when i press the pedal to disengage the transmission it'll move for a bout an inch of pedal travel before it gets incredibly stiff so much that if i force the pedal down the firewall moves. this is how it all felt before i installed the new hydraulics and now im thinking either i have a broken pressure plate and the fingers are jammed or something or the throwout bearing is the thin type and its supposed to be the thicker one. does that sound right to anyone? is there any way i can test? should i be able to push in the pressure plate fingers with my hands?

so, seeing as mine flops forward and back and stays in whatever position you left it in that would mean i need a new pressure plate?

I've been working on setting up my clutch with a Wilwood master and slave cylinder combo but I just realized after taking the old slave off that the clutch fork just moves back and forth with no resistance. shouldn't it have tension pulling it towards the engine? this is on a t5 with a chevy 350. I have never driven the car as I bought it as a project in non running condition

okay thanks, that helps me out as I really wasn't looking forward to paying $10 shipping on a $10 bottle of brake fluid.

I just got my wilwood parts in the mail and in the instruction manual for the wilwood slave it says to use wilwoowd high temp 570 fluid or wilwood EXP 600 fluid. Is this really necessary for the clutch parts? because those fluids are both described as high performance brake fluids designed to dissipate heat and avoid boiling and whatnot. which are all good and necessary for brake components on a racetrack but are they really necessary for the clutch? especially on a street car. can I just use regular DOT 3 brake fluid?

I've come across a set of 240z seats that are exactly what you seem to be describing. They are black cloth on the fronts and black vynil on the back and sides of the bottom. Are these really original? because the guy says they are original from a 240. And Tyler please do post pics of yours. I would like to see what they look like in car with a good clear picture.